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Old 07-28-2021, 11:58 AM   #15
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Are pressures more stable, or just higher in general due to lower temp? My understanding (I haven't logged pressure so I'm going on info from others here) is that the pressure becomes unstable at high rpm due to cavitation rather than from temperature...
That was what I was seeing before too. Now that my oil temps are far more in check it seems to have stabilized and does not seem to be fluctuating like it was before. It is holding low 50's at temp now. It is still peaking out at around 5800-6k rpm in the mid 60's, but is holding much more stable then before.

I am having issues with my logging setup right now. It isn't showing my oil pressure/temp in my device management and tach signal is registering about a 1/3 the rpm it should. Haven't had time to figure that out yet
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Old 07-28-2021, 01:02 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by DarkSunrise View Post
If it’s a massive 19+ row that’s dumping heat into your radiator (especially with the hood ducting), maybe that’s the reason?
Specific heat of oil is way less than that of water. IOW, given equal masses of each at the same temp, oil stores less thermal energy.

Consider the aftermarket oil/water systems - no, not the dinky forester thing. No problem shedding all that combined heat as long as there's adequate air flow through the rad.
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Old 07-28-2021, 01:51 PM   #17
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Specific heat of oil is way less than that of water. IOW, given equal masses of each at the same temp, oil stores less thermal energy.

Consider the aftermarket oil/water systems - no, not the dinky forester thing. No problem shedding all that combined heat as long as there's adequate air flow through the rad.
Interesting! Good to know. I guess that explains why putting an oil cooler (granted a small setrab 613) in front of my radiator didn’t affect affect water temps much.

NoHaveMSG’s comment about significantly improving the efficiency of the 613 by mounting it on the crash bar seems worth pursuing as well. I may try to raise mine up on spacers or hang it off the crash bar, but good to know it shouldn’t raise water temps much either way. I’d love to drop my peak oil temps into the 220’s and use a 0w20 or thin 30 weight oil.
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Old 07-28-2021, 02:40 PM   #18
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Interesting! Good to know. I guess that explains why putting an oil cooler (granted a small setrab 613) in front of my radiator didn’t affect affect water temps much.

NoHaveMSG’s comment about significantly improving the efficiency of the 613 by mounting it on the crash bar seems worth pursuing as well. I may try to raise mine up on spacers or hang it off the crash bar, but good to know it shouldn’t raise water temps much either way. I’d love to drop my peak oil temps into the 220’s and use a 0w20 or thin 30 weight oil.
If you can nestle it right up against the cooler stack with just a smidge of clearance, that would be ideal. I put a strip of aluminum tape across the top so a thin section can be folded and butted up to the rad behind it. Stops the cross flow which is also a bad thing. If air finds a way around, it will.
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Old 07-28-2021, 06:05 PM   #19
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I have been having an issue this season with heat management and am looking for suggestions.

Car is NA
E85
Header is ceramic coated inside and out. FP/OP is not.
Driveway Labs hood duct
AC Delete
Added Koyorad about a month ago

Last year I was seeing 220-225F max on coolant temps which I was okay with. This year went E85. Since last year I moved my oil cooler to give it cleaner flow but it is center of my radiator right in the opening. My oil temps have been good, about 210-220F, much lower then before. My water temps where hitting 240F at around 85F ambient. Went to a Koyorad, still seeing 230F and sometimes still approaching 240F water temps during longer sessions 80-85F ambient. I am thinking more hood ducting and moving my oil cooler over to behind one of the fog lights. I haven't really heard too many complaints about water temps NA so I am kind of surprised by this. Again, other suggestions welcome.
Something is wrong.

Are ***all*** factory shrouding pieces present? Age of the car?
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Old 07-28-2021, 06:30 PM   #20
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Something is wrong.

Are ***all*** factory shrouding pieces present? Age of the car?

2013

The shrouding around the radiator is in place. The top piece above the crash bar, and both of the fin pieces in front of the radiator on each side. I believe that is all of them.


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Old 07-28-2021, 06:40 PM   #21
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2013

The shrouding around the radiator is in place. The top piece above the crash bar, and both of the fin pieces in front of the radiator on each side. I believe that is all of them.


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Water pump and fans fully functional? You should be nearly sitting on thermostat permanently with an NA car at your ambients and elevation!
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Old 07-28-2021, 06:47 PM   #22
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Water pump and fans fully functional? You should be nearly sitting on thermostat permanently with an NA car at your ambients and elevation!

Fans work. I actually have a switch to cycle them on and off fully if I want, but they so come on normally. The water pumps seems to be working normally. I could try a new one as I don’t have a good way to test it.


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Old 07-28-2021, 09:12 PM   #23
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Bad thermostat?
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Old 07-29-2021, 02:03 AM   #24
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OMG, I'm going to shit myself if it's the thermostat.
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Old 07-29-2021, 07:28 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by NoHaveMSG View Post
That was what I was seeing before too. Now that my oil temps are far more in check it seems to have stabilized and does not seem to be fluctuating like it was before. It is holding low 50's at temp now. It is still peaking out at around 5800-6k rpm in the mid 60's, but is holding much more stable then before.

I am having issues with my logging setup right now. It isn't showing my oil pressure/temp in my device management and tach signal is registering about a 1/3 the rpm it should. Haven't had time to figure that out yet
Totally impractical of course, but it'd be *great* to see temps and oil pressure plots vs. rpm, without and with oil cooler, with 20- and 30-weight
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Old 07-29-2021, 10:40 AM   #26
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Totally impractical of course, but it'd be *great* to see temps and oil pressure plots vs. rpm, without and with oil cooler, with 20- and 30-weight

That was the plan originally. Just having issues getting it to log.
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Old 07-29-2021, 12:37 PM   #27
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OMG, I'm going to shit myself if it's the thermostat.
LOL right? Ordering a WP and thermostat now.
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Old 07-29-2021, 03:35 PM   #28
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LOL right? Ordering a WP and thermostat now.
I like to boil mine on the stove to test both old and new. Can't believe that flew right past us. Duh!
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