KPower Industries K24 swap

[Ebush]

Originally Posted by captain awesome

60s I believe was temp. Sitting and getting heat soaked in the garage it opens fine. When I'm driving it down the road it's just not getting enough heat to open the thermostat but enough to kick on the fans? I get hot air into the cabin just fine because anything on the passenger side all the way to the thermostat is hot. The only thing not hot is the lower rad hose. Maybe I'm just not getting it hot enough and it's a non issue like you say. The problem I see is that the fans can't get the car cool enough when pulled back into the garage to shut off. Then it just hovers at 96 c with the fans never shutting off. They are programmed to shut off around 88 c if I remember correctly but it can't seem to get anywhere near low enough.


DBW percentage is 3 percent at idle or even not running. I'll keep messing with it and try to make it trip up again in a more controlled environment. I'd like to disable it going into limp mode but need to do more research to see if I even can.

I’m not sure if it actually helped, but I drilled three 1/8” holes in my thermostat. It’s just the oem thermostat that probably came On the tsx back in 2004. Not sure if you want to continue reading in Celsius or not, but I believe there is a ruler in one of the top task bars and that allows You to change what each reading is. Hopefully you get yours sorted soon.

[captain awesome]

Originally Posted by Ebush

I’m not sure if it actually helped, but I drilled three 1/8” holes in my thermostat. It’s just the oem thermostat that probably came On the tsx back in 2004. Not sure if you want to continue reading in Celsius or not, but I believe there is a ruler in one of the top task bars and that allows You to change what each reading is. Hopefully you get yours sorted soon.

There's a few I'd like to change so I can stop trying to convert units. I'll look into it this afternoon.

[captain awesome]

Unit conversion made a huge difference in my MAP readings being easier to follow. Also with coolant and oil.

I managed to figure out the throttle issue. I forgot that I spaced the throttle pedal out but didn’t add to the stopper. This was allowing it to go past the threshold and causing limp mode. Easy fix.

Getting some tires installed now and will put some miles in today.

[captain awesome]

I weighed my car before the swap with a tick over a quarter tank of gas and a slightly lighter muffler. This car was an automatic without any mods, and as far as I can tell was only missing the front bumper styrofoam and some of the trunk accessories. Weight was 2753 pounds.


Today I weighed the car again with very small differences other than a tick over 3/4 tank of gas. It weighed in at 2702 pounds. At first I was a bit pissed cause it appeared to be only about 51 pounds of weight loss and I probably had lost a couple pounds switching to a non spoiler trunk AND I started off with the chunky automatic.


BUT I forgot about the extra half a tank of gas. So I subtracted 6.5 gallons of gas weighing roughly 6 pounds each. That would put me at around 90 pounds of weight loss. I'm happy about that. I think it could be a couple pounds more than that as I added a stock muffler back to replace the Works resonated one but can't find my notes on the weight differences between the two.


SO let's assume anywhere between 90-100 pound loss if starting with an automatic. I'll go over the cross weight difference later when I get a chance.

[Ebush]

Originally Posted by captain awesome

I weighed my car before the swap with a tick over a quarter tank of gas and a slightly lighter muffler. This car was an automatic without any mods, and as far as I can tell was only missing the front bumper styrofoam and some of the trunk accessories. Weight was 2753 pounds.


Today I weighed the car again with very small differences other than a tick over 3/4 tank of gas. It weighed in at 2702 pounds. At first I was a bit pissed cause it appeared to be only about 51 pounds of weight loss and I probably had lost a couple pounds switching to a non spoiler trunk AND I started off with the chunky automatic.


BUT I forgot about the extra half a tank of gas. So I subtracted 6.5 gallons of gas weighing roughly 6 pounds each. That would put me at around 90 pounds of weight loss. I'm happy about that. I think it could be a couple pounds more than that as I added a stock muffler back to replace the Works resonated one but can't find my notes on the weight differences between the two.


SO let's assume anywhere between 90-100 pound loss if starting with an automatic. I'll go over the cross weight difference later when I get a chance.

I would imagine the Auto weighs more than the MT but not sure on actual numbers. To be atleast 40 pounds off from Kpowers numbers makes me wonder who's scale was wrong. The muffler definetly doesn't weigh 40 pounds more either. What type of scale was used, and if it was just one at a truck stop or scrap yard how long ago was the stock weight done? edit - just noticed you mentioned cross weight so Im guessing you have a set of scales at home.

[captain awesome]

Originally Posted by Ebush

I would imagine the Auto weighs more than the MT but not sure on actual numbers. To be atleast 40 pounds off from Kpowers numbers makes me wonder who's scale was wrong. The muffler definetly doesn't weigh 40 pounds more either. What type of scale was used, and if it was just one at a truck stop or scrap yard how long ago was the stock weight done? edit - just noticed you mentioned cross weight so Im guessing you have a set of scales at home.

Same set of Proform scales for each weighing. I wanna say the muffler was around 5 pounds heavier but need to check my other notebook to confirm.

I also never thought that Kpowers figures were a proper apples to apples comparison.

[Four_wheel_drifts]

Captain, did you detail the auto to manual swap in the forum? Automatic cars seem to sell for a few thousand cheaper here in the PNW, but I didn’t consider them an option for me.

[captain awesome]

Originally Posted by Four_wheel_drifts

Captain, did you detail the auto to manual swap in the forum? Automatic cars seem to sell for a few thousand cheaper here in the PNW, but I didn’t consider them an option for me.

I didn’t post up anything here. Basically you have to swap the whole engine bay harness, ABS unit, dash harness, pedal assembly, trans, etc. There’s a thread here somewhere I got info from but my only advice is be very diligent in getting the same year, model, and spec harnesses to match. Climate control and push button or key have to match.

[Irace86.2.0]

Steel vs aluminum flywheel? What clutch? Did you remove everything that makes the auto an auto like is there extra ECUs or wiring or anything else? Is there an auto tranny cooler?

[captain awesome]

Originally Posted by Irace86.2.0

Steel vs aluminum flywheel? What clutch? Did you remove everything that makes the auto an auto like is there extra ECUs or wiring or anything else? Is there an auto tranny cooler?

Steel flywheel, OEM Exedy clutch. All harnesses swapped to manual and all auto stuff removed. It’s as if it started as a manual.

[Irace86.2.0]

Originally Posted by captain awesome

Steel flywheel, OEM Exedy clutch. All harnesses swapped to manual and all auto stuff removed. It’s as if it started as a manual.

So that is only 5.5lbs difference over the aluminum flywheel. Weird. Is there more oil in this motor?

[captain awesome]

Originally Posted by Irace86.2.0

So that is only 5.5lbs difference over the aluminum flywheel. Weird. Is there more oil in this motor?

Stock fa20 is 5.7 quarts and I'm running 6.5 I think with the k24.


I measured the Works resonated muffler axleback and it's about 10 pounds less than a stock muffler based on other posted weights.


So it's looking more like ~100 pounds compared to the automatic I started with. I started to check cross weights but then realized I swapped out to CSG Tein Flex A's. Weight for these coils were so close to stock it seemed irrelevant to the overall weight but for cross could easily be off just because of the ride height adjustment being ever so slightly different. Also the fact that I have half a tank of gas more now than previous also makes it difficult to properly compare.



So, I failed to really put together a good before and after comparison like I had hoped. I don't feel like swapping the stock suspension back, nor the trunk with wing, nor the muffler, nor draining roughly half a tank of gas. I mainly just wanted to know what the general weight loss would be. I think I've achieved that, just would have been nicer to compare to a manual car first and all the little bits staying exactly the same.



Also more food for thought. I think it's a better comparison to check weight against a catless header and front piped fa20 car to the Kpower weight. So many variables though.

[pgranberg11]

Originally Posted by captain awesome

So since I'm sitting on my rump at work bored I figure it's a good time to go over how I plumbed the flex fuel sensor.


First thing first. Parts list with some breakdown on price.


13507128 ACDelco/Continental flex sensor. Musta been a flash sale because they are around $50 now but I got it for $38 on Prime.


Vibrant 12275 pinch clamps $8.50 but only need 2 total for this.


8 pin connector 90980-10896 with pins that will plug into the stock AC2 harness connector was $20.90 and the only item I'm waiting to receive.



Boost Monkey flex fuel pigtail for $13.13. This means I only have to crimp 3 pins to the AC2 plug.


Gates 27335 5/16" fuel line. I bought 10' for $19.80 through Rockauto but maybe used a foot at best?


Dorman quick connects 800091 and 800085 for under $3 each. Also purchased through Rockauto. I only needed one 90 degree fitting and one of the straights so you will have a leftover.


Maxwell Manufacturing flex fuel billet mount for $28 on ebay.


Combined with the Kpower fuel supply line this is really all that's needed.



I took a spare bracket that was used for the stock intake box and flattened a spot for it to be bolted to the strut tower brace bolt. The Maxwell bracket bolted to it, and the lines point perfectly to the connectors. Into the sensor from the stock fuel hard line is a fuel clamped 5/16" hose feeding a 90 degree Dorman quick release clamped with the Vibrant crimp ring. Then a straight Dorman fitting crimped to the provided Kpower line which has a quick connect to their fuel rail. The Boost Monkey pigtail will pin to the AC2 plug and the rest is all settings to configure in the Haltech.

curious on how you plugged it into the haltech. AC2 plug, I'm not familiar with the plug terms yet/what this plug is referring to. I haven't gotten my kit yet (I will be this Friday) and I'm stuck on the FlexFuel part as well. thanks

[captain awesome]

Originally Posted by pgranberg11

curious on how you plugged it into the haltech. AC2 plug, I'm not familiar with the plug terms yet/what this plug is referring to. I haven't gotten my kit yet (I will be this Friday) and I'm stuck on the FlexFuel part as well. thanks

It's the gray plug that's not used with the Kpower harness next to the large engine harness plug. I hopefully will have my connector this week to officially plug it all in. Right now it's just flowing through the sensor but no data is being sent to the Haltech.