TorqAmp 2017 Toyota 86 install

[Matt@Cosworth]

are there any mass airflow figures / compressor maps for the Torqueamp?

can't see any on their site
looks like it may run out of flow about the 250g/sec mark looking at the other engines that are tested

[BlOody_BoOger]

Originally Posted by Matt@Cosworth

are there any mass airflow figures / compressor maps for the Torqueamp?



can't see any on their site

looks like it may run out of flow about the 250g/sec mark looking at the other engines that are tested

you should email the company jelke is pretty good at replying. I've had full conversation with him back and forth on my build. And he is very insightful and willing to help.

Sent from my GM1915 using Tapatalk

[lukeman_3000]

Originally Posted by Notmichael9

Hey FT86!!

I am starting a new project to install a Torqamp on my 2017 Toyota 86 auto.

It has catless headers, catless downpipe, and Invidia Q600.

I have two vids out so far, as it will take a long time to get the Torqamp. I am also going to be installing it with Torqamps control box to have better control over it.

Have a look!

Hey man, what ever happened with your TorqAmp install? It's been like 6 months since the last replay and nearly a year since your original post. I was considering buying one for my Kia Optima and am really curious how it's working for you.

[TorontoB]

Any updates?

[LimitedSlip]

Just any FYI:

https://torqamp.com

[mrg666]

Originally Posted by LimitedSlip

Just any FYI:

https://torqamp.com

Anybody interested can check that website. You are trying to encourage others on something you are not sure for yourself. When I recommend to go get a real supercharger, there is immediate reaction from so-called enthusiasts who wants others to try first. Isn't there a leader who can lead the way and show others how it works? Or you guys will keep hiding behind each other and pushing them forward?

[86TOYO2k17]

There is already an electric supercharger, phantom supercharger. The data and results are posted all over. It definitely works but don’t expect Full blown FI power. You’ll get FI low/mid range torque but slightly above NA top end.

Now from what i can gather torquAmp should make about .5-1psi more across the entire powerband vs the phantom supercharger, exact same powerband torque curve only slightly better. The other difference it looks to come with everything needed as a full self contained unit, phantom needed 2 extra (3 total) batteries to be used. Overall the torque amp Is basically the final fully polished version of what phantom should have become.

The idea and concept has already been proven with phantom. Look up those results add about 3% across the powerband, look at the price of the torque amp and what’s involved in installl (looks much simpler than any real FI setup) and decide if it’s worth it.

No need to wait on anyone else to do first it’s not really groundbreaking. If you’re interested just do it.

[WNDSRFR]

At almost $3,000 it's just too expensive IMO.
I got my Phantom ESC back in the day for I think it was $1200 which I think is well worth it. But more than twice the price for much less than twice the performance to me just isn't worth it.
I'd get a conventional supercharger instead.
But I would definitely get some sort of FI.

[86TOYO2k17]

Originally Posted by WNDSRFR

At almost $3,000 it's just too expensive IMO.
I got my Phantom ESC back in the day for I think it was $1200 which I think is well worth it. But more than twice the price for much less than twice the performance to me just isn't worth it.
I'd get a conventional supercharger instead.
But I would definitely get some sort of FI.

You can buy anything at any price used.

Wasn’t phantom v3 like $2,500 new and then you needed dump batteries so it ended up being $2800+ ?

And now i see tons of the phantoms popping up with failures and issues but the guy who made them is MIA so they’re all paper weights now?

$3,000 for the performance it has compared to a traditional FI kit from a power to price stand point might seem a little steep although not outlandish.

But once you factor in all the supporting mods needed with a traditional FI kit the power to price ratio isn’t really far off.

The torque amp could be installed on an otherwise stock vehicle or added on to a FBO + E85 setup with no other supporting mods like catch cans, oil coolers etc.. needed.

I think it’s a reasonably priced product that fills a gap between NA and full FI. It’s easy to install and quick to remove in a pinch.

[mrg666]

For a standalone FI application, I think the Control Box is a must. The on/off switch can be cheap but getting a sudden full boost after a threshold does not sound like a good driving experience. I would prefer the boost to be proportional to throttle level for a consistent driving experience. I also don't know how long the power box can sustain the full boost. It wouldn't be fun to wait for the next boost available after each charge. Though, I would think the battery charge will be a problem if the compressor runs continuously proportional to throttle level. And, when charge is not available for boost or compressor is waiting for switch to turn on, there should be a bypass valve so that natural air flow is not restricted by the dysfunctional compressor. If the price comes closer to $4000 with tuning and cost of Control Box, Edelbrock or Jackson Racing packages are definitely better deals. This is more suitable for working as a supplement in sync with turbo to eliminate the boost lag instead of a stand-alone FI solution.

[86TOYO2k17]

Originally Posted by mrg666

For a standalone FI application, I think the Control Box is a must. The on/off switch can be cheap but getting a sudden full boost after a threshold does not sound like a good driving experience. I would prefer the boost to be proportional to throttle level for a consistent driving experience. I also don't know how long the power box can sustain the full boost. It wouldn't be fun to wait for the next boost available after each charge. Though, I would think the battery charge will be a problem if the compressor runs continuously proportional to throttle level. And, when charge is not available for boost or compressor is waiting for switch to turn on, there should be a bypass valve so that natural air flow is not restricted by the dysfunctional compressor. If the price comes closer to $4000 with tuning and cost of Control Box, Edelbrock or Jackson Racing packages are definitely better deals. This is more suitable for working as a supplement in sync with turbo to eliminate the boost lag instead of a stand-alone FI solution.

The complete kit + control box is $3,000. The bypass is another $200 not really needed though it’s more for twin charging or larger engines. On the FA20 its not a restriction at WOT even at redline. It could be useful in off boost scenarios but with the control box it would be a non issue I think, similar to what phantom did to combat this.

Charge capacity and recharge rate I can’t find much info on that would be my main concern. The phantoms seemed to make peak numbers for about 25-30sec and IIRC recharged at a 2:1 rate so 30sec use 60sec recharge. Not a good option for the track, but autox, DD, back roads should be good. Assuming the torqueamp has similar charge capacity and recharge rate. Could reach out to them and find out for sure.

With a tune yeah about $4,000. The phantoms and this kit actually make more low/mid/peak torque than the JRSC with normal pulley obviously JRSC makes way more top end, and has pulley options / larger SC unit option. But add in tuning to that, and then if you read the 137 different recommended FI supporting mod threads your looking at closer to $7,000 for a decent supercharger setup.

Then add in install time/difficulty the torque amp may be a lot easier for a beginner DIYer vs paying $1,000 for supercharger install (non factor for some but big factor for plenty). so it could quickly become a $4000 vs $8000 comparison.
And then ease and time to remove kit if you wanted to go back to stock for warranty work or part out later. If you paid $1k for install probably $1k for uninstall too.

There’s also a lot of people who are too scared and don’t want to take on the risk of a real FI setup so they stay NA, but maybe would be willing to take on the risk of this kit if they just wanted another 5-10% top end and some mid range. Seems a little pointless to do real FI for only 220whp. This could be a good cheaper alternative for hitting that goal. I believe you can turn the boost down with torqueamps controller so you could turn down mid range a little if that torque hit down low was too risky/scary for you and just do like 3psi peak tapering off to 2psi at redline. Would save the battery charge too and still add a good 10% across the entire powerband. Remember this kit generates no parasitic loss and no real heat so each psi adds a lot of power, and no lag from intercooler piping etc.

When really broken down, doing as fair of comparison as possible I think it can make sense for a lot of people. Mainly those only wanting another 10% ontop of a FBO NA setup.

[mrg666]

I agree that everyone's interests can be different and there seems to be some appeal for some drivers.

A couple things I need to add though. My modding experience was not such a challenging one.
- I installed the JRSC myself in one day and it wasn't hard at all. Nothing drilled or cut, I can just go back to stock with a single day's work. (I might have lost some parts since never thought about going back to stock)
- The parasitic power draw of the compressor is only significant at high rpm. Normal driving at low rpm does not even change the mpg.
- I have only added an oil cooler (JR dual radiator) for supporting mod. I have installed that myself too without any cutting/drilling. So cost wasn't high.
- Finally, it has been 40K miles, 4 years now. The only problem was valve springs replacement which is a common problem regardless FI.

[86TOYO2k17]

Originally Posted by mrg666

I agree that everyone's interests can be different and there seems to be some appeal for some drivers.

A couple things I need to add though. My modding experience was not such a challenging one.
- I installed the JRSC myself in one day and it wasn't hard at all. Nothing drilled or cut, I can just go back to stock with a single day's work. (I might have lost some parts since never thought about going back to stock)
- The parasitic power draw of the compressor is only significant at high rpm. Normal driving at low rpm does not even change the mpg.
- I have only added an oil cooler (JR dual radiator) for supporting mod. I have installed that myself too without any cutting/drilling. So cost wasn't high.
- Finally, it has been 40K miles, 4 years now. The only problem was valve springs replacement which is a common problem regardless FI.

It might be a smaller more niche market but i think it could be a good stop gap between NA and FI.

I installed all my mods including my sprintex myself wasn’t too hard, and I encouraged anyone to try and install themselves, but many people aren’t like us in having the ability to do, possibly from time, tools, place, or knowledge.

Real FI setup obviously made more sense to us than this kit does, but we are willing to take the risk and do the work our selves to offset cost and it gives me at least peace of mind knowing it was done right and I can fix it myself later if something goes wrong.

Parasitic draw was not in reference to MPG but power per psi. 10hp per psi is a rough generalization, a turbo will have 1hp parasitic loss per 1 psi from heat/back pressure so 9-1, a SC will have 3hp loss per 1 psi from spinning the blower so 7-1. This kit should have zero loss. also no intercooler and piping so faster response and no additional pressure drop from the intercooler like those other kits have reducing efficiency. So even only 2 psi top end could add a decent amount of power. Also weight (I’m assuming this is pretty light in comparison) and weight placement if the battery box was in the trunk would be an additional advantage. Could take a solid NA 200whp setup to 220whp easily and push it over the top.

Personally like i said i think a true FI setup is better but we both know a lot of people are too scared to touch FI. this shouldn’t really add much risk as it’s not a ton of added power to the crank as it’s a very efficient way of making a little bit more power. Could be that little extra an NA setup was looking for.

[TorontoB]

If it is 5 psi that’s 50-55 horsepower, if you are going to do all modes on car that are not FI car could potentially do 200whp plus’s this addition of 50-55 it is in the sweet spot of 300 whp were connecting rods become their own objective and not engines. I messaged torque amp 3 days ago.