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11-12-2012, 12:22 PM | #15 |
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Word. I agree that not being underneath isn't nearly as bad, but I just worry for those who read with less understanding of what could happen.
Thanks for adding it to the list!
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11-12-2012, 02:37 PM | #16 | |
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Quote:
:happy0180:
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1984 AE86 BT 20V 5MT 2007-2012
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03-01-2013, 01:12 PM | #17 |
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if you're concerned with scraping the paint at the factory jacking point, can't you just wrap a small piece of towel there?
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12-09-2013, 11:07 AM | #18 |
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did you use the same wheels size 17" OEM Factory 17x7 5x100 +48mm ?
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12-09-2013, 11:53 AM | #19 |
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Just noticed in the picture you have 205/55/R16 wheels for winter, do you have PTMS light go on when you drive ?
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12-09-2013, 12:12 PM | #20 |
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I don’t know about the States, but our BRZs out here don't come with TPMS.
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12-09-2013, 12:21 PM | #21 |
i'm sorry, what?
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can you tell me why you felt it was a good idea to grease the wheel mating surface when it's supposed to be free of any lubrication so as to create friction necessary to hold the wheel in place.
remember it's not the lugs/bolts holding the wheels on, it's the friction force between the hub, brake disk, and wheel, via the nuts. put your palms togethe and try to rotate them in opposite directions while applying pressure with both arms now do it again with your hands covered in vasaline... this is basic fastener theory. You are now relying on the strength of your studs than otherwise, this isn't right. as for not getting on teh wheel studs... the threads on the studs is actually what you want to actually apply grease to so that the threads and nut dont rust in together. :/ jacking the car up by the pinch welds... you're supposed to use them with the proper slit-tool obviously jacking them up with a flat hockey puck is going to fuck it up... take a look at the OEM jack provided to see how it's supposed to be.
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Last edited by 7thgear; 12-09-2013 at 02:49 PM. |
The Following User Says Thank You to 7thgear For This Useful Post: | amram (12-19-2013) |
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