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Old 06-25-2022, 02:14 PM   #1121
RedReplicant
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Irace86.2.0 View Post
If anyone wants to take a picture of the inside of their welds, I could tell if this was a penetration problem or a sugaring problem from not back-purging. The latter is a common shortcut.
Unfortunately, this is the only picture I took while I had it apart, and it was after ceramic coating.



Seems like no back purge to me
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Old 06-25-2022, 02:50 PM   #1122
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Iíve been running a deatschwerks fuel damper. Fairly simple piece but it works and was around $50.
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Old 06-25-2022, 03:32 PM   #1123
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Iíve been running a deatschwerks fuel damper. Fairly simple piece but it works and was around $50.
Do you know which one I would need to ge? I see -8 or 3/8in...
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Old 06-25-2022, 03:55 PM   #1124
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Do you know which one I would need to ge? I see -8 or 3/8in...
6-FPD-8AN was the part number. It should be -8.
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Old 06-25-2022, 09:36 PM   #1125
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Originally Posted by RedReplicant View Post
Unfortunately, this is the only picture I took while I had it apart, and it was after ceramic coating.



Seems like no back purge to me
Is that at a lap joint or just a butt joint? If it is a butt joint then the weld missed the joint, as the end of the pipe is still visible, but if it is a lap joint then it isn't bad, but you are right that it does look like there was no back purging. While there was penetration, even with the ceramic coating covering the welds, the welds look a little round and puffy like there was porosity. That is probably why we are seeing failures.

There are two ways to protect the backside of the welds. One is to back purge, which would require a separate tank or a dual flow setup, and it requires the appropriate plugs to run a hose to one side. This is more expensive and takes more time. The second way, which is what I have done, is you can buy Solar Flux or similar products and mix the powder with methanol. You paint the inside with the product, let it dry, and it will burn off with the welding process and displace the oxygen, so it can't react. It is cheap, fast, and it is pretty easy to clean up, so there is really no excuse not to protect the backside of the welds.

https://soulpp.com/2019/09/17/tech-t...-what-and-why/
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Old 06-27-2022, 04:02 PM   #1126
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Has anyone else developed any gear grind or issues getting into gear since the swap? Initially I figured maybe I've just abused the Trans too much over the years. I bought the car new in 2017, and have only put 34k miles on it. During those initial 30k miles with the fa20 I never had a single issue with the trans, but in these last 4k miles I have an issue getting into 2nd gear quite often. Only at redline though, if I shift at 7k it seems to be fine. I'm starting to wonder if this Trans just doesn't like 8500rpm shifts. But it doesn't seem to have an issue in any other gear, so it could just be that I hurt that Trans at some point and it's starting to be more noticeable.
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Old 06-27-2022, 11:55 PM   #1127
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I donít have any issues. I donít know if you need to adjust the clutch pedal, but outside of that, I canít think of anything else it could be. I donít know if the rpms matter.
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Old 06-28-2022, 07:54 AM   #1128
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Good thinking on the clutch pedal adjustment. I've had it off just a little on my previous FRS and it makes gear entry a little crunchy. No issues as of right now though.
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