11-23-2021, 01:23 AM | #5755 | |
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11-23-2021, 03:28 AM | #5756 |
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shit happens, and i m sure Zach left the closed loop fuel control active all range and started with no crazy timing... was just bad luck
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11-23-2021, 07:30 AM | #5757 | |
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11-23-2021, 07:30 AM | #5758 |
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The Following User Says Thank You to dynarun55 For This Useful Post: | CSG Mike (11-23-2021) |
11-23-2021, 12:07 PM | #5759 | |
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11-27-2021, 01:42 AM | #5760 |
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11-27-2021, 08:44 AM | #5761 |
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Has anyone here added a oil temp sensor to the rotrex oil system? If so where did you put the sensor? Thinking about drilling a hole in the bottom of the reservoir and tapping it for a sensor with a gauge in the cabin.
Also if anyone is on the fence about the kswap you can run the jrsc kit on the k24 with about 800$ with of parts pretty easily.
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12-18-2021, 08:07 PM | #5762 |
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Thinking about installing this myself over the summer. Can anyone with experience tell me whats the difficulty on this install?
For reference, I've installed a header, front pipe, catback exhaust, and coilovers before. As for electronics, I've installed a headunit and a backup camera before. |
12-19-2021, 11:39 AM | #5763 | |
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The instructions are concise, and in hindsight say exactly what needs to be said. I would personally prefer more photos and a more verbose approach with additional tips that you would otherwise figure out on your own. Unfortunately too much information leaves more to be skipped or ignored so I understand why its trimmed to what it is. In hindsight, the instructions are solid, just read them very closely and comprehensively. If you're comfortable working on/around the engine, its not bad at all. Download the manual from JR first and familiarize yourself with it to see if there's anything that feels out of your league. Make sure you have all the tools required, the oil cooler requires 27mm and 29mm sockets and wrenches which are oddballs for some. The "Special Tools Recommended" list is very, very handy to have on hand. (also Knipex pliers for general garage stuff, they're a little expensive but awesome and worth it, I used them many times during this install. I have a 6" and 12", Amazon has them). You can never have enough zip ties. 4", 8", 12"... The kit includes a bunch, but then again I have a fetish for these little things... Extra body and bumper clips (various sized little round pop-button clips) are always handy, local Subaru dealer parts can get what you need. Rerouting the valve cover vent line and the MAF wiring harness on the top of the engine is tight, so expect that to be awkward. I used some clear silicone on the washer bottle fitments to ensure it doesn't leak. Intercooler pipe fitment is pretty tight, they need to fit deep into the couplers and they damn near touch something on all sides as the route around the left and right sides of the bumper/headlight area. Keep the MAF piping section as low as reasonably possible and don't rotate MAF sensor tube forward to clear the hood liner, keep it right at 12 o'clock. Cut or remove the liner if there's clearance issues. The IC couplers use typical screw-drive band clamps. Use a 7mm socket on low torque setting on a power drill if you want to drive them down faster. If you happen to "strip" one, its just the little housing deforming. I used 6" Knipex pliers to squeeze the housing a tad (don't crush it, the band still needs to fit in there) and tighten the crimp on the side just a tiny bit, viola, like new again. On the supercharger itself, its easy to glaze over the diagram in the instructions and hook up the in/out oil lines backwards. All of the instructional photos are shown from the front looking aft as if you're standing in front of the car, however this CAD diagram is aft looking forward. The instructions call out 'in' and 'out', however it's not identified in a photo. I didn't see the thin "IN" and "OUT" engraving on the unit so looking at the diagram, assuming it was the same perspective, my lines went on backward, and resulted in an expensive test drive as I proceeded to sieze it into a $2300 paperweight. One panic attack, tow strap, and a phone call later, I had another unit on the way from JR. Don't do what I did. I installed the oil cooler at the same time, and getting all the cooling lines and IC piping through the driver side bumper/radiator area is tricky, but just take your time and you'll find a way to route things so they remain relaxed. If you have the ability to take your time, do it and don't rush anything. If it takes you two weekends, just enjoy the bonding experience you and your car will share! After install, be very cognizant of warmup when driving. If you're going with CSG's tuning, Zach's tune will warn you that you're driving too aggressively when the engine isn't ready (CEL or power cut). Keep the rpm moderate with mild throttle until temps are up, then have your fun. Zach is awesome, btw. Last edited by wheelhaus; 04-12-2023 at 12:07 PM. |
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02-07-2022, 11:26 AM | #5764 |
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I just finished the install this weekend.
The install is pretty simple. The largest challenges I had were updates to the kit not being reflected in the instructions. Most hardware, hoses, and sub assemblies were already together, and the instructions haven't been updated. It would also be nice if they had a combined install with the engine cooler. The separate books are not marked for optimizing the total work time. It is relatively easy to piece together, but additional clarity wouldn't hurt. Two questions post install: The engine oil cooler on the filter port has 4 outlets. Two facing horizontal, and two angled upwards at ~45 degrees. It is looking like I will not have space to mount to the horizontal plug, so is it OK to go into the 45 degree angle? Edit for photo: Is the rotrex cooler directional? The filter and charger are labeled, but I didn't check the Setrab unit to see if it was. My brain says I'm overthinking this, but wouldn't mind some reassurance. Last edited by Gungnir; 02-07-2022 at 04:45 PM. |
02-07-2022, 07:07 PM | #5765 | |
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02-08-2022, 04:12 PM | #5766 |
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Thanks, Chris. Looks like we glossed over the rotation directions on the charge pipe. I cleaned things up, and lines are looking better.
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02-21-2022, 10:24 AM | #5767 |
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Maybe you guys can help me troubleshoot something.
My JRSC has been running like a champ so far, except this morning. Throttle response was fine when in vacuum/below boost, but once I got into boost there was no power, just hesitation. No CEL. My Scangauge showed mileage was upwards of 47-48mpg, so its seeing way less fuel being used. Only other thing thats occasionally caught my attention is cold starts. Sometimes they seem a bit labored and it doesn’t seem eager to fire up, kind of like an old radial airplane engine for just a split second. Once its started it smells rich. I’ve chalked this up to now also turning the tune, and laboring from the supercharger but was curious if it may be related. Any ideas where to look first? Actually at the time of writing this, I remember just yesterday I installed a new hood liner and rotated the MAF tube forward for better clearance, and I can’t recall if the MAF sensor orietation is critical- i.e. if it needs to be upright… Gonna check the instructions now. Edit- The instructions do state MAF to be directly vertical. Would this actually cause the issue I’m experiencing if its rotated forward 90 degrees? |
02-21-2022, 12:37 PM | #5768 |
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maf should be vertical, yes . Much more probability of contamination
kind of similar of when you install lambda sensors.. it s better to keep vertical and avoid too much inclination Also, anytime you move the maf, even a single millimeter, the scaling is gonna need a change The maf only sample a very small portion of a (optimistically) laminar flow of air, and that 's enough to mess with the scaling you had before moving the maf In reality the flow is always a bit turbolent.. so it's even worse anyway to me looks like a intake/boost leak... but if you aren' t going to post a log of you car here, we can't jump to conclusions |
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