Edelbrock E-force Owner's thread and FAQs (Frequently Asked Questions)

[aKaGorganZola]

I threw in the act heavy duty pp and organic clutch disc with their streetlite flywheel and it feels great. It takes a little getting used to the lighter flywheel but the way it shifts through the gears now feels amazing. I'm currently waiting on some tech support for my SC but it should be more than enough to handle it until I build my motor. I think it's rated right around 280ftlbs

[jflogerzi]

Originally Posted by ArrrBussiere

I am going to comb through some clutch threads here shortly but figured I would try to mitigate a ton of reading about non-SC cars and ask my fellow charged brethren right off the get-go, haha



I will look into that company! The comp stage 2 is rated to 225 at the wheels which is probably just fine, but I also know the car puts down around 280 so I'd like to find something that is closer in rating to the one you suggested! Time for more research!

I am gonna second south bend stage 2. Have this with my car in sig and it feels just like OEM with but a tinny bit more effort to engage. After a while it just feels OEM.

Sent from my GM1915 using Tapatalk

[ArrrBussiere]

Originally Posted by aKaGorganZola

I threw in the act heavy duty pp and organic clutch disc with their streetlite flywheel and it feels great. It takes a little getting used to the lighter flywheel but the way it shifts through the gears now feels amazing. I'm currently waiting on some tech support for my SC but it should be more than enough to handle it until I build my motor. I think it's rated right around 280ftlbs

Originally Posted by jflogerzi

I am gonna second south bend stage 2. Have this with my car in sig and it feels just like OEM with but a tinny bit more effort to engage. After a while it just feels OEM.

Sent from my GM1915 using Tapatalk

I ended up going with the South Bend stage 2 - will assess flywheel at time of replacement and gauge whether I want to resurface it or go with a new one.

Also doing rear main seal at the same time as well

Thanks everyone!!

[MaxTurbo]

Originally Posted by ArrrBussiere

I ended up going with the South Bend stage 2 - will assess flywheel at time of replacement and gauge whether I want to resurface it or go with a new one.

Also doing rear main seal at the same time as well

Thanks everyone!!

You definitely should resurface it. Almost every clutch I have installed requires it in the instruction. Alternatively the Exedy (OEM supplier) flywheel is pretty cheap. Anyway you go, have a new surface for the new clutch. Another tip is having a metal centering tool. The plastic ones bend and makes it hard to center it correctly.

I went with an ACT kit, but regret bit not staying with a stock flywheel.

[ArrrBussiere]

Originally Posted by MaxTurbo

You definitely should resurface it. Almost every clutch I have installed requires it in the instruction. Alternatively the Exedy (OEM supplier) flywheel is pretty cheap. Anyway you go, have a new surface for the new clutch. Another tip is having a metal centering tool. The plastic ones bend and makes it hard to center it correctly.

I went with an ACT kit, but regret bit not staying with a stock flywheel.

Oh no, I am definitely resurfacing at the minimum. I just meant I will assess the flywheel and decide on whether I want a replacement at the time of install.

[taiguy]

Has anyone had issues passing OBD monitor readiness checks while having the kit installed? On the delicious tune, my oyxgen sensor monitor would never register as complete, even after a reset and 300 miles of highway and city driving. Unhooked the D-Box and went back to the Edelbrock CARB tune, 120 miles later and now my oxygen sensor monitor is complete but the Evap system monitor is incomplete. I'm doing aimless drives on the highway at 55mph to try and trigger the test.

[Silvermk2]

Usually the EVAP monitor needs the fuel tank to be refueled or at a certain level for a certain amount of time to complete.

[taiguy]

Originally Posted by Silvermk2

Usually the EVAP monitor needs the fuel tank to be refueled or at a certain level for a certain amount of time to complete.

makes sense. had to disconnect the battery recently, so I'll be starting at square 1 again. the hard part is finding excuses to drive anywhere these days.

[jmai]

So I currently have the JDL uqfp on my car right now but thinking about switching to the JDL dual resonated front pipe, would a retune be necessary when swapping out the front pipe?

[MaxTurbo]

Originally Posted by jmai

So I currently have the JDL uqfp on my car right now but thinking about switching to the JDL dual resonated front pipe, would a retune be necessary when swapping out the front pipe?

Any changes downstream the header should not require any tuning. Maybe something drastic like open dump after the header or the opposite (a big flow obstruction), but even then... your fuel should still be good.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by jmai

So I currently have the JDL uqfp on my car right now but thinking about switching to the JDL dual resonated front pipe, would a retune be necessary when swapping out the front pipe?

At the minimum I would recommend having your tuner review a log to see if a change is needed.

[Decep]

Sorry in advance for an oil debate, am i stupid for still using 0w20? Keeping in mind the climate here is mild bay area weather. I know it's for fuel economy but i figure the light weight during cold starts has to be beneficial.

[BR-ZED]

So after about 500 miles on this kit, I'm thinking I should probably add Radium dual catch cans. It seems like a lot of people do this at install time.

How easy or hard is it to do after the Edelbrock kit is installed on the car? I wasn't sure how easy it was to access the necessary hoses. Is there some documentation somewhere as to the proper connections to make when you have the Edelbrock kit on the car?

[AKITA]

Originally Posted by BR-ZED

So after about 500 miles on this kit, I'm thinking I should probably add Radium dual catch cans. It seems like a lot of people do this at install time.
How easy or hard is it to do after the Edelbrock kit is installed on the car? I wasn't sure how easy it was to access the necessary hoses. Is there some documentation somewhere as to the proper connections to make when you have the Edelbrock kit on the car?

I had both prior to SC install.. which meant I had to cut new hoses..So doing it after is better IMO. Not hard.. A 2 if that on a scale of 10. Just follow radium instructions which are available online.

Here's a quick rundown.
Passenger side PCV valve connection that is currently connected to SC goes to "can" rerouted .. then the return hose from can to PCV connection on SC, which you would initially disconnect. This will probably require a joint from the PCV valve on the block to the can, which is fine if secured. Probably will do some hose trimming as well.

Driver side can, even easier really.. currently connects to air box. Disconnect reroute to can with supplied radium hoses. Then run return hose from can to airbox to your liking with supplied hoses.

http://data.radiumauto.com/PublicDocs/19-0073D.PDF

They have new unit it looks like too that mounts to the inside or medial side of the battery. It's about the same price for both of the older design, it may or may not be better, but I do kind of like the way they did it.. might take a look

In saying all this and that it is a fairly easy job. Don't feel rushed. And if I were going to I would start with passenger side if doing one at a time. On a pretty mild tune that I'm waiting to be worked on right now on a dyno, I have about 500 NA 500 SC on the cans. So about 1000 miles total. The dipstick is fairly dry on the driver side. Mild residue (which is something but pretty minimal) on the passenger side dipstick.. with no sign of pooling at the bottom yet for either. So I think that is more important side if doing one.

I want to add in this post so I don't just make another post. It seems especially in hot environments that the oil cooler placement if put in front of the LTR can negatively affect to a significant degree the cooling for the SC so that the air can become heat soaked. Makes total sense.. I'm working on this right now with David out of DD Performance Research west of Houston and will post updates as possible. Maybe this is already well known and I overlooked it but if not.. definitely want to keep it in mind