04-17-2019, 10:13 AM | #29 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2018
Drives: 2016 Scion FRS
Location: Knoxville, TN
Posts: 457
Thanks: 52
Thanked 275 Times in 181 Posts
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
|
Quote:
End links look pretty simple compared to other cars that I've messed with. Internally threaded ball joint linkage - threaded rod - internally threaded ball joint linkage? Or is there more to it? |
|
04-17-2019, 12:01 PM | #30 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Drives: Many
Location: Independence, Ore.
Posts: 704
Thanks: 227
Thanked 391 Times in 235 Posts
Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
|
I don't think the diff is necessary at all, I just happened to have some dollars burning a hole in my pocket, and I have an OSG in my s13 which I love (especially after swapping from torsen > OSG).
I have taken runs in other folks' cars and I like the torsen just fine. |
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to e1_griego For This Useful Post: | justint5387 (05-03-2019), strat61caster (04-18-2019) |
04-17-2019, 12:32 PM | #31 | ||
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2017
Drives: '15 STX
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 237
Thanks: 10
Thanked 157 Times in 103 Posts
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
|
That wing makes the car sooo fast. Too much downforce at 60mph.
Seriously though that Ricky guy seems like a rules twat. Also mad that he can't win in an S2000 Quote:
I don't have any issue with the Torsen, it works fine and will certainly get you to a win. Some prefer the looser entry and exit of the car, and that suits a certain driving style too. With an OSG I immediately noticed how stable the car was on entry and had to change how I approached corners. On exit, the lockup is faster and feels like the car thrusts forward rather than initiating a slide first. It also feels like the Torsen has to be "spooled" mid corner with maintenance throttle. Quote:
|
||
04-17-2019, 12:44 PM | #32 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2016
Drives: 2016 Scion FRS / Chevy Colorado
Location: Ohio
Posts: 639
Thanks: 51
Thanked 536 Times in 298 Posts
Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
|
Quote:
Endlinks are easy. With MCS though you create inner clearance issues with the fender well where OTS endlinks are too big and like rub the inner fender.
__________________
Kyle H. - #89 STX
|
|
04-18-2019, 05:43 PM | #33 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Drives: 2013 Raven FR-S
Location: Nashville
Posts: 775
Thanks: 968
Thanked 213 Times in 136 Posts
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
|
Looks like a lot of you guys are using 4-2-1 EL headers. I'm running a JDL UEL right now but have seriously thought about switching. Would it be worth the extra cost and effort?
|
04-18-2019, 08:26 PM | #34 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2016
Drives: #337 2017 Toyota 86
Location: San Diego
Posts: 225
Thanks: 32
Thanked 241 Times in 114 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
|
I'd just keep it. The amount of time and money spent on a new header would be better spent at events driving.
__________________
Sean Thomson | Instagram: @the_drivers_perspective / YouTube: The Driver's Perspective
Back To Basics Toyota 86: STX & 86 Cup Street Build |
04-18-2019, 08:49 PM | #35 |
-
Join Date: Nov 2012
Drives: '13 FRS - STX
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 10,365
Thanks: 13,733
Thanked 9,479 Times in 4,998 Posts
Mentioned: 94 Post(s)
Tagged: 3 Thread(s)
|
Again going off memory here but I think it's a 22mm solid Perrin bar.
Big, but not crazy, there are bigger and I think the 22mm white line is stiffer based on the charts and word of mouth, maybe too stiff, 22mm Megan bar might be pretty close to the right thing as well with a 5-6k spring up front and stiffer rear spring. I've got a 20mm white line, seems to work good on warm concrete at full stiff but I got front end chatter at the last cool damp event and with hindsight would have tried softening it. I've got a 6k spring up front and was running the same bar with a 325# spring, a little more bar than what I've got would probably help but right now I don't think anything needs to run some 25+ mm monstrosity. Unless you've got less spring than that. |
04-19-2019, 10:44 AM | #36 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Drives: 2017 BRZ w/PP
Location: Pa
Posts: 1,027
Thanks: 51
Thanked 302 Times in 225 Posts
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
|
im not competitive but posting anyway:
2017 brz PP 17x9 6UL with 255/40/17 conti ECS Ace350 K&N filter Perrin inlet tube CSG FLA with 1" drop winmax w2 5lb shorai battery alignment is -2.6 front with 1/8" toe out -2.1 back with 1/8" toe in I daily it so maybe if i gitgud ill put more into it Last edited by Breadman; 04-26-2019 at 05:03 PM. |
04-19-2019, 01:40 PM | #37 | ||
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2016
Drives: 2016 Scion FRS / Chevy Colorado
Location: Ohio
Posts: 639
Thanks: 51
Thanked 536 Times in 298 Posts
Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
|
Quote:
Came from a Tomei UEL. No back to back dyno (did dyno tuning at ME and remotely tuned for the new headed based off the old tune). The 4-2-1 EL still has a very good bump mid-RPM similar to UEL. IMO, it actually pulls harder at the 4k range. At top end, it doesn't choke out of air. It can still flow really well and runs hard to redline. Looking at virtual dyno, it still drops at ~6850 or so, but levels out quickly and pulls hard to redline. My dyno on the UEL, drop off starts at 6500 and goes off a cliff basically. So on the EL we were able to get a bump in torque at virtually HP max and mimic a UEL curve. The EL torque shelf is virtually flat, unlike the UEL where torque is low until the 4500 mark where it bumps and then drops off slightly. I have same torque figures (relatively) from 3800 to 6800. With all the being said, comes Lincoln's post Quote:
With that being said, not like the header I was previously on preventing me from being capable of winning...
__________________
Kyle H. - #89 STX
|
||
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to M0nk3y For This Useful Post: | smg1138 (04-19-2019), strat61caster (04-19-2019) |
04-19-2019, 10:26 PM | #38 |
-
Join Date: Nov 2012
Drives: '13 FRS - STX
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 10,365
Thanks: 13,733
Thanked 9,479 Times in 4,998 Posts
Mentioned: 94 Post(s)
Tagged: 3 Thread(s)
|
+1 if you don't already have ecutek going to the long tube header and custom tune is a $2k investment or more, I know I'd get a helluva lot of seat time and two sets of tires for that money, way more valuable for me than a few ponies. A few torques isn't going to make up for my dumb mistakes that are currently keeping me more than a second out from the fast guys.
JDL or Ace, maybe an old nameless if you can find it, the tomei I have is a 4-2-1 but it's a short tube header and doesn't have the same gains down low according to the box that the long tube headers have. |
The Following User Says Thank You to strat61caster For This Useful Post: | smg1138 (04-21-2019) |
04-20-2019, 12:15 AM | #39 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2016
Drives: 2017 86 6-Speed
Location: Seattle
Posts: 138
Thanks: 35
Thanked 74 Times in 36 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
|
Quote:
Plus if you're looking to upgrade eventually but aren't in any kind of hurry, just keep an eye on the local used market for a while. Eventually you may see an offer you can't refuse. I picked up PTuning EL for 550 that way.
__________________
2017 86 set up for CS STX autocross
|
|
04-20-2019, 05:03 PM | #40 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Drives: 2015 CWP BRZ
Location: Crowley, TX
Posts: 276
Thanks: 25
Thanked 58 Times in 45 Posts
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
|
Okay I’ll play along and share.
2015 BRZ Suspension: RCE T2’s with 400f/450r with front RCE camber plates and Mooresport rear upper mounts. Whiteline 20mm front sway bar and endlinks with bar set to stiff. Mann Engineering rear bar with Racer X endlinks. Verus rear lower control arms with the STX legal bushings. Current alignment is -4.1 front with 1/16 toe out and -2.7 rear with 1/16 toe in. Ride height is 25” measured from top center of front fender to floor. Rear is 25.25” Power mods so far: Grimspeed intake, Tomei header and over pipe and Berk muffler delete. (Yes it drones on the highway lol) and a Kartboy crank pulley. Also Openflash tune. Misc. mods: Braille battery, AP Racing sprint front brake kit with Ferodo DS2500 pads front and rear. Wheels/tires: Enkei RPF1 17x9 +45 (fronts have 10mm spacers to clear AP Racing brakes) 245/40 Rival S 1.5 currently. Used to run 255/40 RE71’s. Last edited by bslate3; 04-20-2019 at 06:44 PM. |
04-20-2019, 10:58 PM | #41 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Drives: 2014 FR-S MT
Location: metro-Atlanta area
Posts: 119
Thanks: 131
Thanked 77 Times in 47 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
|
Thank you to everyone for sharing your setups -- it's interesting to see the variation.
Here's mine; I don't go to National events and probably won't ever be able to. But my car, driven by my friend who's the best driver I've ever known, won our region's SCCA championship last year in it. He raw-timed the current/multiple Dixie Tour STU winner, and was several seconds ahead of the current/multiple Dixie Tour STX winner, both of whom are great guys and better drivers than me. Engine K&N filter stock airbox Tomei EL header and over pipe (OP makes a noticeable difference in how freely the engine revs. Also seems to bog less at low rpm in 2nd. Will have to go back to the dyno to see what difference it made.) Stock front pipe (Motiv HFC FP might go back on if I can get a quieter exhaust) Ark Design dual canister exhaust. Wayneroms v146.3 default version, rich +2% file Suspension/chassis MCS 1WNR, 11/18 clicks F, 10/18 clicks R Eibach springs 6" 500 lb/in F, 7" 450 lb/in R, no helper springs Ground Control camber plates, rear top mounts, F strut brace Cusco R shock tower brace Whiteline RLCA with inner bushings set to raise roll center Whiteline subframe bushing inserts Perrin 22 mm front swaybar on stiff, Racer X endlinks Stock rear swaybar Perrin steering rack lock-downs (not legal for National events I don't think, but holds alignments better since I installed them. The front toe used to change after every event before getting these.) Tirerack FF10 17x9 45 et RE-71R 245/40 Ferodo DS2500 pads, Ate brake fluid Racer X master cylinder brace Alignment 3.5 - 3.6 camber F (I get most of my camber via the slotted strut, probably less than a degree from the plates) OEM caster 5.7 - 5.8 0 toe or as close to it the tech can hit 2.8 - 2.9 camber R 0.1 deg toe-in per side or as close to middle of the factory range the tech can hit Ride height Two finger gap in R, maybe a little more than that in F As close to 0 rake as I could attain in my garage with its lumpy floor Front spring perch height set equal L to R (basically as low as they could go while keeping the springs captive at full droop) RR spring perch 2 mm lower than LR Corner balance was acceptable to me in this configuration Interior/Misc SRP accelerator pedal Schroth Rallye 3 harness OEM length ARP studs, hardened steel lugs (my favorite mods after snapping 8 OEM studs with OEM lugs frozen on them) Bosch size 51 AGM battery, JDM smaller tray and tie-down Last edited by H1C; 04-20-2019 at 11:27 PM. |
The Following User Says Thank You to H1C For This Useful Post: | smg1138 (04-28-2019) |
|
|
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
Vortech Owner Thread & Setup Questions | reyruiz191 | Forced Induction | 340 | 05-17-2022 12:44 PM |
2019 CDC & SCCA Autocross Thread | JakeRogue | Mid-Atlantic | 15 | 05-17-2019 09:58 AM |
Would you prefer 2019 Toyota TRD or 2019 Subaru BRZ limited | Busybee | Scion FR-S / Toyota 86 GT86 General Forum | 64 | 02-24-2019 12:05 PM |
STX Set-Up Sharing & Results Thread | race2win | Tracking / Autocross / HPDE / Drifting | 76 | 02-16-2017 11:30 AM |
Official Roll Cage/Bar Thread **Show off your setup!** | slava | Suspension | Chassis | Brakes -- Sponsored by 949 Racing | 4 | 01-02-2015 10:05 PM |