06-06-2016, 03:24 PM | #3963 | |
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@Zion With all the extremes they've seen to get to this point over 2 years, from a simple safety standpoint you might want to consider a new set of rings. If you're nowhere near the wear limit on the rotors it might be a good indicator that you could safely go to a more aggressive pad compound as well. |
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06-06-2016, 03:24 PM | #3964 | ||
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I wouldn't recommend leaving the spare + junk in the trunk. That won't help and could make things worse. Back in the day Gary Sheehan in USTCC with his WRX put all of their series required ballast in the trunk initially with the thinking of making the car less front heavy biased. The result was excessive oversteer city. Eventually they moved it to the center of the car for a lower polar moment of inertia. Much more stable. A little rear toe in would be where I'd start, maybe a little more rear camber as well. Sticky-ish tires on soft stock suspension wants a lot of camber. - andrew |
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06-06-2016, 03:57 PM | #3965 | |
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The Following User Says Thank You to Icecreamtruk For This Useful Post: | Racecomp Engineering (06-06-2016) |
06-06-2016, 04:23 PM | #3966 | |
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http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=96120 - Andrew |
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06-06-2016, 04:37 PM | #3967 | |
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You are getting a lot of heat checking, which means you're using em right! It doesn't hurt to have a spare set. If you really want to be on fresh rotors, keep these as a backup; they're perfectly useable, although not ideal. |
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06-06-2016, 04:39 PM | #3968 | |
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An LSD will make the rear end more predictable and progressive, and may be a better modification than a wing, especially if you want to avoid understeer. CSG has several options available for both wings and LSDs. I see experienced drivers consistently wear out stock dampers in 3-5 track days. @dp1 @Pat great ideas, but I believe both of you have experienced a degree of wear and tear |
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06-07-2016, 10:10 AM | #3969 |
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Hi Guys,
I have a relatively standard 86, only changed to Pilot Sports and a couple of small things. Doing camber bolts when I'm home again in a couple of weeks. My question specifically pertains to wheel alignment on the stock suspension with its limited adjustments. With camber bolts in the front (-1.3deg) and standard rear setup (assuming 0deg) the only other material parameter left is the toe settings fore & aft. I would like to understand the difference between front and rear toe out (a) under braking, (b) turn in, (c) steady state cornering & (d) corner exit/power out. If you are also on standard suspension feel free to post your alignment! Thanks!
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06-07-2016, 10:42 AM | #3971 | |
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06-07-2016, 12:31 PM | #3972 | |
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Front toe out is going to most significantly affect turn-in. The car will feel much more responsive since the inboard tire will develop higher slip angles sooner and "pull" the car into the corner, if that makes sense. Rear toe out is going to be a bad thing, generally speaking. It will make the car very darty and unstable. It'll want to come around under hard braking, especially trail braking. It'll seem squirmy under hard acceleration. We usually aim for 0 to 1/16" total toe in for the rear. Keep in mind you can't change anything in a suspension setup without affecting other things to some degree, but those are the most significant effects. Jake |
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06-07-2016, 05:40 PM | #3973 | |
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Toe-in rear will stabilize the rear, while toe-out will make the rear want to wander/rotate. Everything has a reasonable amount to be used, as well as a time and place. More is not better, in any scenario. |
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06-08-2016, 07:50 AM | #3974 |
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Guys with extended studs and open lugs. Do you still use factory 90 ft lbs or what?
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06-08-2016, 08:30 AM | #3975 |
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06-08-2016, 08:42 AM | #3976 | |
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CSG chromoly steel lugs (http://counterspacegarage.com/csg-ra...s-m12x125.html), torqued to 90lb |
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