CSG and RCE tag-team suspension Q&A thread! Ask us anything!

[SmartedPanda]

Originally Posted by churchx

He may wish for more camber then with bolts-only.

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

Do you need/want camber plates?

- Andrew

Valid point, I really don't know what I want. I guess I wouldn't know what to do with camber plates, nor know how to adjust them w/o an alignment specialist.
Like right now, if asked what camber I would want I wouldn't have an objective answer, only a subjective of "minimum tire wear for DD"
Think I just rather have a top hat / add a top hat now when the suspension is off than do it later down the road.

[strat61caster]

Originally Posted by SmartedPanda

Like right now, if asked what camber I would want I wouldn't have an objective answer, only a subjective of "minimum tire wear for DD"

That plus the priority of comfort over performance, the phrase OEM+, I say skip the camber plates unless you decide on something that already has them, when you need it you'll know and you may end up swapping coilovers out anyway.

I say keep it simple and durable, lowering springs, B14, ST etc. Learn what you want as you go without plunging into the deep end, or you might end up miserable. Top hats will be sitting on the shelf waiting for many years to come if you decide to hunt for more grip at the expense of tire life and NVH.

Or what the hell do I know, get 'dem Tein XX-way adjustables with full sphericals and be happy as a clam, many are.

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by SmartedPanda

Valid point, I really don't know what I want. I guess I wouldn't know what to do with camber plates, nor know how to adjust them w/o an alignment specialist.
Like right now, if asked what camber I would want I wouldn't have an objective answer, only a subjective of "minimum tire wear for DD"
Think I just rather have a top hat / add a top hat now when the suspension is off than do it later down the road.

Right, in that case keeping the OEM mounts would be an advantage over camber plates for your uses. Silent and better ride quality. A set of camber bolts to help dial in alignment and you're set.

- Andrew

[Jarlax]

Hi guys, I'm looking for advice on coilovers. Currently, I'm on ST coilovers and I'm looking for an upgrade. I've been looking at the KW x Greddy coilovers, RCE T0/T2, and KW V3. I will be doing mostly spirited driving on the streets a couple times a month and tracking 1-2 times a year. I will be driving the car year round in Canada, so I like the fact that the RCE T0's are stainless steel inox coated; however, I would like something stiffer like the RCE T2's and KW x Greddy coilovers. I doubt I will be doing much adjustments after installing the coilovers, so I'm not sure if the RCE T2's or KW V3's are a right fit. At the moment, I'm on stock rims and tires; however, I will be looking into wider rims and proper tires shortly after installing the new coilovers. Looking to purchase a set later in the year to catch on some good deals.

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by Jarlax

Hi guys, I'm looking for advice on coilovers. Currently, I'm on ST coilovers and I'm looking for an upgrade. I've been looking at the KW x Greddy coilovers, RCE T0/T2, and KW V3. I will be doing mostly spirited driving on the streets a couple times a month and tracking 1-2 times a year. I will be driving the car year round in Canada, so I like the fact that the RCE T0's are stainless steel inox coated; however, I would like something stiffer like the RCE T2's and KW x Greddy coilovers. I doubt I will be doing much adjustments after installing the coilovers, so I'm not sure if the RCE T2's or KW V3's are a right fit. At the moment, I'm on stock rims and tires; however, I will be looking into wider rims and proper tires shortly after installing the new coilovers. Looking to purchase a set later in the year to catch on some good deals.

What kind of tires do you plan on running? Why do you want something stiffer than RCE T2 or Greddy coilovers?

- Andrew

[Jarlax]

I plan on running Michelin pilot super sports or equivalent. I worded it in a confusing manner. But I think the stiffness of the Greddy x kw and the RCE T2 are the ideal stiffness I want. However, in terms of price, the Greddy coilovers are closer in terms of price to the RCE T0. My question is, am I sacrificing that much performance if I were to go for the softer RCE T0's, instead of the Greddy coilovers?

Edit:
I'm also looking into the Tein Flex Z and Flex A. How are they compared to the Greddy and RCE T0's? Better yet, how do these 3 brands compare in terms of performance?

[HamburgerSushi]

So I've been choosing lowering springs and I just can't make a decision.

I hear resounding reviews for the RCE Yellow springs, especially with the Sachs dampers that come with the PP. They have the same spring rate at all four corners.

Eibach Pro kit & corresponding H&R springs are supposed to be about the same (maybe a bit better) in terms of comfort but less optimal for handling. They both have firmer springs in the front and softer springs in the back which is the same pattern that is seen with the stock springs.

My understanding is that softer rear springs, while allowing for more body roll, will allow for more compliance with the road via the wheels that put down the power, while stiffer springs will be more permissive of the car breaking loose but allow for better handling until that point.

I guess my question is for RCE: why the square spring rate setup? Is it for these reasons or others?

Thank you in advance.

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by HamburgerSushi

So I've been choosing lowering springs and I just can't make a decision.

I hear resounding reviews for the RCE Yellow springs, especially with the Sachs dampers that come with the PP. They have the same spring rate at all four corners.

Eibach Pro kit & corresponding H&R springs are supposed to be about the same (maybe a bit better) in terms of comfort but less optimal for handling. They both have firmer springs in the front and softer springs in the back which is the same pattern that is seen with the stock springs.

My understanding is that softer rear springs, while allowing for more body roll, will allow for more compliance with the road via the wheels that put down the power, while stiffer springs will be more permissive of the car breaking loose but allow for better handling until that point.

I guess my question is for RCE: why the square spring rate setup? Is it for these reasons or others?

Thank you in advance.

Here's a recent post on the topic:

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

One of the concerns with a lowering spring is that since you're restricted to relatively soft rates that have to work with the stock shocks, it's likely that you will be on the bumpstops when cornering hard. Even stock suspension is very bumpstop active. For any spring that lowers significantly, the listed spring rates is only part of the equation. Our springs use firmer front springs than most to help reduce the progressive ramp up in front wheel rate due to the bumpstop effect (and we also include shorter bumpstops).

We also looked at suspension geometry during body roll in the front vs. rear in terms of dynamic alignment changes and roll center. Most street cars running lowering springs aren't running a ton of front camber, so a firmer front helps make the most of what you have.

For coilovers with stiffer spring rates that are kept more flat in a corner, rear biased spring rates can work well and we do offer that as an option. The default is even rates as we feel that is a good way to go for MOST drivers.

- Andrew

[tawheed]

Does anyone have any real world feedback on the Blitz ZZ-R Spec DSC? They come with electronic damping adjustment. Spring rates look weird to me being 6F 4R.

Front - 6.0 kg/mm, adjustable pillowball upper mount
Rear - 4.0 kg/mm, solid rubber upper mount
32-way single adjustment damper
Includes remote adjustment via in-cabin electronic control
DSC electronic control can be integrated with Blitz Touch-B.R.A.I.N. for datalogging and analysis
Improves road feel and handling
Comfortable street ride
1-year transferrable warranty from date of purchase

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by Jarlax

I plan on running Michelin pilot super sports or equivalent. I worded it in a confusing manner. But I think the stiffness of the Greddy x kw and the RCE T2 are the ideal stiffness I want. However, in terms of price, the Greddy coilovers are closer in terms of price to the RCE T0. My question is, am I sacrificing that much performance if I were to go for the softer RCE T0's, instead of the Greddy coilovers?

Edit:
I'm also looking into the Tein Flex Z and Flex A. How are they compared to the Greddy and RCE T0's? Better yet, how do these 3 brands compare in terms of performance?

The T0 are plenty firm enough for most and are a good match for Michelin PSS. Adjustment is nice to have, but not a must have IMO if the basic valving is good. In terms of performance the T2s would be at the top, and I'd put the T0 and Greddys above the Teins. The Teins are just valved quite soft.

FYI the Greddy coilovers use the same galvanized finish as the ST coilovers and not the inox stainless like RCE and KW. I think you know that but just pointing it out.

- Andrew

[avishenoy1]

Hi, I would like some advice before upgrading to coilovers. My car is my warm weather DD and sees some fairly bumpy roads in CT due to harsh winters. I've been doing about 1-2 track days a month in the summer for the past 2 years and am looking for solid track performance and decent road comfort.

My current setup is: Bilstein B8s, TRD lowering springs, Raceseng cascam front, stock top hats rear, Hotchkis sway bars front and rear (both on softest setting), TRD strut bar, Velox Rear LCAs, 17x9 Volk CE28RTs, 245/40/17 Hankook RS4.

I'm running -2.5 deg front and -2.0 deg rear camber and 0 toe

This setup feels very well balanced on track with minimal body roll and is slightly prone to oversteer on corner exit if I get on the throttle too quickly. I can push the tires to the limit and the car doesn't feel like its riding on the bump stops even in high g corners.

On the street I find that at low to medium speeds the suspension feels overdampened and does not do a good job of absorbing even small bumps or road imperfections. At high speeds the ride quality is much smoother but the rear will bottom out quite often.

I am looking for a coilover that will outperform my current setup on track but is adjustable for softer compression and better compliance for street use. Some more rear shock travel would be nice but I don't want to sacrifice performance.


My budget is 2-2.5k and I'm leaning toward the Ohlins R&T but am unsure whether to get the MI-20 or MP-20.

I think the MP-20 would offer good ride quality and I could compensate for body roll by increasing sway stiffness on the hotchkis bars. However, I'm leaning toward getting a used MI-20 set as I think this will offer more of an improvement on track.

Any input would be appreciated. Thanks.

[Spacemane969]

Hey guys, I'm about an inch lowered on TRD springs and I'm looking to either stiffen the suspension or tweak my alignment to reduce understeer and bump-steer.

What are my cheapest and least complicated options to start? I'd rather not go down the mod rabbit hole, and want to stay as close to stock as possible. Ride comfort is not really a concern but I do daily my 86.

Thanks!

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by avishenoy1

Hi, I would like some advice before upgrading to coilovers. My car is my warm weather DD and sees some fairly bumpy roads in CT due to harsh winters. I've been doing about 1-2 track days a month in the summer for the past 2 years and am looking for solid track performance and decent road comfort.

My current setup is: Bilstein B8s, TRD lowering springs, Raceseng cascam front, stock top hats rear, Hotchkis sway bars front and rear (both on softest setting), TRD strut bar, Velox Rear LCAs, 17x9 Volk CE28RTs, 245/40/17 Hankook RS4.

I'm running -2.5 deg front and -2.0 deg rear camber and 0 toe

This setup feels very well balanced on track with minimal body roll and is slightly prone to oversteer on corner exit if I get on the throttle too quickly. I can push the tires to the limit and the car doesn't feel like its riding on the bump stops even in high g corners.

On the street I find that at low to medium speeds the suspension feels overdampened and does not do a good job of absorbing even small bumps or road imperfections. At high speeds the ride quality is much smoother but the rear will bottom out quite often.

I am looking for a coilover that will outperform my current setup on track but is adjustable for softer compression and better compliance for street use. Some more rear shock travel would be nice but I don't want to sacrifice performance.


My budget is 2-2.5k and I'm leaning toward the Ohlins R&T but am unsure whether to get the MI-20 or MP-20.

I think the MP-20 would offer good ride quality and I could compensate for body roll by increasing sway stiffness on the hotchkis bars. However, I'm leaning toward getting a used MI-20 set as I think this will offer more of an improvement on track.

Any input would be appreciated. Thanks.

The MP-20 kit would get you better ride quality, but is likely a bit softer than the springs you have now. With those tires, I'm not sure it's the best match even with increasing the swaybar stiffness. I would prefer the old Ohlins.

- Andrew

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by Spacemane969

Hey guys, I'm about an inch lowered on TRD springs and I'm looking to either stiffen the suspension or tweak my alignment to reduce understeer and bump-steer.

What are my cheapest and least complicated options to start? I'd rather not go down the mod rabbit hole, and want to stay as close to stock as possible. Ride comfort is not really a concern but I do daily my 86.

Thanks!

A set of SPC 14mm camber bolts for the bottom hole on the lower strut mount. Move the OEM bottom bolt to the top.

- Andrew