10-14-2022, 06:49 PM | #23941 |
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man, one of my aftermarket TPMS just died on me. Totally not responding on that tire. I hear that TPMS just sometimes go bad, but my OEM non programmable sensors that I got with the car are still fully functioning.
I got Maxi Autel universal programmable TPMS (made in china) I've had them less than 2 years and one sensor just up and died. I'm trying to work with Autel support and also tire rack (where I got the sensors from) to get a replacement, well see, hopefully I do. Not sure if this is a one off sensor fail or an indication of the quality of these sensors. Anyone run any tires using these sensors for any of your cars. |
10-14-2022, 07:55 PM | #23942 |
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
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Finally got around to changing my black brake fluid. I just about used a quart getting it all pretty again.
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10-15-2022, 09:00 AM | #23943 |
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Well replacing the short block was in fact the right call.
#2 rod bearing was toast, haven’t split the block yet but suspect at least one main bearing is toast because it still won’t turn smooth with all the pistons out. Heads look decent enough to re-use. I found no metal in them, oil filter did its job. |
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10-16-2022, 05:27 PM | #23944 |
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Picked up something to help with the maintenance.
It's an older Atlas MR-06. I like the fact that it has dual locking mechanism and no cables. All works well and it was a good deal. |
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10-16-2022, 06:01 PM | #23945 |
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You're about to make some friends who need lift access
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10-16-2022, 07:05 PM | #23946 |
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I was of the 6 month and 5,000-mile persuasion but called my oil analysts for an opinion. They said modern oils are good for up to 3 years. I wont go to that extreme though. I'll go to 1-year intervals since I don't put much more than 5,000 on in a year anyway.
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10-16-2022, 07:13 PM | #23947 |
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10-16-2022, 09:13 PM | #23948 |
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3 years! Wow. I'm only putting 3k a year, and even then I think it's pushing it. LOL
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10-17-2022, 03:26 AM | #23949 |
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Tranny and diff fluid change + rusty bolts
Shifting has been very difficult and my gear linkages have been super rough since my last track day, so I changed the diff and transmission fluid. 58k kms and it's never been changed. My God, did it ever need it. Fluid changes went off without a hitch, no problem. But when I removed the bolts that hold on the scrape plate and plastic cover that protect the transmission case, every bolt was extremely rusty. When I finished the fluid change, I still put them back in, but they are all very brittle and one (non-essential one) even broke in my hands. I feel like I should replace all of them soon, as they are all in extremely poor condition, but I don't know where to order them from, the part numbers, how not to get ripped off, etc. If anyone knows, please help me out or send me to the right place. Thank you!
It's my DD and I live in Southern Ontario, so there's lots of salt and the entire underbody is so rusty, I can't even believe it. I've never seen anything like it. Wish I had brought my jack to the test drive before I bought the thing. Next on the list is debadging. Unless the OEM is paying me to advertise, I don't do that ish for free |
10-18-2022, 01:39 PM | #23950 | |
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Quote:
I go to parts.subaru.com Just put in a 2013 subaru BRZ. The bolts you want are part of the body so you will want to select the "body" category. Keep scrolling until you see "Under cover & Exhaust Cover". Click on the diagram. On the top right of the photo you'll see the cover you are talking about. You'll see a lone drawing of a bolt called M000344. This means you can safely assume all the other bolts are the same, and there are 7 of them. If you click the link for that part, you'll see it's a m6 bolt that is 16mm long. Part number is 901000344 In terms of getting ripped off, these bolts are inexpensive, so this is something I'd go to the local dealer for. Maybe call ahead of time to see if they have them in stock. Most likely they'll need to special order. If this price is higher than what MSRP is I always say "I was hoping we could get a little closer to the MSRP of (actual MSRP)" and they will bring it down. For more expensive OEM parts, plug the part number into google and order from a wholesaler. I like subarupartsdeal.com. |
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10-18-2022, 03:57 PM | #23951 |
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Toyota dealer where I bought my car has decent prices, order online select local pick up. Might save like 2-3% cross shopping for most parts in my experience unless there’s a rare piece sitting on a shelf that they want gone.
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10-19-2022, 07:40 AM | #23952 | |
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Quote:
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10-19-2022, 12:28 PM | #23953 |
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This. It would never occur to me to go to the dealer first for a bolt, unless I couldn't find it anywhere else first.
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Visit my Owner's Journal where I wax philosophic on all things FR-S Post your 86 or see others in front of a(n) (in)famous landmark. What fits in your 86? Show us the "Junk In Your Trunk". Last edited by Dadhawk; 10-19-2022 at 03:25 PM. |
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10-19-2022, 04:27 PM | #23954 |
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I am just the opposite, always go with the OEM option first. Know it cost more but can not stand an off fastener.
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