Engine Tune Needed for Track Day?

[Faulkner]

So I have a 2013 FR-S with only 26K miles on the engine. Finally going to take her to the track this summer, but I've read a few things stating the '13 could have latent engine issue that would cause major issues: https://www.reddit.com/r/ft86/commen...k_reliability/

Do I need to a tune before the track?

I am planning on an Oil cooler, but I am concerned right now based on that post.

[86league]

Originally Posted by Faulkner

So I have a 2013 FR-S with only 26K miles on the engine. Finally going to take her to the track this summer, but I've read a few things stating the '13 could have latent engine issue that would cause major issues: https://www.reddit.com/r/ft86/commen...k_reliability/

Do I need to a tune before the track?

I am planning on an Oil cooler, but I am concerned right now based on that post.

I had the same question with my '13. CSG Mike told me : "I would consider most 2013's to be ticking time bombs. What is the manufacturing date of your car? You can find this in the driver's side door jam."

When I replied July '13, he said I shoudl be OK -- March '13 was when they corrected the ECU tune for production.

If the ECU software is updated, Mike told me he didn't consider anything other than an oil cooler necessary, past the normal fluids/pads...

Good luck...

[boredom.is.me]

My car was built in Dec 2012. It has seen plenty of track, autocross, and mountain time. Most of which is between 4k and max rpm at damn near full load. I have 70k miles on my car now. Aside from a throw out bearing and one coil pack that occasionally says "change me, eh never mind I'm good," I haven't had a single drivetrain issue.

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by Faulkner

So I have a 2013 FR-S with only 26K miles on the engine. Finally going to take her to the track this summer, but I've read a few things stating the '13 could have latent engine issue that would cause major issues: https://www.reddit.com/r/ft86/commen...k_reliability/

Do I need to a tune before the track?

I am planning on an Oil cooler, but I am concerned right now based on that post.

You should be fine, it can potentially cause an issue down the road. It's just that the early tune could cause DI seal failure. I'd call the dealer and see if they are willing to do a good faith check and flash it if it is on an old revision.

[Faulkner]

Originally Posted by 86league

I had the same question with my '13. CSG Mike told me : "I would consider most 2013's to be ticking time bombs. What is the manufacturing date of your car? You can find this in the driver's side door jam."

When I replied July '13, he said I shoudl be OK -- March '13 was when they corrected the ECU tune for production.

If the ECU software is updated, Mike told me he didn't consider anything other than an oil cooler necessary, past the normal fluids/pads...

Good luck...

Thanks. I'll check the build date this evening. I bought it certified preowned, so I am hoping all recalls or updates were applied. Can OBDII or the dealer confirm that?

[Faulkner]

Originally Posted by boredom.is.me

My car was built in Dec 2012. It has seen plenty of track, autocross, and mountain time. Most of which is between 4k and max rpm at damn near full load. I have 70k miles on my car now. Aside from a throw out bearing and one coil pack that occasionally says "change me, eh never mind I'm good," I haven't had a single drivetrain issue.

Did you get the updates ECU flash?

[strat61caster]

Originally Posted by Faulkner

Can OBDII or the dealer confirm that?

I don't recall if OBD2 reads the tune info, there's some info out there about the tune ID pre- and post- retard timing fix. The dealer can certainly tell you the tune if they're cooperative, there should be a sticker on the hood if it has been reflashed, but they don't always

As above, I also have a 12/12 build date, pretty sure I had the 'bad' tune, as a casual I put 60k miles on before picking up a tune for the car without issue, 67k now, a couple track days, a couple autox's before the tune.

'Need'? imo no, depends on the skill level though, if you're capable of beating it to 10/10ths as above you probably have a time bomb, if you're a casual dude like most of us, a couple seconds away from that perfect lap, you'll probably be fine (you're not nailing those fast shifts that cause knock, either because of skill or conscious decision). But a $500 tune or even cheaper a reflash of the updated tune with tactrix is cheap insurance against replacing injector seals or a whole engine.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by NoHaveMSG

You should be fine, it can potentially cause an issue down the road. It's just that the early tune could cause DI seal failure. I'd call the dealer and see if they are willing to do a good faith check and flash it if it is on an old revision.

You can check for free with any borrowed Ecutek cable.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by boredom.is.me

My car was built in Dec 2012. It has seen plenty of track, autocross, and mountain time. Most of which is between 4k and max rpm at damn near full load. I have 70k miles on my car now. Aside from a throw out bearing and one coil pack that occasionally says "change me, eh never mind I'm good," I haven't had a single drivetrain issue.

I bet I can change that in a hurry in about 20 miles, without doing anything blatently abusive to the car.

The problem arises from rapid transient throttle position changes.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Faulkner

Thanks. I'll check the build date this evening. I bought it certified preowned, so I am hoping all recalls or updates were applied. Can OBDII or the dealer confirm that?

There are no "recalls" or "updates" to the tune for this particular issue; doing that is akin to admitting fault. Toyota/Subaru took a gamble that the average owner would be out of powertrain warranty before it's an issue, and won that gamble.

The ecu updates that exist are drivability or emissions in nature.

You'd need a tune to eliminate the issue. The tune doesnt fix or eliminate any latent damage; any damage already done will remain, and can potentially cause DI seal failure in the future, but replacing the seals post-tune permanently fixes the problem. Seals are like $3-4 each.

[Faulkner]

Thanks Mike. My build date is: 06/13 on the black driver's side sticker. Is this a clean point? Mine is an AT

I want to track this car and track it often. I guess my options are new seals and a tune or just sell it and move up? I love the car but I don't want to put more money in it. I'd rather save that for the next adventure entirely

Would a tune like this cover the issue? For the cost a may as well get an added benefit

http://www.ft86speedfactory.com/ecut...B#.Ws6jaGaZOT9

[Qadthane]

Originally Posted by Faulkner

Thanks Mike. My build date is: 06/13 on the black driver's side sticker. Is this a clean point?

I want to track this car and track it often. I guess my options are new seals and a tune or just sell it and move up? I love the car but I don't want to put more money in it. I'd rather save that for the next adventure entirely

The build date on mine is 06/13 as well. Mine had the AO1C rom which, if memory serves, is the corrected version. The A00C was the original with knock issues.

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...3&postcount=12

[Faulkner]

Originally Posted by Qadthane

The build date on mine is 06/13 as well. Mine had the AO1C rom which, if memory serves, is the corrected version. The A00C was the original with knock issues.

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...3&postcount=12

Thanks. You didn't have to update your SW to get to the A01C? Would something like this solve the issue too? I need the excuse of an ECU update to get some extra power haha

http://shop.amrperformance.com/produ...includes-tune/

[Qadthane]

No, I didn't need to update to get there. I have the OpenFlash tablet for ECU flashing. I really like it.