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01-27-2016, 11:39 AM | #1 |
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Necessary Mods to Maintain OEM Geometry with Coilovers
I've been doing a lot of reading, research, and shopping around, but have no definitive answer on what supporting mods would be necessary with coilovers to maintain OEM suspension geometry or close. I don't want to cut corners when I install coils, but I don't want to break the bank either.
For my application the car is daily driven 90% of the time and sees track/spirited driving the other 10% of the time. The daily driving isn't even really daily, but when I do drive it's typically on the highway. Right now the car is stock and my intended progression is:
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01-27-2016, 12:05 PM | #2 |
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Depending on the coilovers (whether it includes a front camber plate) you may want to look into getting camber bolts for a bit of adjustment. Also, rear lower control arms, depending how much you lower the car. In my experience, I was able to get the desired alignment by using front camber bolts, and just letting the rear camber naturally follow. I believe I'm somewhere around -2.5* on a 1" drop with 17x9 +35 wheels and 245/40 tires. Absolutely zero rubbing. Kind of wish I went 255, but I don't think it would clear the front strut. Maybe when I get coilovers some day, but I've found just the Hotchkis springs to handle exceptionally well for my intended purpose.
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01-27-2016, 12:07 PM | #3 | |
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01-27-2016, 12:52 PM | #4 | ||
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I'm just trying to cover all the bases after reading the thread about "How to screw up your cars handling and ride" hahah |
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01-27-2016, 12:55 PM | #5 | |
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01-27-2016, 01:12 PM | #6 |
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01-27-2016, 01:14 PM | #7 |
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Full track car, or if you go real low and need more adjustment for your alignment. Whiteline makes a roll center correction kit that I would also look at getting as well as a caster/dive correction kit if you want to go all out for a DD but you really don't need those if your only going down 1 inch
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01-27-2016, 01:16 PM | #8 |
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01-27-2016, 01:17 PM | #9 |
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Lowering less than an inch shouldn't affect the need for a roll center kit and put you at or less than -2 degrees of camber in the rear, toe should be minimally affected. The rear LCA's stock I would trust more than most <$400 LCA's on the market, there's no reason to change it if you aren't changing the alignment (and be careful what you choose, some rulesets don't allow things like spherical joints).
The front camber will be minimally affected by lowering unless the coils come with camber plates or slotted and you add negative camber odds are you can easily keep your front camber less than -1 degree. imo sounds like you have no need for any other suspension mods at this time. However I think more aggressive alignment has been my favorite change to the car so far above tires and budget coilovers. I haven't got my LCA's in yet but camber plates have been my favorite change so far. |
01-27-2016, 01:37 PM | #10 |
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Awesome, thanks for the info! One other question though, coils that don't come with a camber plate like RCE Tarmac 0s or KW V3s, they're slotted and that would be enough camber adjustment for not totally slamming the car? From my understanding it's better to make your camber adjustments at the hub as opposed to using a camber plate.
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01-27-2016, 01:42 PM | #11 |
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Not sure if you Autocross or not, but just wanted to give a heads up. If you do install the Whiteline roll center kit, it will bump you into Street Modified class. I run in STX class and that's the main reason I haven't installed one yet.
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01-27-2016, 01:54 PM | #12 |
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I was considering giving it a shot this year so that's good to know. Do LCA's bump you out of STX as well?
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01-27-2016, 02:26 PM | #13 |
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01-27-2016, 03:03 PM | #14 | |
Quote:
I generally recommend rear LCAs since I'm a little picky about alignment. - Andrew |
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