KPower Industries K24 swap

[Irace86.2.0]

Originally Posted by Ebush

If I remember correctly it was in the wiring box right? Maybe a new ECU mount? I have no clue. I forgot all about it and I’m now at just over 500 miles with the swap. For the most part I’ve forgotten I even swapped the car. It starts up like stock and drives like a stock car. But that’s exactly what I wanted. It does feel faster in the corners, but in a straight line it’s still slow. I imagine swapping an LS into the car makes it feel like a totally different car (I’ve had an ls swapped s2000, s14, and a few rx7’s and they kinda lost their original feeling). So I’m very happy that the 86 maintained it’s character.

Now go down the rabbit hole of NA modz: cams, E85, etc. It is boost for me.

[Ebush]

Originally Posted by Irace86.2.0

Now go down the rabbit hole of NA modz: cams, E85, etc. It is boost for me.

I’m fairly happy as is, but do plan to eventually freshen up the motor. So I’ll likely just do some cheap nippon pistons to get the compression up around 12:1, new oem bearings, new head gasket, valve seals, springs, and a mild cam. Basically just a $2000 refresh of the engine. I don’t need a 4piston head-although I really want a crazy 4piston NA engine. It’s just not needed for my purposes. It’s a daily driver other than the few times a year I make it down to tail of the dragon.

[captain awesome]

Originally Posted by Ebush

For the most part I’ve forgotten I even swapped the car. It starts up like stock and drives like a stock car. But that’s exactly what I wanted. It does feel faster in the corners, but in a straight line it’s still slow. I imagine swapping an LS into the car makes it feel like a totally different car (I’ve had an ls swapped s2000, s14, and a few rx7’s and they kinda lost their original feeling). So I’m very happy that the 86 maintained it’s character.

About the same thoughts here. I think it feels better than the NA modded fa20 I had. Being able to rev higher is nice. Going to schedule a time to hit the dyno soon, then after that I'll run e85 for a bit and re-dyno.



I have a slight low speed on throttle buck that I need to sort out, and I think driveshaft vibration similar to what I've read most 86 single aluminum driveshaft swaps produce. I may get my stock one shortened locally.

[Ebush]

Originally Posted by captain awesome

About the same thoughts here.



I have a slight low speed on throttle buck that I need to sort out, and I think driveshaft vibration similar to what I've read most 86 single aluminum driveshaft swaps produce. I may get my stock one shortened locally.

I wonder if the angle of the trans could be causing a slight vibration, mine is pushed all the way to the driver side.

[captain awesome]

Originally Posted by Ebush

I wonder if the angle of the trans could be causing a slight vibration, mine is pushed all the way to the driver side.

It's certainly plausible. The timing/RPM of the vibration and duration of the vibration being longer in a higher gear is what lead me to thinking about switching driveshafts. Honestly I didn't want a 1 piece shaft from the get go but piecing the kit together to skip it didn't make sense. I'm still not sure if that's what it is or if I can even shorten the stock one and it still work properly. Gotta get under the car and do some measurements then talk to the guy doing the work. I have pushed the trans a little more driver side already, but could always try a little more and see if it changes anything.


Is yours doing the same thing? RPMs it is most prevalent is 3500-5k especially higher gear and climbing a hill. In lower gears it's so short of a duration it doesn't seem like a big deal.

[Ebush]

Originally Posted by captain awesome

It's certainly plausible. The timing/RPM of the vibration and duration of the vibration being longer in a higher gear is what lead me to thinking about switching driveshafts. Honestly I didn't want a 1 piece shaft from the get go but piecing the kit together to skip it didn't make sense. I'm still not sure if that's what it is or if I can even shorten the stock one and it still work properly. Gotta get under the car and do some measurements then talk to the guy doing the work. I have pushed the trans a little more driver side already, but could always try a little more and see if it changes anything.


Is yours doing the same thing? RPMs it is most prevalent is 3500-5k especially higher gear and climbing a hill. In lower gears it's so short of a duration it doesn't seem like a big deal.

I haven’t noticed anything other than my IRP shifter rattling like normal and then a bit of trans vibration on decel. I’m not positive if the “trans vibration” I get is from touching the chassis or if it’s just the shifter making more noise on Decel. Car is super quiet inside though when just cruising, and the one time I got on the highway for 15 miles I cruised at 80ish (close to 4K rpm for me) and didn’t notice any vibrations.

[geraldjust]

Ok guys.. So if anyone that has a kei running and going.. What's your consumption. From a full tank of gas, so when your car stalled /ran out of fuel. ( do not use your fuel level as a guide to calculate the fuel usage. or the MPG meter either). Im asking because some of you guys that have the 1/4 tank issue i want to see what your real world MPG. So divide the fuel tank size with the miles you actually ran till empty to get actual usage.

Also could whose of you have the issue let me know? i wanna get a solid tally of how many of you guys are having this issue too.

Gerald R.

[captain awesome]

Originally Posted by geraldjust

Ok guys.. So if anyone that has a kei running and going.. What's your consumption. From a full tank of gas, so when your car stalled /ran out of fuel. ( do not use your fuel level as a guide to calculate the fuel usage. or the MPG meter either). Im asking because some of you guys that have the 1/4 tank issue i want to see what your real world MPG. So divide the fuel tank size with the miles you actually ran till empty to get actual usage.

Also could whose of you have the issue let me know? i wanna get a solid tally of how many of you guys are having this issue too.

Gerald R.

I won’t be running my car to full empty but I do calculate miles to gallon based on trip meter and then gallons on next fill up. I filled up this morning with a hair over 10 gallons with an average of 22 MPG as I ran 220 miles. My level still showed a hair over half tank.

[zuldajin]

Originally Posted by captain awesome

I won’t be running my car to full empty but I do calculate miles to gallon based on trip meter and then gallons on next fill up. I filled up this morning with a hair over 10 gallons with an average of 22 MPG as I ran 220 miles. My level still showed a hair over half tank.

Then your fuel gauge might not be accurate.

Frs/brz fuel tank is 13~gal or 50L
It must have been less than half tank if it took over 10gal.

[captain awesome]

Almost 700 miles so far and still overall happy.


Vibration I think is related to the trans tunnel clearance like Ebush suspected and not driveshaft. I think. I spent some time sustaining the RPM that vibration is most prevalent, and when I place my hand near where the trans could touch on the passenger tunnel carpet, it's the source of it. Moving my hand around I can pinpoint it exactly. I can touch the driver side tunnel and while there is some vibration the source appears to be passenger side where the clearance was tight. Going to investigate further when I change the oil in a month or so. Probably pull the whole enchilada and do some trans tunnel bashing.


Transient throttle or decel cut is janky as hell right now. If I'm in low rpm anywhere between 3k and 2k with little throttle input it bucks. With more throttle it smooths out. With less or just a hair touch of the pedal it doesn't seem to know what to do. I've tinkered a bit with decel settings in the Haltech but doesn't seem to make a difference. Also have where idle wants to hang when coming to a stop hovering around 1200 for a second or two then dropping to normal 1000 I set idle at. Going to be looking at some remote tuning by someone that knows what the hell they are doing soon if I don't get it sorted quick.

[Irace86.2.0]

Did you guys just use the base VE and AFR maps that Haltech/KP supplies and then apply LTFR learning to adjust the base map, or has anyone actually dyno'd their car besides visbits?

Also, I haven't seen anything from KP with a solution or acknowledgment of a problem with the fuel gauge. Did I miss it?

[captain awesome]

Originally Posted by Irace86.2.0

Did you guys just use the base VE and AFR maps that Haltech/KP supplies and then apply LTFR learning to adjust the base map, or has anyone actually dyno'd their car besides visbits?

Also, I haven't seen anything from KP with a solution or acknowledgment of a problem with the fuel gauge. Did I miss it?

Mine is set to learning but I don't know if it's making any difference. Looking at a remote tuner now to have some possible adjustments before I dyno.

[Ebush]

I talked to David and he said he had the issue but didn’t think it was a swap related issue. But that since we are all having the issue he will look into it. That was last week when I ran out of gas.

I’ve been meaning to hook my laptop back up to see how the learning is going and if it continues to learn every day without the laptop. I’ve got it set on the default 20 percent, and I spent about a week apply the learned values to my base map. Once the car was doing good I stopped taking my laptop with me, but left the self learn on.

I tried to use the self learn option for knock detection to adjust timing, but with my trans vibration that was impossible, I had to take the knock frequency from 7600 to like 10000 in order to not always get knock, so I decided it wasn’t safe to let the ecu keep adding timing all over the place with the modified knock detection.

I’ve never been able to get my idle much less than 1200. No matter what I set it to. At first it was idling up around 1400 (no vacuum leaks or anything, but I do have a 72mm throttle body). Only way I could get the idle to come down was with fuel and timing adjustments. It’s a quiet 1200 rpm though.

[captain awesome]

My idle will go to 1k no problem, just not on decel when pulled to a stop for a few seconds. It just kinda hangs. Even worse if you have windshield venting due to A/c switching I suppose. Which is weird because I turned off that setting on decel and it shouldn't add RPM.