Edelbrock E-force Owner's thread and FAQs (Frequently Asked Questions)

[CallmeDave]

Well Edelbrock took a few days to return my calls and emails. There saying there going to send the claim to the warranty department and they might decide to send me a replacement bypass valve. The other thing they said is they will be sending me out a original bypass valve not the redesign one….that’s the upgrade kit and they will charge me for it.
$5000 and mine failed in maybe 8k miles seems pretty rude to me.

I haven’t been driving my car while waiting for responses so I already ordered the “upgrade kit” from summit racing.
So honestly how hard is it to replace the bypass valve without taking the supercharger off? I only seen one post that said it wasn’t to bad.

[FrickingReallySlow]

Originally Posted by CallmeDave

Well Edelbrock took a few days to return my calls and emails. There saying there going to send the claim to the warranty department and they might decide to send me a replacement bypass valve. The other thing they said is they will be sending me out a original bypass valve not the redesign one….that’s the upgrade kit and they will charge me for it.
$5000 and mine failed in maybe 8k miles seems pretty rude to me.

I haven’t been driving my car while waiting for responses so I already ordered the “upgrade kit” from summit racing.
So honestly how hard is it to replace the bypass valve without taking the supercharger off? I only seen one post that said it wasn’t to bad.

Its tricky and based on the history you can read from earlier posts of those, I'd just pay for the new valve if you have to get this done. Depending on when you bought the kit circa 2020 EB was replacing them for free if you bought during the time we were changing over. Neal at the racer's line in Norcal supposedly was able to do it with the manifold on, it has to be adjusted just right so maybe look for an 86 specialist in your area

[CallmeDave]

We got the new bypass valve installed. We found it easier to remove the AC condenser to gain access to install the bypass with the bracket installed.
Also note the size the difference in the old and new bypass.

[BrahmaBull1990]

I have my second dealership oil change in about 300 miles. I can't wait to see the tech's face when he sees the Edelbrock..he thought the headers where cool. This is also when I show them my extended powertrain warranty is voided lol

Anyways, I prepaid maintenance like an herb, so I have 4 more oil changes by the dealer. Should I just let them put in the Subaru 0w-20 synthetic with a Subaru filter or bring some Motul Eco Lite Ow-20 as that is in it now; courtesy of the shop that filled it after the Edelbrock install? I figure Subaru's synthetic is just fine with 3k oil change intervals.

I may also ask about switching to 5w-30 but at I have seen @CSG Mike say over-and-over, if you have an oil cooler, just run ow-20 for DD'ing.

FWIW 246whp and 220ft/lbs tq

[B T]

I'd say it just depends on how hard you're beating on it. For daily driving the synthetic Subaru stuff should be fine. Even my fully built motor from IAG quotes 0W-20.

[FrickingReallySlow]

an herb? lol you generally want the same synthetic brand since the additive packages are different from brand to brand and you don't want them conflicting with each other. especially since subaru will be doing a quick change. So if you got Motul in their now, just stick to it but can change viscosity (additives don't change)

What viscosity you go with has a lot to do with your climate, degree of hoonery , tracking, or DD/Grocery getting your car will do.

I would get a pressure gauge as ultimately that's what you should be using to determine what viscosity you want.

I personally run 5W-20 because I'm in the bay area, its the coolest part of the country in the summer time and my car is a grocery getter / weekend on ramp canyon hooner. My oil temps never go above 240F and I don't have an oil cooler. I also don't bang off the rev limiter

normally 90% of the engine wear comes from starting so you want high flow and lubrication in cold starts if you do that a lot (grocery getting). you want the lowest viscosity oil that can maintain the rated oil pressure of your application (avg RPM / temp). If you decide to go with thicker oil make sure you also have higher flow oil filters.

Originally Posted by BrahmaBull1990

I have my second dealership oil change in about 300 miles. I can't wait to see the tech's face when he sees the Edelbrock..he thought the headers where cool. This is also when I show them my extended powertrain warranty is voided lol

Anyways, I prepaid maintenance like an herb, so I have 4 more oil changes by the dealer. Should I just let them put in the Subaru 0w-20 synthetic with a Subaru filter or bring some Motul Eco Lite Ow-20 as that is in it now; courtesy of the shop that filled it after the Edelbrock install? I figure Subaru's synthetic is just fine with 3k oil change intervals.

I may also ask about switching to 5w-30 but at I have seen @CSG Mike say over-and-over, if you have an oil cooler, just run ow-20 for DD'ing.

FWIW 246whp and 220ft/lbs tq

[BrahmaBull1990]

Originally Posted by FrickingReallySlow

an herb? lol you generally want the same synthetic brand since the additive packages are different from brand to brand and you don't want them conflicting with each other. especially since subaru will be doing a quick change. So if you got Motul in their now, just stick to it but can change viscosity (additives don't change)

What viscosity you go with has a lot to do with your climate, degree of hoonery , tracking, or DD/Grocery getting your car will do.

I would get a pressure gauge as ultimately that's what you should be using to determine what viscosity you want.

I personally run 5W-20 because I'm in the bay area, its the coolest part of the country in the summer time and my car is a grocery getter / weekend on ramp canyon hooner. My oil temps never go above 240F and I don't have an oil cooler. I also don't bang off the rev limiter

normally 90% of the engine wear comes from starting so you want high flow and lubrication in cold starts if you do that a lot (grocery getting). you want the lowest viscosity oil that can maintain the rated oil pressure of your application (avg RPM / temp). If you decide to go with thicker oil make sure you also have higher flow oil filters.

Perfect! Thank you very much. I will bring some motul with me for the oil change. I am up North near Seattle, so our climate is similar. We drive very similar; groceries and occasional weekend back road hooning. I have a Forester oil XT oil regulator which keeps temps below 220* even when hooning. I will probably stick with Ow-20 since I do not touch redline and I want that cold start protection.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by BrahmaBull1990

I have my second dealership oil change in about 300 miles. I can't wait to see the tech's face when he sees the Edelbrock..he thought the headers where cool. This is also when I show them my extended powertrain warranty is voided lol

Anyways, I prepaid maintenance like an herb, so I have 4 more oil changes by the dealer. Should I just let them put in the Subaru 0w-20 synthetic with a Subaru filter or bring some Motul Eco Lite Ow-20 as that is in it now; courtesy of the shop that filled it after the Edelbrock install? I figure Subaru's synthetic is just fine with 3k oil change intervals.

I may also ask about switching to 5w-30 but at I have seen @CSG Mike say over-and-over, if you have an oil cooler, just run ow-20 for DD'ing.

FWIW 246whp and 220ft/lbs tq

If your oil temps are well in check, 0W20 is fine. 30 weight for margin is okay, and I'm fairly certain MPG isn't your main concern if you're boosted!

[haohmaru]

Originally Posted by CallmeDave

We got the new bypass valve installed. We found it easier to remove the AC condenser to gain access to install the bypass with the bracket installed.
Also note the size the difference in the old and new bypass.

Do you have the part number for the new bypass valve?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[CallmeDave]

Originally Posted by haohmaru

Do you have the part number for the new bypass valve?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-15001

[brandonblt2]

Alright guys look like I'm back and having issues again. This time I'm getting codes:


P0172 - System too Rich Bank 1
P117B - Direct Injector Fuel Performance Does not Come on DTC
P1170 - Port Injector Fuel Performance Does not come on DTC
C1201


Pretty sure C1201 is just limp mode due to the other CEL's being tripped. I had similar issues before with the car running terrible with lost of power, rough idle, and delayed throttle response. Fixed that by changing the port Fuel Injectors since they had 160k miles on them. About 10k miles later its running terrible again. I'm now leaning towards my fuel pump being bad since I got both CEL's for port and direct injectors not coming on. I know the port injectors should be fine so I'm guessing its gotta be do to the fuel pressure. Let me know what you guys think. Also any easy way of checking the fuel pump before buying another part?

[FrickingReallySlow]

Think you mentioned your O2 sensor when I PM'ed you earlier about the same problem, did you have that checked?

I think in datalogs you can also check fuel rail pressure vs fuel rail pressure commanded to see if there's discrepancies

Originally Posted by brandonblt2

Alright guys look like I'm back and having issues again. This time I'm getting codes:


P0172 - System too Rich Bank 1
P117B - Direct Injector Fuel Performance Does not Come on DTC
P1170 - Port Injector Fuel Performance Does not come on DTC
C1201


Pretty sure C1201 is just limp mode due to the other CEL's being tripped. I had similar issues before with the car running terrible with lost of power, rough idle, and delayed throttle response. Fixed that by changing the port Fuel Injectors since they had 160k miles on them. About 10k miles later its running terrible again. I'm now leaning towards my fuel pump being bad since I got both CEL's for port and direct injectors not coming on. I know the port injectors should be fine so I'm guessing its gotta be do to the fuel pressure. Let me know what you guys think. Also any easy way of checking the fuel pump before buying another part?

[brandonblt2]

Originally Posted by FrickingReallySlow

Think you mentioned your O2 sensor when I PM'ed you earlier about the same problem, did you have that checked?

I think in datalogs you can also check fuel rail pressure vs fuel rail pressure commanded to see if there's discrepancies

Haven't checked it yet but symptoms don't seem to match an O2 sensor going out. I'll do some datalogging to check fuel pressure differences thanks.

[dpfarr]

I bought my kit used and dude fucked up and included stock tb coolant lines. I’ve been searching around on the edelbrock site and there doesn’t seem a clear option to buy new lines.

Anyone ever have to do this or have luck with similar unlucky circumstances?