Innovate (Sprintex) Supercharger Owners Topic

[Setgo]

Originally Posted by ThucP

which belt would you guys recommend? the kit comes with stock 75mm pulley and a 72.5mm raceseng pulley, I will be using the 72.5mm pulley

I'd consider the same belt. The belt that comes with the kit max's the tensioner anyways. A -2.5mm diameter, i would assume, would still be reasonable to use the same belt.

[ThucP]

Originally Posted by Setgo

I'd consider the same belt. The belt that comes with the kit max's the tensioner anyways. A -2.5mm diameter, i would assume, would still be reasonable to use the same belt.

Sorry I meant I want to replace the belt because it's a used kit, where would I find the belt?

[jflogerzi]

Originally Posted by ThucP

Sorry I meant I want to replace the belt because it's a used kit, where would I find the belt?

Look a several posts back. I link the exact belt and idler pulley I use. No issues with 72.5 and 69mm

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[86TOYO2k17]

Originally Posted by ThucP

Sorry I meant I want to replace the belt because it's a used kit, where would I find the belt?

K061015 Is the belt that comes with it, 75mm to 72.5mm is only about a 1.25mm drop in needed belt length which unfortunately the next size down K061010 is 12mm shorter. The factory tensioner has room to pickup the slack. So the K061015 should work fine.

Alternatively you can get a larger diameter supercharger idler pulley and fit a belt accordingly

I posted this one about a year ago on here - Dorman 419-610 It is same bearing width/diameter but it is 76mm diameter instead of 70mm so more belt wrap on SC pulley, and 31mm width instead of 27mm so less chance of belt slipping off but requires about 3mm longer belt with 75mm sc pulley, i used it for a year no issues before switching to below.

I posted this one more recently been using about a month now Dorman 419-606 same bearing width/diameter but it is 82.5mm diameter and 30.5mm width so requires about 6.5mm longer belt with 75mm sc pulley.

K061015 paired with 72.5mm sc pulley and 76mm idler would be a hair tighter than before approximately 1.75mm tighter

K061016 Is 3mm longer paired With 72.5mm sc pulley and 76mm idler pulley it would be a hair looser then before approximately 1.25mm looser
Or with the 82.5mm idler would be approximately 2mm tighter

K061020 Is 12mm longer paired with the 72.5mm sc pulley and 82.5mm Idler pulley it would be a tad looser then before approximately 7mm looser

You want tensioner pulley at about 70-80% of its max Travel/tension so as belt stretches it has plenty of travel to pickup the slack, so you can decide based on current setup if slightly looser or tighter is better, and by how much you can deviate + or -

If you ever switch to the 69mm pulley the 82.5mm idler and k061016 should be a perfect pairing almost identical to original tension only about .5mm tighter.

[kev0]

Does anyone know at what IAT temp does the ECU pull timing? Afaik, the IAT's aren't accurate with this kit and my IAT's are sometimes sporadic. One day, it would go up to as high as 158-165f and other days it would be about 125F.

[86TOYO2k17]

Originally Posted by kev0

Does anyone know at what IAT temp does the ECU pull timing? Afaik, the IAT's aren't accurate with this kit and my IAT's are sometimes sporadic. One day, it would go up to as high as 158-165f and other days it would be about 125F.

Probably depends on how your tuner set it up. And if you relocated it to post blower or still using stock position. If you didn’t relocate your IAT sensor, those are really high.

If i am moving my IAT at stock location is at or below ambient. If I’m sitting idling it creeps up maybe to 120s if i sit long enough. Once moving it goes back down pretty quickly.

[kev0]

Originally Posted by 86TOYO2k17

Probably depends on how your tuner set it up. And if you relocated it to post blower or still using stock position. If you didn’t relocate your IAT sensor, those are really high.

If i am moving my IAT at stock location is at or below ambient. If I’m sitting idling it creeps up maybe to 120s if i sit long enough. Once moving it goes back down pretty quickly.

Ah, gotcha. Forgot to say, my intake pulls in warm air from the engine bay since I'm using Xero-Limit's intake. That definitely makes my IAT's higher I guess.

[jflogerzi]

You should really think about going back to the stock airbox and Cai.

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[86TOYO2k17]

Originally Posted by kev0

Ah, gotcha. Forgot to say, my intake pulls in warm air from the engine bay since I'm using Xero-Limit's intake. That definitely makes my IAT's higher I guess.

If you have E85 i don’t think IATs are as big if a concern.
Because IAT sensor is in MAF pre blower i don’t think most tuners tune use the IAT sensor for tuning. If you relocated to post blower they could probably safely get a little more out of your setup when IAT temps where really low and detune if it got really high and have it adjust accordingly between instead of a general “blanket” tune. But you’ll probably be in the IAT temps that the “blanket” tune is at already in most conditions regardless so it really wouldn’t be much different. And again with E85 it’s less of a concern.

Also I am pretty sure the hotter air pre blower would mean less dense air going into the blower and thus less boost coming out post blower so pre blower IAT temps is already being “adjusted” for naturally because of that. IE at 100 degrees IAT you have say 12psi vs 150 degree IAT 11.5psi so timing and fuel wouldn’t need adjusting to accommodate the added heat if that makes sense.

[LOJOKO]

I run a oil catch for a month. The good news is that There's less oil leaking out.
The bad news is that A code P0108. Check no vacuum leakage. I bought a new map yesterday BOSCH 0261230283...Hope everything goes back to normal...

[LOJOKO]

LOL I think I made a mistake about the MAP sensor mentioned in the CUSCO SC Japanese manual(sprintex in Japan)，It is 4pins and bigger. I even bought it without comparing. LOL Now I have a maximum pressure of 0.7bar about 10.15psi, This seems normal. I just cleared my CEL and it hasn't show up right away. Hope everything will be fine.[IMG][/IMG]

[Kodename47]

It's not ideal running a wider range sensor. You'll need to adjust the tune to get the MAP correct, but also it make it run worse at WOT. You'll need some custom mapping or move the sensor out of the runners. Best bet is to put an OEM sensor back on.

[LOJOKO]

Originally Posted by Kodename47

It's not ideal running a wider range sensor. You'll need to adjust the tune to get the MAP correct, but also it make it run worse at WOT. You'll need some custom mapping or move the sensor out of the runners. Best bet is to put an OEM sensor back on.

I've been using OEM sensors for years. I didn’t understand this during that time. （Learning slowly）
I bought a 2.5-bar sensor a few days ago when I found that it was OEM, but I may not need it now. Thanks to 86TOYO2k17, I asked him in Messages. As you said, OEM sensor with the correct MAF&MAP tune may be the best choice.

[frostyfrs]

I just bought my frs a few weeks back and the owner had one of these installed, I will say, it is very fun