Replacing/Upgrading Transmission

[Captain Snooze]

Originally Posted by solidsnake11

Plus have a witch doctor do a ritual on it.

.

[Captain Snooze]

Originally Posted by solidsnake11

I have also read a lot of info on it, my conclusion its as good as voodoo.

I totally disagree. It is no where close to being as good as this:


[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YV78vobCyIo[/ame]


I know, you didn't actually mention people. *shrug* I'm calling artistic license. It's the first thing I think of when I read/hear voodoo.
And yes, this is a thread hijack. I'm bored.

[gtengr]

Originally Posted by solidsnake11

Oem part broke replaced with cryo treated part it broke. This was a high cycle fatigue failure.
I have also read a lot of info on it, my conclusion its as good as voodoo.

Because an accepted steel treatment technology did not completely solve the problem in your application, it's reasonable to conclude that said treatment offers no benefit at all.

[DarkPira7e]

Originally Posted by gtengr

Because an accepted steel treatment technology did not completely solve the problem in your application, it's reasonable to conclude that said treatment offers no benefit at all.

What value is there in treatment if your first hand experience is that it doesn't help? I don't blame him for being sour.

[Lonewolf]

OP - Here is something that may interest you:


https://www.verus-engineering.com/si...-with-Clip-Kit

[gtengr]

Originally Posted by DarkPira7e

What value is there in treatment if your first hand experience is that it doesn't help? I don't blame him for being sour.

One data point = case closed and reason to refer to it literally as voodoo? Given the factory trans rating, cryo treatment could increase durability by 15-20% and the trans would still be overstressed by high boost superchargers with header, most turbo kits, e85, etc. It's already been discussed that it's a waste of money to rebuild an AZ6 with factory gears for higher torque applications, but if someone insists, why not throw everything at it?

Originally Posted by solidsnake11

Well if you did 4 burnouts and it broke then you decided you wanted just 1 more burnout before it breaks then cryo is the answer.

What if it's the difference in a few hundred more burnouts for the car making 25 ft-lbs less than yours?

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by solidsnake11

Odds are if its going to break without cryo its going to break with it. Just my opinion.

My transmission was chipped at the snap ring without abuse, only roll ons and granny shifts.

We tried cryo on the chucks and drives on our vertical lathes that make rotors.
We found that:

It only works on very specific materials. Any material lower than tool level steel just became brittle and tended to shatter.

On the materials where it would work it rapidly increased the wear on the untreated parts that contacted, held or spun the treated ones. If you can't do every part that contacts it you are just moving wear issues down the line to something else.

On the lower speed parts it was impossible to determine if it was reducing wear at all. Any changes in wear over a period of time were so small that we could not even measure them. The really high speed parts did have a minimal measurable decrease in wear but as I said the parts attached to them had a corresponding increase so it was a wash.

Places that can do it right are rare. There are places that claim to be able to do it but metallurgic analysis of their "treated" parts showed virtually no change over standard.

It is bloody expensive to have it done properly! We calculated that we could buy almost two (1.8 if I remember right) new standard parts for every one treated one. That is not a good return on investment.

All in all it is not something I would have done on a cheap Japanese car tranny no matter how much power I was putting through it.

[DarkPira7e]

Originally Posted by gtengr

One data point = case closed and reason to refer to it literally as voodoo?

Everyone is entitled to an opinion, right? I'm not saying he's accurate, I'm saying he has experience and is sharing his insight

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by solidsnake11

This is mostly what I found when I was researching it a few years ago.
Thank you.

To be clear there were places which did it that showed substantial changes after the treatment.

But...

Unless it was the right base materials those changes were not always good!

There certainly is value in it for very specific applications but it is not a fix all that can just be applied and work well for everything. Took us over two years of trials and analysis to determine that it was a waste of money for our needs. It did however work out really well for the equipment in our caliper plant though.

[Milhouse86]

So what's the best option today? Did I read we can swap in a 350z trans? How's that running? Gonna start searching but if anyone can help point me that would be great!

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

[Nitemare15]

Guys, I seriously appreciate all of the information and help. I'm not looking to go to insane boost levels. I don't even want to go above 250whp. It looks like the HKS kit that I've been looking at pushes right at 250whp on 91 or 268whp on 93. Assuming I don't want to drop $5,000 on the CD009 listed above (and I do understand that with ANY amount of boost there is the chance of failure) is it safe to say that I'll have minimal issues with a rebuilt AZ6? Or is there really no way to tell? When I rebuild the transmission, I plan on also going to a more sturdy clutch, verus clutch fork and TOB, shift springs and a short throw shifter (already purchased the shifter actually). If the serious suggestion and only reliable option is a transmission swap, I may have to put all of this on hold for a bit longer. $5000 is almost double what I've budgeted at this point for a transmission..

[Sleepless]

I’ve beat the hell out (mostly road course driving) of stock trans and clutch for 3 years with JRSC with zero issues. Edlebrock does need a clutch upgrade.

[86TOYO2k17]

@Nitemare15
Stock manual transmission is rated at 250nm or 185ft lbs torque. Gears start shearing around 240ft lbs torque. (Individual experiences and driving conditions may differ)
Centrifugal superchargers don't make much torque more about top end whp. Probably the easiest on engine/drivetrain out of any FI options.

185ft lbs at crank at 7000rpm is 246hp. So stock clutch may start slipping a little at 240whp+

[Nitemare15]

Whoa! Okay that makes me feel a hell of a lot better. I'll most likely go with the rebuilt AZ6 route then from Jack's. I've read reviews and apparently they do a stellar job and seem to resolve any issues that the AZ6 had from the factory. Like I said previously, I'll most likely upgrade the clutch while I've got the transmission pulled. I haven't done much looking for SCs but I've heard good things about HKS.