Is this a bad way to stop when driving manual?

[serialk11r]

Since I'm not super fast with rev matches a strategy I figured out was decelerating in gear until the fuel cutoff point, by which point your rpms should be low enough to make skip shifting really easy. For example, 1500 rpm in 5th, 4th would be 1.213/1.000*1500rpm=1820rpm, but blipping to 1820 is difficult since the pedal pressure it takes is very little. 3rd however is 1.541/1.000*1500=2311rpm, so you can afford a sloppier throttle jab and probably land at 2400-2500, let out the clutch and the clutch will correct your error easily. Or, you can even go straight from 5-2 (double clutching helps the synchros a bit), if you're at 1500rpm in 5, 2 would be 3250rpm ish, so give the throttle a good jab get it to like 3600? clutch out then back in, into 2nd, and then release, car should've slowed down on its own to maybe 3100rpm speed already, so you get a nice smooth shift, and 2nd gear gives you plenty of engine braking to slow the car down quickly. That way you can slow down faster when you need to come to a stop, and makes the dumb auto drivers behind you happier since you can slow down super fast just like them, except they're using their brake pads up and you're not!

[Suffa]

I drive in a similar style but I use the clutch. The important thing is to learn the sound and feel of the engine so if there's a surprise you know instantly which gear to throw it into.

[Tbxgz]

Originally Posted by Captain Snooze

If I have interpreted that correctly you are cruising for a short distance in neutral. I think that is a bad habit. You should be in the appropriate gear should you need to accelerate. You have no control over the car if you are in neutral.

There was actually a discussion about this recently. In some states its illegal to cruise in neutral. Its better to clutch in and leave the gear slotted in case you need to accelerate in a pinch.

Originally Posted by artizhay

I know I should technically be heel-toeing and downshift in sequence,

No need to heel-toe. The purpose of a heel toe is to break for a corner while optimizing your acceleration out of a turn. If you're just DD, I doubt you're hitting the limits of traction while turning so a simple blip before your exit point would be just fine.

[GingerExtract]

As long as you are matching revs between upshifts and downshifts, you can't be "hurting" much of anything. Although for downshifts, I always recommend double clutching if you are not in a hurry as it is easier on the synchros.

[post_break]

You need to learn how to walk down the gears. Never roll through a turn in neutral, never roll up to an intersection in neutral. Pretty much never be in neutral, just rev match down to 2nd.

[travace]

so i got out while alone and practiced rev matching.

4th to 3rd i can get smoothly.
3rd to 2nd is still rough.


eventually i think i will get some nice heel toe pedals

[jflogerzi]

Originally Posted by travace

i have my own dice so i'm good

I think everyone has a pair of "those dice" :happy0180:

[*KID*]

I just drive a bit hard, downshift to the point where the engine power is strong again when I need it back up, I honestly dont know how I do it, it just comes natural. There shouldnt be a problem with the way you drive it.

[xwd]

I got in the habit of double clutching early on. Really all of this just takes a little bit of practice and after you drive the car for like 2 weeks you'll feel silly for even posting this.

But yeah definitely don't coast in neutral and if you do, do it with the clutch in and not with the gear lever in neutral, always have the car in some gear.

[hybrid35]

Originally Posted by serialk11r

clutch out then back in, into 2nd, and then release, car should've slowed down on its own to maybe 3100rpm speed already, so you get a nice smooth shift, and 2nd gear gives you plenty of engine braking to slow the car down quickly. That way you can slow down faster when you need to come to a stop, and makes the dumb auto drivers behind you happier since you can slow down super fast just like them, except they're using their brake pads up and you're not!

I've always had the impression that engine braking is worse than brake pad braking since it puts strain on the engine and transmission (all the turning components) rather than just a cheap brake pad. If you're on a downhill and you don't want you brake pads heating up too much or fading, then maybe you would want to compensate/modulate a little bit of brake pad braking with engine braking, but on a normal flat drive/uphill drive I don't think it's necessary. Actually, more so, I think it's harmful.

[sierra]

Originally Posted by artizhay

Yeah, I know that's unsafe which is why I keep it in gear as long as possible. I'm only in neutral right before the turn and during the turn, but I usually would have the clutch depressed and the shifter in second in case I need to accelerate while taking the turn.

That's really bad driving to take a turn in neutral or with the clutch depressed.
What you need to do and it's what makes a manual so much fun, is to anticipate what gear you need for what's coming up. Change down through the box as you slow down so that you're always in the right gear for the speed.
So when you come up to a corner that looks like it needs 2nd gear change into second[from 3rd] as you slow for the turn and then 'drive' it round it with a bit of throttle. That way the car is balanced and ready to slow or accelerate depending on what you see when you come out of the turn.
I don't change from 2nd into 1st at lights and stop signs. I put it into neutral from 2nd just before stopping and get my foot off the clutch, when it's stopped, so I'm not riding the release bearing.[good practice]

[GingerExtract]

Originally Posted by hybrid35

I've always had the impression that engine braking is worse than brake pad braking since it puts strain on the engine and transmission (all the turning components) rather than just a cheap brake pad. If you're on a downhill and you don't want you brake pads heating up too much or fading, then maybe you would want to compensate/modulate a little bit of brake pad braking with engine braking, but on a normal flat drive/uphill drive I don't think it's necessary. Actually, more so, I think it's harmful.

Short answer, no, engine breaking does no damage to a motor or transmission. However, if you are not matching revs when downshifting to engine break, say from 5th gear to 3rd or whatever the circumstance calls for, then yes you are wearing the clutch. A lot of big rig truckers do this, it's call compression braking, and I do not recommend it for a street car unless you like replacing clutches.

[serialk11r]

Originally Posted by hybrid35

I've always had the impression that engine braking is worse than brake pad braking since it puts strain on the engine and transmission (all the turning components) rather than just a cheap brake pad. If you're on a downhill and you don't want you brake pads heating up too much or fading, then maybe you would want to compensate/modulate a little bit of brake pad braking with engine braking, but on a normal flat drive/uphill drive I don't think it's necessary. Actually, more so, I think it's harmful.

Everything I've ever read pretty much says use engine braking.

Strain on the engine and transmission? I don't think so, engine braking torque is a tiny fraction of the positive torque available for acceleration. Why else would they put deceleration fuel cutoffs on cars if they knew it was going to put strain on the engine that actually caused wear/damage?

[hybrid35]

Originally Posted by GingerExtract

Short answer, no, engine breaking does no damage to a motor or transmission. However, if you are not matching revs when downshifting to engine break, say from 5th gear to 3rd or whatever the circumstance calls for, then yes you are wearing the clutch. A lot of big rig truckers do this, it's call compression braking, and I do not recommend it for a street car unless you like replacing clutches.

Thanks that clears things up, you're right that there's no wear on the clutch or synchro's when you rev match.

Originally Posted by serialk11r

Everything I've ever read pretty much says use engine braking.

Strain on the engine and transmission? I don't think so, engine braking torque is a tiny fraction of the positive torque available for acceleration. Why else would they put deceleration fuel cutoffs on cars if they knew it was going to put strain on the engine that actually caused wear/damage?

Thanks, the torque bit makes sense. For the fuel cut off though, the downhill for DFCO will turn the wheels which turn the engine/tranny so there isn't much if any strain. But on a flat surface it will be a different story because inertia (gravity) isn't pulling the car forward anymore therefore not turning the engine. So where the pistons usually push to make the wheels turn, the wheels/weight are now slowing down the car which in turn pulls the pistons, putting unnecessary reverse wear on it. I'm not sure how much the wear is, though it's probably little as I haven't heard of anyone blowing up an engine due to engine braking and because wiki says so.

Just don't money shift