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Old 02-07-2019, 04:12 PM   #43
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I just went through a few of my logs and found one that starts with the coolant at 114F and oil at 94F. About 6 minutes into the drive the coolant plateaued at 190F. When the coolant first reached 190F the oil was at 158.5F. It took an additional 3 minutes for the oil to stabilize at 185.46F. So in this case it took me 8mins total to reach normal oil temps. But this isn't from a completely cold start. Also IAT was around 78F so this wasn't in cold weather, even for Florida.

Tomorrow morning I will do a log from being completely cold and post the results.

One other thing, I feel like I've read that the water temp gauge on this car climbs up and then stopped just before the middle mark and from there it stops moving even though the temp hasn't reached 190. The gauge only moves above the midpoint if the coolant goes way over 190. When I do my log tomorrow I will take a timestamp when the needle first hits the 1/4 mark and another timestamp right when it hits it's normal resting place and then compare these timestamps to the real data.
I'll look forward to your results -


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Old 02-07-2019, 04:17 PM   #44
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Sounds like you need an oil warmer - rather that an oil cooler -


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I think Wolverine makes them.

edit.
https://www.wolverineheater.com/coll...s-light-trucks
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Old 02-07-2019, 10:24 PM   #45
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Sounds like you need an oil warmer - rather that an oil cooler -
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mine's special. I can turn it off.


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Old 02-08-2019, 10:58 AM   #46
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So I forgot my SD card at the office so I wasn't able to use my Tactrix to log on the way in this morning so instead I used my Bluetooth LE adapter which has a terrible refresh rate and ended up hanging up before everything was up to temperature.

So here is the summary of my short log. After being parked overnight for about 13 hours the oil temp started at 71F and the coolant started at 80F. I idled in the driveway for about 4.5mins and by that time the coolant was up to 129F and the oil was up to 97F. I then pulled out of the driveway. About 6 mins from the start of the car the coolant needle on the car hit the 1/4 mark and the data showed 147F for the coolant and 115F for the oil. I forgot to get a timestamp at the point where the needle stopped climbing so I can't correlate it to the actual data. When the tstat opened for the first time it was 9mins into the log and the coolant was 194F and the oil was 158F. The BLE adapter hung up 11mins into the log and at that point the oil was at 170F.

I did reconnect the BLE adapter and did some more logging on the interstate. Cruising around 3000rpm the oil temp is fairly stable around 210. I picked my cruise speed to about 90mph where it's running 4000RPM for about 1.5 mins and it jumped up to 220F. I then exited the interstate and in about 1.5mins it was back down to 210F and stayed the for the rest of my commute driving like a normal person.

Here is the chart. Keep in mind the oil and coolant are on different scales so just because the line for oil temp climbs above the coolant doesn't mean it actually did. Hove the mouse to see the actual numbers.

https://datazap.me/u/ermax/log-15496...=2-3&mark=2803

I will use my Tactrix to log on the way home but the starting temps will probably still be well above ambient.
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Old 02-08-2019, 11:24 AM   #47
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You should never idle for that length of time.
Oil pressure is at its lowest at idle, and your oil is cold. That's THE HIGHEST wear and tear mode there is.
Start the car and before it comes off high idle, you should be granny driving under light load and between 1500-3000 rpm until your oil is up to temp. The key here is oil pressure.
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Old 02-08-2019, 01:53 PM   #48
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You should never idle for that length of time.
Oil pressure is at its lowest at idle, and your oil is cold. That's THE HIGHEST wear and tear mode there is.
Start the car and before it comes off high idle, you should be granny driving under light load and between 1500-3000 rpm until your oil is up to temp. The key here is oil pressure.
Oh, I suspect that ol @ermax knows that. He most likely picked that up from a Popular Mechanics magazine when he was a kid -


However, you do make a good point - in some parts, in 4 minutes, an idling car in the driveway just might get stolen -


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Old 02-08-2019, 01:58 PM   #49
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You should never idle for that length of time.
Oil pressure is at its lowest at idle, and your oil is cold. That's THE HIGHEST wear and tear mode there is.
Lowest at idle? The key always is adequate flow at pressure. Even with 0w20, cold pressure at idle is still over 100 PSI. Remember, bypass valve opens at 140.

The highest wear/revolution is cranking at startup. After that, there is absolutely nothing to sweat. Idle all day long.
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Old 02-08-2019, 02:25 PM   #50
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o____o


mine's special. I can turn it off.


Mine does that too, but automatically. It's called a thermostat.
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Old 02-08-2019, 02:52 PM   #51
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the day i decide idling is bad for my car is the day i sell my car.
stressing over how long the car idles is not how i want to live my life lol
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Old 02-08-2019, 02:54 PM   #52
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Right oil temp for higher revs

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tokay444 View Post
You should never idle for that length of time.
Oil pressure is at its lowest at idle, and your oil is cold. That's THE HIGHEST wear and tear mode there is.
Start the car and before it comes off high idle, you should be granny driving under light load and between 1500-3000 rpm until your oil is up to temp. The key here is oil pressure.


Sorry, I was saying bye to my family. Hahaha. I normally crank and go. Personally highest wear would be redline with cold oil. That is all I really worry about.
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Old 02-08-2019, 02:56 PM   #53
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the day i decide idling is bad for my car is the day i sell my car.
stressing over how long the car idles is not how i want to live my life lol
The same applies to those that say that driving at higher RPMs all the time is wearing out the engine! The oil systems are designed to work through the whole range of engine speeds during normal driving conditions and worrying that one speed or another is damaging anything is silly.
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Old 02-08-2019, 03:02 PM   #54
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Lowest at idle? The key always is adequate flow at pressure. Even with 0w20, cold pressure at idle is still over 100 PSI. Remember, bypass valve opens at 140.

The highest wear/revolution is cranking at startup. After that, there is absolutely nothing to sweat. Idle all day long.


But itís only 100 at idle with cold oil right? Once itís up to temp the idle pressure on this car is silly low isnít it? I donít have a pressure gauge so I donít have first hand knowledge of this.
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Old 02-08-2019, 03:03 PM   #55
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the day i decide idling is bad for my car is the day i sell my car.
stressing over how long the car idles is not how i want to live my life lol
Hey, where did my car go - I left it right here, idling -




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Old 02-08-2019, 03:34 PM   #56
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But itís only 100 at idle with cold oil right? Once itís up to temp the idle pressure on this car is silly low isnít it? I donít have a pressure gauge so I donít have first hand knowledge of this.
Yeah, it's like 20...
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