The Drifting Thread

[Boomerang]

Originally Posted by Eleanor

Yes, Efr 6758 - around 450whp, although in the video I'm driving on low boost, around 330whp.

Jealous...


What wheels are you running(offset and spacers?)

[Boomerang]

Originally Posted by Eleanor

I can tell you that I drive with 255/35/18 tires and using Megan Racing rack ends inner tie rods which increases my angle from 17 degrees to 22-23 degrees, did you try them?

I'm thinking about purchasing drift knuckles Unicorn Angle Kit to add some more angle -I haven't got them yet as I'm using my car as a DD and I'm afraid that that having this set will convert the car to a track car =/

You can check out some of my drift the the following links

You must have front spacers too?




I'm thinking about 15mm spacers coz my fronts rub on full lock with the tie rods.


Please advise.

[Eleanor]

Front run enkei rpf1 18*9.5 +38, without spacers although I do rub my inner fenders.

I've purchased Max's super angle knuckles and outer tie roads and hopefully I will install them next week, after that i will decrease my tiers from 35/255 to 40/235 and will check the thinnest thickness of spacers I need to run in order not rubbing the inner fenders.

In the meantime, I've deleted my rear seat and DIY a delete kit which can handle with storing 8 tiers



At the beginning I created a kit with GT86's logo but I l rather going with the clean and sleeper look.

[Pschultz91]

Hey Peeps! I am running modded knuckles by drift knuckles, rack spacer, extended inner tie rods, stock outer tie rods, 2" extended front lower control arms. My wheels ar 17x8 +35mm. I am about to order a 5mm spacer to get rid of the rubbing on my brake line mount on the trailing wheel.

[Kouki86]

Has anybody completely removed ABS? Pulling the fuse works, but the brake proportioning is done in the ABS module and will put something like 90% pressure to the front brakes.

I'd like to just remove the entire system, and use a proportioning valve to correct the brake bias.

I've heard that when the module is unplugged, the car will go into limp mode. Has anyone found a way around that?

Also, the engine bay is a mess, and I'd like to clean it up wherever possible.

[Eleanor]

Hi guys,

Just wanted to give a worm recommendation on max's part shop knuckles and outer tie roads - this kit is absolutely amazing for DD and drifting on track.

At the beginning I've rubbed the hall of everything so I change my front setup from 255/35/18, 9.5'' +38 to 235/40/18, 8'' +35 and added 20mm spacer, that solved almost all the rubbing issue (P.S I've Cusco front lower control arm).

I'm try to post some photos with no success, if someone can assist I'll be glad to post the new angle steering (47 degrees).

[cocoy_labuyo]

Hello, I need advise. I currently have the driftknuckles modded knuckles and their inner tie rods. I have slight rubbing and would like to get an adjustable RacerX FLCA instead of going thicker spacers. I have 25mm on now. Will I have issues installing these with the setup I currently have? TIA

[Pschultz91]

Originally Posted by cocoy_labuyo

Hello, I need advise. I currently have the driftknuckles modded knuckles and their inner tie rods. I have slight rubbing and would like to get an adjustable RacerX FLCA instead of going thicker spacers. I have 25mm on now. Will I have issues installing these with the setup I currently have? TIA

Hey! I was kinda in the same boat with you I had the drift knuckles kit. But I had to run a 50 mm spacer. Now I have the knuckle with extended lower control arms by 2 inches, a rack spacer and ev455 tie rods and it’s perfect for me! So I don’t think you would have any issues. Excessive motoring also makes an extended front lower control arm for our cars as well!

[cocoy_labuyo]

Originally Posted by Pschultz91

Hey! I was kinda in the same boat with you I had the drift knuckles kit. But I had to run a 50 mm spacer. Now I have the knuckle with extended lower control arms by 2 inches, a rack spacer and ev455 tie rods and it’s perfect for me! So I don’t think you would have any issues. Excessive motoring also makes an extended front lower control arm for our cars as well!

Are you able to run that setup without removing the swaybars?

[Pschultz91]

Originally Posted by cocoy_labuyo

Are you able to run that setup without removing the swaybars?

I’m sure you could if you attach the sway bar end link to the control arm.

[DiscoQuinn]

Originally Posted by Kouki86

Has anybody completely removed ABS? Pulling the fuse works, but the brake proportioning is done in the ABS module and will put something like 90% pressure to the front brakes.

I'd like to just remove the entire system, and use a proportioning valve to correct the brake bias.

I've heard that when the module is unplugged, the car will go into limp mode. Has anyone found a way around that?

Also, the engine bay is a mess, and I'd like to clean it up wherever possible.

I'd like to find more information about this too. I'm curious as I'd like to disable the ABC/TC permanently as well and have yet to find a good thread about it on here, though I'm still looking.

[mxmystery7]

Originally Posted by DiscoQuinn

I'd like to find more information about this too. I'm curious as I'd like to disable the ABC/TC permanently as well and have yet to find a good thread about it on here, though I'm still looking.

I found a solution for this on my build (2013 FRS) and its been working well for a year or so.

Current setup:
- Chase bays brake booster eliminator
- Chase bays bias valve
- ABS valve block removed
- ABS/VSC module retained
- Wheel speed sensors retained
- ABS fuse pulled for the pump (green 40a)

So the trick here is to leave the electronic module intact but separate it from the aluminum valve block that the lines attach to. You can just unbolt them and pull apart. I fabricated a small plexiglass/pvc backing for the exposed back of the module. The wheel speed sensors are wired directly into this module, and the ECU pulls the values from it instead of the sensors directly.

From my research and experience its the wheel speed values that causes limp mode here:
- No module, no sensors == limp mode
- Module, no sensors == limp mode
- Module, sensors == rev city

My build is caged, stripped and track only so CELs don't bother me but this will obviously cause a couple codes + ABS light to trip. One tidbit that may benefit someone, when testing my wheel sensors by hand I couldn't spin the wheel fast enough to detect a reading from a multimeter, however I was able to view wheel speed values just fine on a laptop/TechStream when driving down the road.

[FremontSubaru]

Regarding PBM angle kit, does everyone cut their tie rods?

[raspec]

Originally Posted by FremontSubaru

Regarding PBM angle kit, does everyone cut their tie rods?

i dont think thats a common path