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10-21-2020, 05:33 PM | #15 |
義理チョコ
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Get a couple cans, some fuel hose the same size as the one feeding the rail, one of those barbed tube things to join the hoses, blah blah... Jumper at the fuel pump relay. Profit.
Might take a while. ... clogged filter and all.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Ultramaroon For This Useful Post: | Spuds (10-21-2020) |
10-21-2020, 05:34 PM | #16 | |
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10-23-2020, 06:10 PM | #17 | |
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The Following User Says Thank You to Spuds For This Useful Post: | Irace86.2.0 (10-23-2020) |
10-23-2020, 06:15 PM | #18 |
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New dilemma. Is the risk of the pump actually being messed up worth the ~$300 difference for just replacing the whole unit... and it would save me time...
(42072 vs 42021 or 42022) https://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_20...10-421-03.html |
10-23-2020, 07:04 PM | #19 | |
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The Following User Says Thank You to Ultramaroon For This Useful Post: | Spuds (10-23-2020) |
10-23-2020, 08:35 PM | #20 | |
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The filter looks to be sealed in a plastic case, you buy the case with the filtration element inside. I'm saying this because I don't think I can check the filter to see how dirty it is. Plus it would mean opening and resealing the tank twice because I have to wait for parts. |
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The Following User Says Thank You to Spuds For This Useful Post: | Ultramaroon (10-23-2020) |
10-23-2020, 09:00 PM | #21 |
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I searched the usual places like Alldata and a few technician sites but only found one reference to anything like your problem and the cause was a dying battery.
It makes sense in a way. Most alternators reach max output somewhere above 2K rpm so if your main battery is shot, it might take that many rpm to feed enough current demands to make the engine run normally. An electrical load test might help and imagine a DIY oriented auto parts store has a free tester. If you do go with a fuel system repair, definitely do it outdoors and not in the garage. Good luck. |
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Atmo For This Useful Post: | Spuds (10-23-2020), Ultramaroon (10-23-2020) |
10-23-2020, 09:36 PM | #22 |
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10-24-2020, 11:40 AM | #23 |
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Most motorcycles with an in-tank fuel pump publish Gallons-Per-Minute rate in the repair manual.
Disconnect the fuel line and route it to a holding can. Apply a known voltage to the fuel pump and it should move X amount of fuel in Y minutes. Then you know if it's the pump and filter or something else. Also gets fuel out of the tank in the mean time and don't have to break into the tank. There should be specs for this available somewhere. ========================= Looks like the 86 manual only wants you to use an in-line pressure gauge and Techstream. Bleah.
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The Following User Says Thank You to bcj For This Useful Post: | Spuds (10-31-2020) |
10-31-2020, 05:28 PM | #24 | |
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New battery installed, took like 10 seconds to start the car which I found a little odd. It cranked fine. High idle on startup was fine, but when it warmed up a bit and lowered the idle the same issue started happening. I'm thinking taking a while to start might further indicate fuel flow problems? Alternatively, the alternator could have an issue resulting in a similar situation to a bad battery causing low fuel pressure... |
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10-31-2020, 06:33 PM | #25 |
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Disconnect and plug the vacuum to the pressure regulator. See if it changes how it idles. If Tcoat's theory holds, high manifold vacuum at idle increases return flow above the pump's ability to maintain pressure. It makes sense. Best thing would be to actually measure rail pressure.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Ultramaroon For This Useful Post: | Tcoat (11-03-2020) |
11-06-2020, 11:11 PM | #26 | |
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Are you saying that the fuel pressure regulator is controlled by some air vaccum line to the manifold? Not familiar with how fueling systems work so sorry if I misunderstood. Assuming that is true, if I disconnect the regulator from the line, I need to plug the end of the line to maintain correct manifold pressure, and leave the regulator open to the atmosphere to see what that does to idle. What would you expect it to do if Tcoat is correct, versus some other problem? Also, is it safe to start and run the engine this way? I would think there is a reason they need the fuel pressure regulator in the first place? |
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11-07-2020, 03:46 AM | #27 | |
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I'm pretty sure it also blows holes in Tcoat's theory. The only way to tell for sure is to test fuel pressure real time. To answer your last question, disabling the pressure regulator would raise rail pressure but not to some crazy unbounded level. It would be the same as when manifold vacuum is lowest - at initial startup and what would be delivered near to full throttle. It would run rich at the low end. Not a showstopper, and would confirm the issue.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Ultramaroon For This Useful Post: | Spuds (11-07-2020) |
11-07-2020, 07:56 AM | #28 | |
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Possible culprits: 1. Fuel filter is clogged 2. Fuel pump is dieing 3. Some fuel pressure regulation device is malfunctioning. 4. Coils/plugs 5. Alternator (possibly also the reason the battery was shot?) I can probably check the the Alternator voltage output pretty easily, (obd readout or multimeter) to make sure it's at 14V+ right? That just leaves 1-4. I think it's going to be more cost/time effective to just replace the filter and pump together than try to rig something together to figure out how to measure fuel pressure in a running engine and fi more diagnosis. If that costs me $300 and an afternoon to learn that wasn't it, well I learn better the hard way anyway lol. Plus, the filter at least is overdue for replacement anyway. If that doesn't solve the problem, the plugs are due for replacement, and then coil packs. If I am still in the dark after that, well, it might be time to pay somebody to fix it... Edit, first, I'm going to inspect the fuel lines under the car. I wonder if they may have been damaged when I got the cat inspected... |
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