Engine Temps.

[dholloway543]

I'm mostly just curious but ive been running 12 psi of boost and my engine has been hitting a toasty [100C - 110C] or [212F - 230F] when its [100F or 37.7C] outside. So I purchased and installed a mishimoto dual thickness radiator. Now i notice that i can drive and boost all I want and keep my temps at max [95C or 203F] accept if I have the AC on. It jumped to 110C again.


That made me wonder how much of a cooling loss the AC radiator accounts for on other peoples cars.


Side note, how are you getting cold air to your intake. Now the radiator has helped cool the engine temps but the IAT has gone up. Every solution is a new problem. I was thinking of getting louvers but im not sure yet. Its going to drive normal in the summer and too cold in the winter.

[86TOYO2k17]

I live in WA much colder winters than San Diego, not nearly as hot summer’s though. But still 80-90s for a stretch. My temps are always very good. Today was 85f i went hooning around for a good 30mins hitting boost/doing pulls 30+ times pretty much every chance i got. 12.5-13psi boost. Coolant never went over 199F, oil never over 215F. Was using ecutek bluetooth to monitor everything so couldn’t monitor my trans temps like I normally do but those eventually get the hottest but takes a while still never seen 230s for that though.

Anyways my cooling solutions
Mishimoto radiator
Mishimoto fan shroud
Oil cooler with 198F thermostat (intentionally setup to have little intake airflow but has good exhaust flow)
Trans cooler with 180F thermostat (intentionally setup to have little intake airflow but has good exhaust flow)
Water meth injection + I run E40-45
Hood vents
Hood scoop
Beatrush Vented under tray/skid plate
Perrin cold air intake fully gold tape heat wrapped entire intake up to TB
I got beatrush front crash bar mostly for weight, but it seemed to have dropped IATs a little as well.
I still use oem trans heat exchanger to warm trans up quicker
And i also use the “oem forestor heat exchanger” to warm my oil temps up quicker.

I have designed/chosen my setup to still be able to warm my oil up in 30F weather in a reasonable amount of time since my commute is only 10-12mins mostly freeway. But also handle 30+ min hooning session in 90F summer weather with no problems. I would redesign my oil/trans cooler intake airflow if i wanted to track it as this is probably not 100% up to task at least to my standards but I don’t track for now. For now my goal is the ultimate DD which has pretty much been achieved especially from a temperature standpoint.

[CSG Mike]

Dump that Mishimoto radiator for something quality.

Add hood vents, and make sure you don't have a compromised head gasket.

[Chuckls]

My coolant temps never exceed 192*. Verus Radiator. Nuff said!

[sroby]

CSG Mike what hood vents do you recommend sir. As well I hate to bring up an old thread but I’m studying this pretty hard. Here it goes. My son just took delivery of a 2020 wrx Sti package but not the Sti. It has the factory water oil cooler that I’ve had on my 2015 Frs for 5 years. I’m oem complete down to the actual hard pipes. I see where Perrin has the oil cooler kit in addition to use on the oem Subie cooler for sale as well, indicating the oem aids in heating up the oil slightly quicker. Then the air to oil cooler thermostat opens at 185 or 195 allowing the oil to be maintained at a more constant lower temp across the entire engine. I’ve seen pics but never in person or talked with any body who is running this set up. I live north of ATL and right now are summers are brutal. We’ve had 14 days of 90 plus degrees and heat indexes of 100 degrees today of which was 102 along with 95 to 98 degrees of humidity. Example right now at 10:44 we pm we are at 89 degrees just had a thunderstorm and humidity is holding at 79 percent.
As I plan for purchasing boost on Black Friday, going turbo coming from my previous sprintex supercharger. I’m liking the idea of compound oil cooling as the WRX as they environment I’m currently living with plans in less than 2 years to move to Fla.
What’s your thinking on this and is a decent thermostatically controlled unit something you all offer that would work. Even if I had to fab up components. I value your and Zachs input plsr

[86TOYO2k17]

Originally Posted by sroby

. I see where Perrin has the oil cooler kit in addition to use on the oem Subie cooler for sale as well, indicating the oem aids in heating up the oil slightly quicker. Then the air to oil cooler thermostat opens at 185 or 195 allowing the oil to be maintained at a more constant lower temp across the entire engine.

Been running this for 2 yrs no issues. Helps heat oil up a good bit faster especially when the oil and coolant are at a large difference in temps.
Mocal thermostat oil sandwich plate with 198f thermostat on top of oem forester heat exchanger. Works perfectly fine.

The only real draw back which has been 100% non issue for me. But it does add another point of possible failure, and once the oil heats up hotter then the coolant it puts more stress on the radiator/coolant system.

[sroby]

86toyo2k17, thx so much bud , I appreciate it. If you don’t mind I’d like to pm you plsir.

[rixter145]

Originally Posted by 86TOYO2k17

I live in WA much colder winters than San Diego, not nearly as hot summer’s though. But still 80-90s for a stretch. My temps are always very good. Today was 85f i went hooning around for a good 30mins hitting boost/doing pulls 30+ times pretty much every chance i got. 12.5-13psi boost. Coolant never went over 199F, oil never over 215F. Was using ecutek bluetooth to monitor everything so couldn’t monitor my trans temps like I normally do but those eventually get the hottest but takes a while still never seen 230s for that though.

Anyways my cooling solutions
Mishimoto radiator
Mishimoto fan shroud
Oil cooler with 198F thermostat (intentionally setup to have little intake airflow but has good exhaust flow)
Trans cooler with 180F thermostat (intentionally setup to have little intake airflow but has good exhaust flow)
Water meth injection + I run E40-45
Hood vents
Hood scoop
Beatrush Vented under tray/skid plate
Perrin cold air intake fully gold tape heat wrapped entire intake up to TB
I got beatrush front crash bar mostly for weight, but it seemed to have dropped IATs a little as well.
I still use oem trans heat exchanger to warm trans up quicker
And i also use the “oem forestor heat exchanger” to warm my oil temps up quicker.

I have designed/chosen my setup to still be able to warm my oil up in 30F weather in a reasonable amount of time since my commute is only 10-12mins mostly freeway. But also handle 30+ min hooning session in 90F summer weather with no problems. I would redesign my oil/trans cooler intake airflow if i wanted to track it as this is probably not 100% up to task at least to my standards but I don’t track for now. For now my goal is the ultimate DD which has pretty much been achieved especially from a temperature standpoint.

What hood vents are you running? Do you have rain guards?

[86TOYO2k17]

Originally Posted by rixter145

What hood vents are you running? Do you have rain guards?

Seibon FA-Style Carbon Fiber Hood

no rain guards, not really needed. zero issues so far even in the rainy city.

[rixter145]

Originally Posted by 86TOYO2k17

Seibon FA-Style Carbon Fiber Hood

no rain guards, not really needed. zero issues so far even in the rainy city.

Nice. I have concerns because I don't want to thermal shock my turbo

Sent from my H8314 using Tapatalk

[86TOYO2k17]

Originally Posted by rixter145

Nice. I have concerns because I don't want to thermal shock my turbo

Sent from my H8314 using Tapatalk

When you are moving not much rain will be getting into the engine bay through the hood vents probably more from the front grille. the angle of the vents and the airflow coming in from the front bumper and then out the vents helps keep rain drops from going in when moving. Also radiant heat in the engine bay tiny drops that do get in evaporate quickly.. if i drive in the rain and pop my hood in the garage its really not wet at all. And the location of the vents aren’t directly over hot components to “thermal shock” I wouldn’t really be too concerned unless you parked outside 24/7.

[rixter145]

Originally Posted by 86TOYO2k17

When you are moving not much rain will be getting into the engine bay through the hood vents probably more from the front grille. the angle of the vents and the airflow coming in from the front bumper and then out the vents helps keep rain drops from going in when moving. Also radiant heat in the engine bay tiny drops that do get in evaporate quickly.. if i drive in the rain and pop my hood in the garage its really not wet at all. And the location of the vents aren’t directly over hot components to “thermal shock” I wouldn’t really be too concerned unless you parked outside 24/7.

I might park outside from time to time. No matter, I will look into marsh fabbing up some block off plate with their hood. It's a gorgeous one with a big extractor above the radiator

[jflogerzi]

Originally Posted by 86TOYO2k17

Seibon FA-Style Carbon Fiber Hood

no rain guards, not really needed. zero issues so far even in the rainy city.

Pictures? I am debating between a CF hood or just adding vents to the OEM one.

[86TOYO2k17]

Originally Posted by jflogerzi

Pictures? I am debating between a CF hood or just adding vents to the OEM one.

Took a minute to align properly. But has better than OEM fitment, perfect lines/gapping by fenders.