CSG and RCE tag-team suspension Q&A thread! Ask us anything!

[Racecomp Engineering]

2.5 degrees camber will make a big difference.

20mm front and 16mm rear will be good and both being adjustable is a good call to help you dial in steady state balance.

- Andy

[Panman]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

Koni and Bilstein are like Pepsi and Coke. Coke is better.

Just kidding. I run Koni on my personal Mini Cooper S and like them but I'm about to switch to custom valved Bilsteins (which would be like pure cane sugar fancy hispter soda). You could still do that with Bilstein HDs, the price just adds up.

In general I do like the gas pressure and monotube feel from Bilsteins...over big bumps they feel a little smoother and the response is a little quicker. The twintube Koni feels better on small and medium bumps. The rebound adjustment is pretty nice too but I really dig the fast response of the Bilstein.

The current price on the Koni Yellow full replacements from FT86club is hard to pass up. Bilstein HDs would work for you really well too and you could revalve them sometime down the line. I would be happy with either.

- Andy

I have a limited budget - and am attracted by the Konis at this price - however the other option is Cascams on the standard struts, bang for your buck which is going to be the better investment given that the price on the Konis may not last that long?

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Panman

I have a limited budget - and am attracted by the Konis at this price - however the other option is Cascams on the standard struts, bang for your buck which is going to be the better investment given that the price on the Konis may not last that long?

CasCam as you'll never outgrow them. You can use them on anything from stock dampers, all the way to Penske Motorsport dampers, with just a bushing and perch change.

[Panman]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

CasCam as you'll never outgrow them. You can use them on anything from stock dampers, all the way to Penske Motorsport dampers, with just a bushing and perch change.

Awesome - thanks for the advice.

[Calum]

Originally Posted by Panman

I have a limited budget - and am attracted by the Konis at this price - however the other option is Cascams on the standard struts, bang for your buck which is going to be the better investment given that the price on the Konis may not last that long?

What are you trying to accomplish? Bang for the buck, this car is pretty awesome to begin with. Unless you have a specific issue you're trying to sort out, there's not much point in modding the suspension.

[Mad1723]

Planning on getting coilovers soon, anything I need in combination with them? I'm running stock setup for wheels and tires. Planning on getting V3s, do I need camber bolts right away if I want to get a minimum of camber (around -1 or -1.25) or do I absolutely need a set of aftermarket camber plates like Raceseng or Vorshlag?

Any tips on someone getting his first set of coilovers?

Thanks in advance for your help guys!

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by Panman

I have a limited budget - and am attracted by the Konis at this price - however the other option is Cascams on the standard struts, bang for your buck which is going to be the better investment given that the price on the Konis may not last that long?

How do you plan on using your car? What kind of tires do you have?

- Andy

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by Mad1723

Planning on getting coilovers soon, anything I need in combination with them? I'm running stock setup for wheels and tires. Planning on getting V3s, do I need camber bolts right away if I want to get a minimum of camber (around -1 or -1.25) or do I absolutely need a set of aftermarket camber plates like Raceseng or Vorshlag?

Any tips on someone getting his first set of coilovers?

Thanks in advance for your help guys!

KWs have a slotted lower mount so you have some camber adjustability built in. You should be able to get the camber you need with no other modifications. Camber plates would be a good call if you want -2 or more.

- Andy

[Mad1723]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

KWs have a slotted lower mount so you have some camber adjustability built in. You should be able to get the camber you need with no other modifications. Camber plates would be a good call if you want -2 or more.

- Andy

Thanks Andy! Very useful to know! Can't wait to get these bad boys!

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

[Bobblehead]

Installed the Whiteline Rear Positive Traction bushing inserts today! In addition to my rear diff inserts, these make the car LOUD inside. I'm going to take a highway jot in it to see if I can cope with it until the sound deadening I ordered shows up.

I can't really tell if they've changed the car very much, though. Maybe I haven't driven it hard enough to feel the effects of the upgrade.

Anyways, if I can't deal with the noise or feel enough difference, I'm removing them tomorrow and I'll sell them on here. "Because RACECAR" isn't a good enough reason for me to have a crazy loud cabin.

[Panman]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

How do you plan on using your car? What kind of tires do you have?

- Andy

@Racecomp Engineering Currently have Nitto Invos for road use on 17x8 Desmond Regamasters, Track use is 595-RSRs (To be replaced by Nitto NT05s when they wear out). Primarily road use and canyon carving, with regular (at least once per month) motorkhana, drift and HPDE/Trackdays


Have the STI Pink springs, and SPC Camber bolts running -1.75 at the front, no toe front or rear.

[solidONE]

Random question, I hope you guys don't mind. Kinda sorta suspension related.

Has any of you heard of lug nuts seizing on the wheel stud simply because the car was not raised or the weight of the car unloaded before loosening the lug nuts? I've been wrenching on cars for years and have not ever experienced or heard of this until today.

A friend of mine had his tires mounted by a shop and when he went to remove the wheels he found 2 of the lug nuts on separate wheels seized. He was using a breaker bar and not an impact BTW. He called the shop back about the issue but they blamed it on my friend for not first jacking the car up before loosening the lugs... Now, I'm not going to claim that I know everything there is to know about wheel studs and lug nuts, but I personally think shop botched it up and cross threaded the lugs. You guys heard of this kind of shit before?

[troek]

sounds like complete bs to me. i brake all my lugs loose with weight on the car, on every vehicle ive ever owned. my guess is the shop cross threaded them.

[ZionsWrath]

Lmao. Tell him to ask them how is he supposed to loosen the front studs withoutvan impact if the car is off the ground