R/C Drifting

[Axel]

content removed

[Gost]

i was looking to get into R/Cs about two years ago as a new hobby. it can get real expensive real quick, even with smaller R/C models in 1:28 scales. a quality starter kit is around 200 USD.
I never went through with it tho cause the scene is really really small here.
the videos sick. someone of the models i've seen myself are of such high quality, taking up close photos of them makes them look like actual cars.

[e10rice]

I was looking into it too, but your right its very expensive. I still want one though. one day i'll get one.

[Tsuchi]

Me and my buddies from grade school just got back into 1/10 scale drifting. Right now I am running a carbon fiber tt01 chassis. If you're looking for a good starter chassis I'd suggest a Tamiya tt01 they are very easy to fix and cheap too.

[RWDJunkie]

Yeah, I got into it almost a year ago. I suggest electric setups for beginners. The other ones can get really expensive with buying fuel, having to tune the motor, etc. Fun little hobby for sure. Been busy with work though. Haven't actually taken my TT01 out for a few months now.

That video makes me want to take my little S15 out for a run this weekend. I'm not as good as those guys in the vid though. I can't tandem drift with it yet. I can only follow at a close distance, touge style.

I eventually want to get the Weld E10 Mark II.




Also, thought this custom AE86 body was really nice looking.

[Axel]

Great stuff! truly amazing realism.

here's another drift video from Team D10 - a South African RC drift team. There's a nice white AE86 and a WHOLE lot of Silvia's... good music too!

and this one is from Austria... nothing but ballz to the wall! (and a whole lot of fender bending! mostly slo-mo, but fun never-the-less.

[Gost]

this ones coming out of hawaii

[u2b]ZrtwcKrcFSY[/u2b]


I'm still thinking about getting one but i don't know anyone in the NYC area involved with the scene. And im undecided between a 1/10 scale or the smaller 1/28 scales. Xmods are relatively cheap but id prefer something a little higher quality like a Mini-Z, but for the price of a Mini-Z starter, I can just get a 1/10 scale starter instead, if not cheaper.

[RWDJunkie]

Nice vids. Never seen those... but I have seen D10 vids before. They're one of the best RC drift clubs out there.

That second vid reminds me: You WILL beat the crap out of your first shell if you're a complete noob to; 1) drifting, and 2) any kind of RC cars. Example: Here's a pic of my S15 with a friend's RX-7 when we first got them.



And here's a pic that was taken less than 2 months afterwards. Notice how my boy's RX-7 is beat to hell. This is why I didn't start with the E10 Mark II kit, because I didn't want to beat that shell to death. And believe me, you will beat your first shell to death.



Still, it's a lot of good fun.

[Midship Runabout]

the FD looks like a real drift car but with zipties instead

[e10rice]

So can anyone suggest a website to order from and what i would be looking for as a beginner setup?

[RWDJunkie]

Originally Posted by e10rice

So can anyone suggest a website to order from and what i would be looking for as a beginner setup?

As a beginner I'd suggest the same kit that Tsuchi and I have - Tamiya's TT01/TT01E chassis. The E series is the latest one and comes with a tower strut bar stock. Anyways, The TT01 was recommended to me by quite a few people who have been doing RC drifting for 5+ years.

This chassis has tons of hop up parts available for later on when you decide to upgrade/mod it. But for starting off, all you'll probably need to do it replace the plastic drive shaft with an aluminum one.

There's also the Koysho E10 chassis, but I don't really hear about newbies buying those kits to start with.

Basic needs:
TT01
Drift tires (stock ones are ass)
Aluminum drive shaft
Batteries (I'd recommend 2 - keep one charged as a back up)
Recharger kit

Anyways, you can check out these sites if you don't know of any trust worthy hobby shops in your area:

http://www.tamiyausa.com/index.php
http://www.towerhobbies.com/



Chassis shown with aluminum (blue) after market drive shaft.


You'll want to get these HPI brand tires - slick/non threaded.




You can decide what rims and other little cosmetic stuff you want to buy on your own.

[Midship Runabout]

& civic with nitrous. haha typical.
that skyline would look cool without the front mount i think

[e10rice]

Hey thanks this should give my wife a heart attack once she see's the price! HAHA!

[Axel]

Typical R/C AE86... does the 4WD consitute cheating??

http://www.hpiracing.com/kitinfo/750/



The RTR Sprint 2 Drift chassis is 4WD for consistent drift action on a wide variety of surfaces, easy to drive, and has all of the features you need to adjust for a perfect drift set-up: camber, toe-in, ride height, Ackerman, and a wide variety of available shock oils and shock springs! With a big foam front bumper, reinforced molded nylon chassis, upper deck and shock towers, you'll see that the Sprint 2 Drift can easily take the abuse of drift driving. The full ball bearing, dual belt, 4 wheel drive transmission is very efficient and capable of handling high power modified electric motors down to 10 turns. Standard equipment includes a 17 turn motor, reversible electronic speed control, battery pack, AC charger, and a highly quality HPI TF-1 radio system.

The design of the Sprint 2 chassis with its controlled flexibility gives the car great handling. A belt driven 4 wheel drive system guarantees smooth power transfer and excellent traction on all surfaces. Plus, the race proven suspension with real oil filled shock absorbers offer lots of racing features you wouldn't expect from a beginners car: adjustable camber and toe-in links, extra long upper links with new multiple mounting positions, adjustable Ackerman settings, adjustable droop, different caster and toe in blocks included in the kit... to name but a few.

With a big foam front bumper, a reinforced chassis, upper deck and shock towers you'll see that the Sprint 2 can take the abuse of racing on the track and on the street! All important chassis and suspension parts are made from high quality, high impact nylon which makes the Sprint 2 almost indestructible!
The fully ball raced, dual belt, 4 wheel drive transmission with only one geared step (48dpi motor pinion to spur gear) is very efficient and capable of high power modified electric motors.

With sealed gear differentials front and rear, you never have to worry about time-intensive diff rebuilds on your Sprint 2.

The strong and flexible HPI polycarbonate bodyshell resists cracking and other damage!

8 rubber sealed ball bearings at the wheel axels and 6 more ball bearings at all other axels don't wear out like metal or plastic bushings and provide lower friction and more speed.

When you're ready, it will be very easy to hop up your Sprint 2. Install a new body shell from HPI's great bodyshell range, get some HPI wheels with high traction tires, or one of the cool Sprint 2 option parts!

The Sprint 2 is a great, rock solid car for all beginners and club racers. The RTR version includes everything you need! Just run the car straight out of the box and enjoy the great handling and the awesome performance. But if you want to compete on a race track all the foundations are in place to tune your Sprint 2 and to set it up for some really fast lap times.

Dual deck chassisPrecut foam bumper Efficient dual belt drive train

Aluminium motor mount

Real oil filled shocks Adjustable droop - Better handling and tunability especially on high grip tracksFully adjustable suspension Extra long upper

links with new multiple mounting positions

Smooth running Urethane belt S3M New improved servo saver Ball raced
steering bell crank Adjustable belt tension

Accepts both stick pack battery......and saddle pack battery configurationsGeared differentials with metal out drives Fully ball raced - Free transmission and increased durability

Adjustable camber and toe-in links Adjustable ackerman settings 2 and 3 degree rear toe-in blocks included in the kit 4 and 6 degree front castor blocks included in the kit