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Old 08-10-2019, 03:03 AM   #1
Impureclient
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Any plumbers in here?

So it's the plumbing phase on my research now. I am limited in space 160 sq ft. I have narrowed it down to these two for hot water heaters:

Tankless/3.7GPM/Size: 17.5"x13.5"x5.5"/Warranty: 7 years against leakage and 2 years parts
https://www.homedepot.com/p/ATMOR-Th...18TP/300164325


Stainless Steel Tanked/Size: 19.5"x19.5"x29"/Warranty: 10 year against leakage and 6 year on parts
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Westingh...0N10/305554770

This is a shower/sink for bathroom, sink in kitchen and a hookup for washer. With a low flow for the shower, sink running and even doing the laundry all at the same time, that tankless will keep up. The 20 gallon should be OK too with no marathon showers happening.
So does it just come down to the size and warranty? Is there any reason not to go tankless? Several people have said parts are harder to get for tankless and in a pinch a tankless part(most likely heat element) is just a quick stop at a home improvement store.
I also see the tanked one has a Uniform Energy Factor of .92 which is high. All the tankless one says is "Save up to 50% on electric bills compared to a traditional tank water heater".

I have allotted for the tanked one to fit in there fine but the tankless one gives me a lot of extra space to work with. So which way to go?

Also just found this: https://www.rinnai.us/faq/tankless-w...s-water-heater
According to that if initial costs are the same and they are for the ones I chose, the tankless is definitely better. The warranty doesn't indicate that though.
It even says in that site that the tankless will outlast the tanked one "almost twice as long in some cases".

Last edited by Impureclient; 08-10-2019 at 03:17 AM.
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Old 08-10-2019, 05:05 PM   #2
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I'd go with the lightest, most space saving one.


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Old 08-10-2019, 05:08 PM   #3
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Id for for the one easiest to get repair parts for and work on with lower expense over time


am not a plumber though, just a janitor
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Old 08-10-2019, 07:00 PM   #4
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i've got nothing to really add, i just found this humorous.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rinnai webpage
You could be “output challenged” if maximum useage was calculated incorrectly. Fortunately, we have tools to help you and your installation professional choose the right Rinnai unit for you, avoiding this issue.

For an exact installation and unit price, click here to find a licensed dealer in your area.
"yeah, we've got tools to help, but you can't use them!"

if i didn't know better, these companies are starting to make building a house sound like rocket surgery!
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Old 08-10-2019, 08:34 PM   #5
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Well I'm no plumber but I did replace my water heater not too long aso.
I was looking at a tankless unit but the amount to get the electrican to wire up was more than what I thought I would save.

I just ended up getting a bigger traditional water heater. Super simple to install even played with copper tubbing soldering. Only problem I encountered was removing the old unit. Cause it still had water in it.

So that's something to think about the extra cost with a tank less water heater. Unless you got an electrician buddy.
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Old 08-10-2019, 08:49 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.ac View Post
Well I'm no plumber but I did replace my water heater not too long aso.
I was looking at a tankless unit but the amount to get the electrican to wire up was more than what I thought I would save.

I just ended up getting a bigger traditional water heater. Super simple to install even played with copper tubbing soldering. Only problem I encountered was removing the old unit. Cause it still had water in it.

So that's something to think about the extra cost with a tank less water heater. Unless you got an electrician buddy.
Welp, for next time, there is a valve up on top that shuts off the water to the tank - that will make soldering the copper tubing much easier - you don't have to work as fast. Then there is a valve at the bottom of the tank that drains it - that makes it much lighter and easier to move. If you don't shut off the power to the unit, only touch one wire at a time - and don't be standing in the water that is all over the floor from draining the tank. Oh yes, if your hot water heater is gas, and you don't turn off the gas, make the switch really fast and if you get light headed, go outside till your head clears and don't light up a cigarette with an open flame.

Your welcome.




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Old 08-10-2019, 08:54 PM   #7
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3.7gpm for 160 sq feet? LOL! 2.5 GPM is PLENTY.
https://www.amazon.com/Ecosmart-ECO-...64&s=hi&sr=1-1
I've installed a tankless propane. I went with Rinnai because it was recommended.
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Old 08-10-2019, 11:24 PM   #8
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Thanks for the responses. I like that Ecosmart brand one that @jsimon7777 found there. The Ecosmart ECO 18 looks like it would be OK in my current climate zone doing up to 3.2 gpm but,
in two zones up and most likely where this might end up it gets 2.6gpm. That still looks good and it has a lifetime warranty which is even better than the two I originally looked into. If it was staying
in FL then I'd probably drop to the EcoSmart ECO 11 but I want to be safe rather than sorry. At two zones up the ECO 11 only is putting out 1.9 gpm while a regular shower head uses 2.1.
I'd have to use a low flow on there to bring it back to 1.5pgm but even then, if that low flow shower is being used and somebody uses a faucet, it's struggling. So, ECO 18 it is. Thanks to all the Marios and Luigis!
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Old 08-10-2019, 11:48 PM   #9
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In a tiny house, when one person uses the shower, the other doesn't use the sink.
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Old 08-11-2019, 03:41 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsimon7777 View Post
In a tiny house, when one person uses the shower, the other doesn't use the sink.
Are you saying they can't because of the smaller water heaters normally used not being able to keep up or it's just tiny house etiquette to not do so?
With that ECO18 one, that should take care of two people simultaneously using the hot water even in a colder climate(N.C.) according to the flow and temperatures.
At least based on this chart:
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Old 08-11-2019, 01:55 PM   #11
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house etiquette.
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Old 08-11-2019, 03:02 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.ac View Post
I was looking at a tankless unit but the amount to get the electrican to wire up was more than what I thought I would save..
We've had a tankless water heater in our house for over 20 years, and if we ever move the first thing I would do is switch the tank water heater for a tankless. It isn't about saving money for me, its about never-ending hot water.
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Old 08-11-2019, 04:14 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by Dadhawk View Post
We've had a tankless water heater in our house for over 20 years, and if we ever move the first thing I would do is switch the tank water heater for a tankless. It isn't about saving money for me, its about never-ending hot water.
This is my prototype test run unit so I am trying to keep costs down yet still make it handle anything 1-2 people can throw at it with the only compromise being it's smaller size.
If it doesn't sell, at this point looking at other similar units for sale it easily should though, I also need one to put on the new land to live in while we build that house.
I wanted it comfortable(unlike most small RVs) and efficient and so far I've kept costs to build it minimal.
For my own house I build I am definitely going tankless. I'd change my current house out to tankless but I just changed it out to a regular tanked about 6 months ago.

Since I've made a couple of these posts about building this one I'm currently doing I haven't put too much thought into exactly what it should sell for.
I'd be curious what people in here say is a reasonable amount these should go for. When I get toward the end I will put up all info and see what people say but it
would be nice now to know since as I go that can determine how fancy I get with the countertops/cabinets/flooring/fixtures/lighting/etc.

I pretty much am building to follow all to code as if it were a new home. That means making it fireproof for a forest fire prone area, hurricane rated for in South Florida, able to take about 3 feet of flood
water untouched inside(in it's closed/protected state it will be like almost like a boat) and also thermally efficient for both this hot climate and also a colder one.

Pretty much making this thing a tiny fire,wind and water proof beast. Inside will be close to 155 sqft. For now plans 1 bedroom/1 full bathroom/kitchenette w/eating area and living room.
Solid stone countertops in bath and kitchen, decent fixtures and lighting, lifetime laminate floors, R-values at current new build standard, lots of storage in form of closets/cabinets/cubby holes,
room for one Full bed or two Twin in the bedroom. There is plenty of room for desktop computer and/or several laptop capable places but we might make a bed that that can be raised away to conceal a full desk area.
This way the bedroom can be transformed into a office if this is used by a building contractor. They usually just get one of these with a bathroom/kitchenette on the building site but this is a fully
functioning movable home and for not much more than those stripped out units. There is of course room for a massive TV(70" if the plan stays it's current way as it keeps evolving as we build).

It would be able to sleep up to four easily with using a futon instead of regular love seat also. A family of four could use this as a small getaway unit instead of a hotel/cabin/campsite.
If bunkbeds are used in the bedroom, sleeping a total of six could actually be done. Still enough room for 6 people to even sit and have a place to eat too.
So with that said if anybody in here could give me a estimate on what it should go(what they would pay for something similar) for I'd greatly appreciate that.
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