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Scion FR-S / Toyota 86 GT86 General Forum The place to start for the Scion FR-S / Toyota 86 | GT86 |
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05-13-2020, 02:47 PM | #43 |
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I understand that opinion. I used to hold it myself.
I don't hold that opinion anymore obviously. It all depends on the damage and how it was repaired. I would not buy a car where the extent of the damage isn't being disclosed/etc. Cars with minor damage are so easy to repair CORRECTLY that it's kind of silly to just ignore them out of hand IMO.
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05-13-2020, 02:58 PM | #44 | |
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For the record I have no objection to a well done rebuild either but in the order of value it really is the worst option for many people.
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05-13-2020, 03:05 PM | #45 | |
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But what makes it a bad value? If you can get the car for 30-40% less than a clean title example, with the understanding that it'll always be 30-40% less valuable, then you can get a better car for less. I don't mean one that has had two cars welded into one, like so many Miami FL rebuilds are known for, but one that just needs a few front end parts etc? The worst part of it's value is insurance. It costs the same but pays out less. That part does suck - no question. That's why I self insure comp/collision on mine...... But to put it this way, would you buy a lightly hit but fixed (with documented repairs/parts/etc) car with 60k miles or clean title example with 120k for the same price? Assume both are maintained, etc. But whatever I have both a clean title AND a rebuilt title car for sale for the OP!!! hahaha
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Track cars: 2013 Scion FRS, 1998 Acura Integra Type-R, 1993 Honda Civic Hatchback DD: 2005 Acura TSX Tow: 2022 F-450 Toys: 2001 Chevrolet Corvette Z06, 1993 Toyota MR2 Turbo, 1994 Toyota MR2 Turbo, 1991 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Parts: 2015 Subaru BRZ Limited, 2005 Acura TSX Projects: 2013 Subaru BRZ Limited track car build FS: 2004 GMC Sierra 2500 LT CCSB 8.1/Allison with 99k miles |
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05-13-2020, 03:42 PM | #46 | |
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05-13-2020, 04:21 PM | #47 |
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Buy one with the fewest mods on it in the newest model year you can find. Buy the manual version, and wait to see if you get bored.
If you aren't even sure if you want standard or auto, you definitely won't mind the features the newer car brings. As someone who was bit in the ass, do not buy a salvage 2013. If it's affected by the recall and you decide to take it in, you will most likely get burned somehow. My car is a flood car and I bought it in 2015 for $11,500. I love it, but I also prefer the "less is more". Seat heaters, push button start, knee pads, steering wheel controls? That's just stuff that gets in the way of me taking the interior apart and putting it back in. I use the mirrors for driving backwards and can reach to adjust volume if I want. As I said initially; buy the newest model year in your flavor of choice within your budget, and buy a manual. |
05-13-2020, 05:06 PM | #48 | |
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I would buy the clean title car wit the assumption that they are the same quality. Mileage is the last consideration in my list. There are some great 100K cars and some beat to shit 10K ones.
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05-13-2020, 08:31 PM | #49 | |
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Plus you can live for awhile with a bit of rust, but you can’t drive the car with a blown engine or tranny. Clearly it’s different for different people, neither are wrong, one size does not fit all. |
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05-13-2020, 09:28 PM | #50 | |
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Track cars: 2013 Scion FRS, 1998 Acura Integra Type-R, 1993 Honda Civic Hatchback DD: 2005 Acura TSX Tow: 2022 F-450 Toys: 2001 Chevrolet Corvette Z06, 1993 Toyota MR2 Turbo, 1994 Toyota MR2 Turbo, 1991 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Parts: 2015 Subaru BRZ Limited, 2005 Acura TSX Projects: 2013 Subaru BRZ Limited track car build FS: 2004 GMC Sierra 2500 LT CCSB 8.1/Allison with 99k miles |
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05-13-2020, 10:34 PM | #51 | |
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It depends on what you personally value. Do you value words on a title? Or do you value performance per $? Depending on that it either makes a well rebuilt vehicle more valuable TO YOU or it makes it worthless. In the true "rebuilt is shit" camp there is no such thing as a good rebuilt car For my case, my red FRS hail damaged failed 2013 recall car is a *great value*. I get every bit of performance and enjoyment out of it for less than 6 grand. It's a 27K chassis. With a 40k engine. I couldn't touch a clean title version of that for less than 6k. That makes it an INSANE value for me. All in, with ACE shit, brakes, 2 way dampers, 3 sets of wheels, r comps, blah blah blah I'm maybe 11k into the thing at the moment. And when I smash it into a wall at the track.. WGAF... I realize this is kind of a pointless conversation since I buy them wrecked and fix them myself and all........ my only point is that a rebuilt title doesn't represent bad value to ALL owners.. just those that need to pay full insurance costs for a car that the ins co pays out less for. But really, that's built into the purchase price so it shouldn't be a surprise. Still, over several years, that $ in ins premiums can eat into that. I get it - just expect it. FWIW though I insured my 2015 BRZ at full value after insurance inspected it and previous damage. Granted I never made a claim but they recorded the cars condition and saw no reason to screw me. I did cancel comp/collision since the BRZ was about 2x as much to insure as my 650hp Camaro lol
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Track cars: 2013 Scion FRS, 1998 Acura Integra Type-R, 1993 Honda Civic Hatchback DD: 2005 Acura TSX Tow: 2022 F-450 Toys: 2001 Chevrolet Corvette Z06, 1993 Toyota MR2 Turbo, 1994 Toyota MR2 Turbo, 1991 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Parts: 2015 Subaru BRZ Limited, 2005 Acura TSX Projects: 2013 Subaru BRZ Limited track car build FS: 2004 GMC Sierra 2500 LT CCSB 8.1/Allison with 99k miles |
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05-14-2020, 11:03 AM | #52 | |
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especially if im dropping thousands and thousands of dollars for it. |
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05-14-2020, 12:32 PM | #53 | |
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For the twins, how many perfect condition stock wheels, tires and exhaust components are for sale at cheap prices because no one wants them because they all upgrade those parts. I see no reason in picking a car that has the most perfect stock parts that you plan on trashing anyway. In fact it would be great if Subaru would offer a cheaper BRZ without wheels, brakes, tires, stock intake filters, and exhaust. Then I could put my money right into the upgraded parts. My shed has a ton of my stock parts from an 04 WRX and 16 BRZ. |
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05-14-2020, 12:44 PM | #54 | |
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05-14-2020, 08:34 PM | #55 | |
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05-15-2020, 07:02 AM | #56 | ||
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Not necessarily a pos, but you can find inexpensive vehicles in pretty good condition. I mean there seem to be tons of 2013 frs out there with less than 50k miles. I bought at the high end of the spectrum, and now realize it was a dumb idea because most of my interior is out and I still want to go lighter. Live and learn. Quote:
A 2013 will be worth less than a 2016 no matter what the condition of either car. There are plenty of low mileage 2013 in decent shape. As long as you are willing to hunt around and travel a bit you should be able to find one. I would rather pay $12k for a 2013 frs in decent to good condition than $20,000 plus for any of these cars with all the bells and whistles. I bought the one with the most bells and whistles at the time I was buying. It sucks to realize that most of them are lying in my apartment because the car is much more fun without an interior. Push button start is totally annoying in many ways. Key less is nice until the battery dies and leaves you stranded who knows where.Having a blue interior instead of the red is wonderful, except at this point I want to remove almost everything with that blue, so what's the point? Buying a car for the intentions you are going to use it for is a much better idea. Hell, I'd take a look at the rebuilds @Dave-ROR does because I am sure they are repaired correctly before buying a newer car if I was going to do it again. Now if you are like @Tcoat then absolutely buy the newest best car you can afford. From what he says the newer cars are better in every way. Funny in how that is exactly what I said in fewer words. |
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