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Old 02-25-2021, 05:03 PM   #75685
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Their ain't nutten wrong with the OEM transmission - iffen ya jest learn how to shift it proper -

humfrz off to nap
I know how to drive stick, JFC.
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Old 02-25-2021, 05:20 PM   #75686
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Much ado about the intake manifold. I took one look at that thing and predicted the only change would be an upward shift in the first torque bump. Bigger plenum, shorter runners = higher resonant frequency.

Ace 150 or the Anaconda requires head rework in order to be advantageous. That killed my dreams of high-rpm NA gains a couple years ago. Same reason as yours. I want to keep mine in that sweet spot for streetability. It's already perfect, IMHO. Maybe an ACE 350 someday but I'm shy about tuning too. I stare at the engine and can't help but appreciate what has been accomplished ...for a two-liter flat-four.

Maybe a better transmission.

I wasn’t expecting anything, but there isn’t any independent test data on that part so I was curious. I was getting worried the negativity would run the OP off before we heard anything ala RacerX.

Just keep a spare transmission and shift like a goon. That’s what I do.


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Old 02-25-2021, 05:39 PM   #75687
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Just keep a spare transmission and shift like a goon. That’s what I do.
Me too!
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Old 02-25-2021, 05:48 PM   #75688
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I know how to drive stick, JFC.




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Old 02-25-2021, 05:52 PM   #75689
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*giggle*
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Old 02-25-2021, 06:08 PM   #75690
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Much ado about the intake manifold. I took one look at that thing and predicted the only change would be an upward shift in the first torque bump. Bigger plenum, shorter runners = higher resonant frequency.

Ace 150 or the Anaconda requires head rework in order to be advantageous. That killed my dreams of high-rpm NA gains a couple years ago. Same reason as yours. I want to keep mine in that sweet spot for streetability. It's already perfect, IMHO. Maybe an ACE 350 someday but I'm shy about tuning too. I stare at the engine and can't help but appreciate what has been accomplished ...for a two-liter flat-four.

Maybe a better transmission.
For streetability I can't stress enough how happy I am with a supercharger and nothing crazy. Only a catback, pump gas, and a stock header. The car still happily revs up to redline with just a noticeable bit more everything everywhere.

I do say this while openly acknowledging that if you're shy about tuning, the thought of forced induction is likely completely out the window. In addition, a decent SC kit will cost quite a bit more than even an ACE 350 header. I also admit that the only reason I went this route, and am saying something now, is because I've yet to hear a naturally aspirated FA20 with catless header that doesn't sound like amplified wet ass. The degree of flappiness in said ass depends upon whether it's an EL or UEL header.

Really I just wanted to make the ass joke. Sorry, ichi.
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Old 02-25-2021, 06:45 PM   #75691
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Sometimes I really wish I knew how to tell noises in our cars apart. :|

I _think_ my TOB is actually going now, because lately I've been hearing some type of maybe high-ish pitched scratching noise. It definitely stops if I depress the clutch and it happens for sure even crawling in 1st/2nd or at a stop in neutral.

I've had noises for a while but usually they go away after warmed up (one of them is like a marble rolling around kind of noise that doesn't happen if the clutch is depressed or if the car is warmed up).
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It sounds to me like the delicate, metallic sounds of piston skirts slapping against the cylinder walls
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Now, if it was three feet long and you were using all that leverage
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Old 02-25-2021, 07:35 PM   #75692
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Really I just wanted to make the ass joke. Sorry, ichi.
ScoobsMcgee - Naturally ass-pirated

I know one of the best tooners in the business who has moved on to bigger and better. While he got great results, I openly disputed some aspects of his methodology during many of our shit-talking happy hours. You know that adage about how an expert is aware of how much he doesn't know? I'm a control systems expert with little experience in engine management.

I'm also super picky about my shit. When something breaks, I want to know exactly how "I" broke it.

FI is great fun! I'm jealous whenever I see or drive one. Someday...
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Old 02-25-2021, 07:37 PM   #75693
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Right? That's what we did, when we sold our house. Got multiple offers. Picked one, and went on. There was 1 hiccup, but that was buyer side loan issue and not on my side.

So we put the offer. Seller didn't like the EM, so they counter offer wanting $20k EM. We counter offer w $5k EM or $10k EM w seller paying up to $5k on the closing. They're still not convinced that we want that house. Seller is an agent/co-worker of my agent (they work same place). I told my agent that we really like that house and not planning to back out, UNLESS it's a meth house or some dead bodies are hidden. Even then, he's not convinced. I'm at this point, I'm questioning his business ethics and having a doubt of the house... well more like when we do house inspection and need to fix, he gonna cheap out or bitch at us. Now, I'm questioning his business ethics and questioning the house now. Side of my head, he just want that $10k because he knows there's something wrong w the house and take that $10k.
WALK AWAY.

This is like those moments in the car dealership where the gold chain wearing, greasy hair salesman smiles, draws a 4 square and in an authoritative voice, demands to know " what can I do to get you in this car today?" As you watch out the window to see them intentionally block your car in so you can't leave.

Get out, it ain't worth the cost of admission.
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Old 02-25-2021, 07:38 PM   #75694
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Sometimes I really wish I knew how to tell noises in our cars apart. :|

I _think_ my TOB is actually going now, because lately I've been hearing some type of maybe high-ish pitched scratching noise. It definitely stops if I depress the clutch and it happens for sure even crawling in 1st/2nd or at a stop in neutral.

I've had noises for a while but usually they go away after warmed up (one of them is like a marble rolling around kind of noise that doesn't happen if the clutch is depressed or if the car is warmed up).
Lots and lots of experience looking for, and fixing noises. Still they can be extremely frustrating. You are describing the dying TOB sound. Don't delay. Right now you don't need a new clutch. You will if you wait until it seizes/frags.
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Old 02-25-2021, 07:56 PM   #75695
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Lots and lots of experience looking for, and fixing noises. Still they can be extremely frustrating. You are describing the dying TOB sound. Don't delay. Right now you don't need a new clutch. You will if you wait until it seizes/frags.
Welp! Thanks for the advice! I'll get that scheduled for hopefully sometime in the next few weeks if the shop is available.

Will they be able to tell the condition of the clutch when they replace the pivot/TOB? The reason I'm curious is because since I did learn to drive stick from the get-go with this car I almost wonder if I may need to replace it also, but I'm only at 41k miles.
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It sounds to me like the delicate, metallic sounds of piston skirts slapping against the cylinder walls
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Now, if it was three feet long and you were using all that leverage
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Old 02-25-2021, 07:57 PM   #75696
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Originally Posted by spike021 View Post
Sometimes I really wish I knew how to tell noises in our cars apart. :|

I _think_ my TOB is actually going now, because lately I've been hearing some type of maybe high-ish pitched scratching noise. It definitely stops if I depress the clutch and it happens for sure even crawling in 1st/2nd or at a stop in neutral.

I've had noises for a while but usually they go away after warmed up (one of them is like a marble rolling around kind of noise that doesn't happen if the clutch is depressed or if the car is warmed up).
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ultramaroon View Post
Lots and lots of experience looking for, and fixing noises. Still they can be extremely frustrating. You are describing the dying TOB sound. Don't delay. Right now you don't need a new clutch. You will if you wait until it seizes/frags.
Just made an appointment for next month to replace my clutch, bearings, fork/fork pivot, and cable (I'm not about to try to drop a transmission alone in my driveway). I'm only replacing the clutch out of abundance of caution to accommodate more power should I completely lose my sanity. The noises you described are exactly like I experienced when my TOB started to go. You can get an updated one from your local dealership that should last longer for ~ $50. Make sure it has a white dot on the side as shown.

https://www.ft86club.com/forums/show...3&postcount=65
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Old 02-25-2021, 08:00 PM   #75697
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Just made an appointment for next month to replace my clutch, bearings, fork/fork pivot, and cable (I'm not about to try to drop a transmission alone in my driveway). I'm only replacing the clutch out of abundance of caution to accommodate more power should I completely lose my sanity. The noises you described are exactly like I experienced when my TOB started to go. You can get an updated one from your local dealership that should last longer for ~ $50. Make sure it has a white dot on the side as shown.

https://www.ft86club.com/forums/show...3&postcount=65
I was thinking I can do the Verus forged fork and get their TOB kit, which has the updated OEM TOB. Just emailed my shop to see if they can get those for me or if I should order them myself.

But with what Ultra said, I'm not sure if I should deal with replacing the clutch itself yet.
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Quote:
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It sounds to me like the delicate, metallic sounds of piston skirts slapping against the cylinder walls
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tcoat View Post
Now, if it was three feet long and you were using all that leverage
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Old 02-25-2021, 08:08 PM   #75698
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I was thinking I can do the Verus forged fork and get their TOB kit, which has the updated OEM TOB. Just emailed my shop to see if they can get those for me or if I should order them myself.

But with what Ultra said, I'm not sure if I should deal with replacing the clutch itself yet.
i'm only at 40k, but keep thinking about doing the verus fork and TOB...
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