Installed/How-To: 2014 Forester XT OEM Oil Cooler(pics!)

[sickmint79]

oem radiator?

[jvincent]

Yep.

[Apex_BRZ]

Originally Posted by jvincent

OK, just got the data from the track.

Max oil temp was 124C, or 255F. That was for one sample. The rest of the time it was 122C or lower.

Coolant was pretty steady at 93C to 94C all around.

What was the ambient air temp? Which track? Coolant temp seems awful low if it's doing double duty for oil temps. How hard were you pushing the car?

For those wanting a comparison for an aftermarket oil cooler on a stock power car driven very hard on track during a warm day:

Jackson Racing Oil Cooler
N/A BRZ (no power mods)
Track: Road America
Ambient Temp: 75F
Highest Oil Temp: 224F
Highest Coolant Temp: 210F

[jvincent]

Ambient was around 20C. The track is Calabogie just outside of Ottawa.

It was the first day of the season for me, so I wasn't pushing terribly hard through all the corners but I had it to the rev limiter on the main straight pretty much every time.

[sickmint79]

Originally Posted by Apex_BRZ

What was the ambient air temp? Which track? Coolant temp seems awful low if it's doing double duty for oil temps. How hard were you pushing the car?

For those wanting a comparison for an aftermarket oil cooler on a stock power car driven very hard on track during a warm day:

Jackson Racing Oil Cooler
N/A BRZ (no power mods)
Track: Road America
Ambient Temp: 75F
Highest Oil Temp: 224F
Highest Coolant Temp: 210F

i plotted my lap at autobahn here. sure i have the data at home of other temps, in any case my shiz got hot. it's kind of junk data until the real laps start. stock power.

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CL5OeHDvIHc"]Subaru BRZ at Autobahn race track in joliet with mvp track time - YouTube[/ame]

i'll be back out here again in 11 days for a 2 day weekend with bmw, and my first track day of the year. will be stage 2 flex fuel so maybe e85 maybe 93? also now have koyo radiator, this oil cooler, and the headers will be swaintech coated. all in maybe too many variables to really get a good feel for what just the oil cooler does, nonetheless i'll have data after that weekend.

[Kiske]

Tried this with my turbo kit using it for cooling before getting a regular air-to-oil cooler. I did notice a difference. Warmups in the morning to 150F seemed almost 3-5min quicker. Temps in general stayed about 3-5F cooler, however when the car was pushed to an oil temp above 220-230F the OEM cooler seems to get heatsoaked and the ability to lower the temps signifigantly reduced. I should add all my testing was done on a turbo (Full Blown) car with their upgraded (bigger) radiator, and Spal 12" dual fans.

IMO it is NOT sufficient by itself for oil cooling and turbo applications on our platform. It however seems to be great for getting up to temp faster. It helps on the daily drive sure but, any sort of beating on the car or forbid a track day will make this cooler useless. I however really do like the quicker warmups (based on oil temp gauge,) and didn't want to part with it, yet still need better oil cooling...



so....



I called Mishimoto who has a new oil cooler setup for their 2015 WRX that works WITH the OEM WRX/Forester oil cooler setup. They (though customer service) let me buy just the adaptor sandwhich plate and threaded center bolt/nut for $15+shipping that fits onto the OEM style oil-cooler, clearing the larger anti-spill ring around the oil filter.

Here is the part numbers... or what is on my invoice for the bolt and sandwhich plate.

-Mishimoto 288 Kitted in US $7.50 Extended: $7.50

-Mishimoto 1020 Kitted in USA to make MMSPA-M20. M20 x 1.5 -- M20 x 1.5 (no dashes) w/ zipper poly bag. $7.50 Extended: $7.50

Will let you guys know how it goes. Hope to have the parts by next Wednesday.

[mit_peid]

You're saying that thing is only $7.50?!?!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Kiske]

Originally Posted by mit_peid

You're saying that thing is only $7.50?!?!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm still shocked myself. I had to double check and send the same picture I posted here to the service rep to make sure. I'll know 100% next week when it arrives.

Right now my setup is looking like

Mishimoto adaptor plate, $7.50
Mishimoto center bolt, $7.50
Setrab 19row, $180.00
Earls -10AN fittings, $49.00
Braided oil line 6', $50~ish

Whole setup looks to be just under $300~

[mit_peid]

Looks like the bolt itself is $22 MSRP and you might have gotten an early version of the WRX sandwich plate that isn't on their website yet?

http://www.mishimoto.com/stainless-s...apter-m20.html

[Kiske]

Originally Posted by mit_peid

Looks like the bolt itself is $22 MSRP and you might have gotten an early version of the WRX sandwich plate that isn't on their website yet?

http://www.mishimoto.com/stainless-s...apter-m20.html

Will know 100% Wednesday when she shows up. It should be the exact adaptor shown in the 2015 WRX pictures, it is the only one that they make that will clear the factory oil cooler w/o the seperate thermostatic plate.

[sickmint79]

ok fellas i have a bunch of data and pics.

first up is autobahn full in august. i don't recall outdoor temps and am too lazy to look up. iirc i don't think the airaid was even in at this point. actually now i'm thinking it was. in any case, here is my data from several sessions from the day. i have oil temp (blue), coolant temp (red), and intake temp (green) all on the left axis in F - on the second axis for shits although not that interesting is first cat temp (thin purple). i'm using amsoil 0w20 signature series in these first two charts.



so pretty hotsy motsy and where i rendered this data on one of my videos.

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CL5OeHDvIHc"]Subaru BRZ at Autobahn race track in joliet with mvp track time - YouTube[/ame]


i did a day at gingerman a bit later. also hot stuff.



i sent in the oil for analysis to blackstone. it was freshly put in oil, after the autobahn full track day (single day) iirc. they responded with this:



obd2 does not provide oil pressure. i was a bit worried. per @Dezoris's thread/vid
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=76760

STREET TEMPS
0W20 Redline

0w20 Redline 185F @ 800RPM 10PSI Oil Pressure
0w20 Redline 185F @ 2000RPM 35PSI Oil Pressure
0w20 Redline 185F @ 4000RPM 54PSI Oil Pressure
0w20 Redline 185F @ 7000RPM 65PSI Oil Pressure

10W30 Redline

10w30 Redline 185F @ 800RPM 19PSI Oil Pressure
10w30 Redline 185F @ 2000RPM 51PSI Oil Pressure
10w30 Redline 185F @ 4000RPM 65PSI Oil Pressure
10w30 Redline 185F @ 7000RPM 83PSI Oil Pressure

10W40 Redline

10w40 Redline 185F @ 800RPM 25PSI Oil Pressure
10w40 Redline 185F @ 2000RPM 64PSI Oil Pressure
10w40 Redline 185F @ 4000RPM 78PSI Oil Pressure
10w40 Redline 185F @ 7000RPM 91PSI Oil Pressure


TRACK TEMPS AFTER 9 LAPS @ 1 Minute 15 Seconds Per Lap
0W20 Redline

0w20 Redline 225F @ 800RPM 7PSI Oil Pressure
0w20 Redline 225F @ 2000RPM 30PSI Oil Pressure
0w20 Redline 225F @ 4000RPM 48PSI Oil Pressure
0w20 Redline 225F @ 7000RPM 43PSI Oil Pressure


10W30 Redline

10w30 Redline 245F @ 800RPM 7PSI Oil Pressure
10w30 Redline 245F @ 2000RPM 35PSI Oil Pressure
10w30 Redline 245F @ 4000RPM 52PSI Oil Pressure
10w30 Redline 245F @ 7000RPM 46PSI Oil Pressure

10W40 Redline (12 Laps)

10w40 Redline 265F @ 800RPM 8PSI Oil Pressure
10w40 Redline 265F @ 2000RPM 31PSI Oil Pressure
10w40 Redline 265F @ 4000RPM 55PSI Oil Pressure
10w40 Redline 265F @ 7000RPM 45PSI Oil Pressure

i am unclear exactly what is "bad" and it seems to be the desires pressure is r's x 10 + 10 so 3000 rpm = 40 desires, 6000 rpm = 70 desired.

based on the above, i decided to try a heavier oil. although the manual also says 5w30, i went for 10w30. no FI and i figured 30 seemed heavier enough to provide benefits. my (internet myth?) understanding is the narrower range means it can withstand more "abuse" - based on essentially nothing. some of the stats between 5w30 amsoil signature and 10w30 look close enough that i'm wondering if i bought the wrong oil, and that 5w30 would take the same heat but be better for cold starts.

installed a bunch of shit since these track days -
flex fuel kit, delicious stage 2 tune
ceramic coated jdl el catted header - amazingly you can touch it after a session
gold wrapped my intake
zeek air scoop snorkel
forester oil cooler
koyo radiator

so not apples/apples with only one element changed here. also installed sandwich plate with oil pressure and temp guages. i set the "oh noes" mark for oil at 260 and pressure at 40.

now that i have all this infos, it was interesting to me to see how long it actually takes to warm up the oil. although it is now quicker to warm it up than without this kit, it still takes a few minutes - i never realized that. my putzing around town seems to sit around 180-190 degrees. being more of a bone 200-210. cruising down the highway sitting at 80-85 i hit 220, 60 psi and at 3.5k rpm.

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zKKKnGRVXB8[/ame]


no data or video for pressure on track but i appear to have more favorable results than dezoris. i will mount a camera to the left of my helmet this saturday at gingerman to get a view of them. i was concentrating more on driving and had an instructor as well, so didn't want to appear (and be) distracted looking at these things, but what i did notice - oil would get up to 240-260 but around 6000 rpm, iirc, my pressure was still looking pretty good - 60+. this seems much better than the results above.

i also noticed during cool down the temps rapidly came down. certainly working great there. the first day was my first track day for the year, and the first 2 sessions were quite wet. i got braver on the next 2 as it dried out and i was becoming more familiar with the car and track and driving at my own pace again, which i consider an intermediate+ driver.

the second day was cooler out but stayed dry. it might have been around the same temp in the afternoon (70s/low 80s?). these were 25 minute sessions.

the data is as follows:





i parked next to my buddy jeff with an e36 m3 that seems to be reliable as hell, and he appears to cruise all day long with no problems at 200. a few cars down was a guy with a gutted e46 m3 and a bigger aftermarket oil cooler who gunned for 240-260. so that being not ideal, but kind of acceptable, at least made me feel a bit better about my temps.

i flirt with the idea of a twin screw sc kit some time next year, although probably better for me to get more seat time than more power (but hard to resist!)

in any case i am looking for opinions on the current situation. if heat is the enemy it would seem arguable that i should simply get a regular air oil cooler. note i am in chicagoland but do not drive this in the winter (although would when it is cooler out but not snow season.) or if this is an acceptable range and my oil pressure is acceptable, perhaps i should simply happily cruise along with the state as-is until i do do something more drastic like add FI? thoughts? tagging a bunch of people from track/oil threads.

@Dezoris @CSG Mike @Amadeus @rice_classic @smbrm @smbstyle @Dave-ROR @CSG David

[Dezoris]

Originally Posted by sickmint79

ok fellas i have a bunch of data and pics.

first up is autobahn full in august. i don't recall outdoor temps and am too lazy to look up. iirc i don't think the airaid was even in at this point. actually now i'm thinking it was. in any case, here is my data from several sessions from the day. i have oil temp (blue), coolant temp (red), and intake temp (green) all on the left axis in F - on the second axis for shits although not that interesting is first cat temp (thin purple). i'm using amsoil 0w20 signature series in these first two charts.



so pretty hotsy motsy and where i rendered this data on one of my videos.

i did a day at gingerman a bit later. also hot stuff.


i sent in the oil for analysis to blackstone. it was freshly put in oil, after the autobahn full track day (single day) iirc. they responded with this:



obd2 does not provide oil pressure. i was a bit worried. per @Dezoris's thread/vid
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=76760



i am unclear exactly what is "bad" and it seems to be the desires pressure is r's x 10 + 10 so 3000 rpm = 40 desires, 6000 rpm = 70 desired.

based on the above, i decided to try a heavier oil. although the manual also says 5w30, i went for 10w30. no FI and i figured 30 seemed heavier enough to provide benefits. my (internet myth?) understanding is the narrower range means it can withstand more "abuse" - based on essentially nothing. some of the stats between 5w30 amsoil signature and 10w30 look close enough that i'm wondering if i bought the wrong oil, and that 5w30 would take the same heat but be better for cold starts.




in any case i am looking for opinions on the current situation. if heat is the enemy it would seem arguable that i should simply get a regular air oil cooler. note i am in chicagoland but do not drive this in the winter (although would when it is cooler out but not snow season.) or if this is an acceptable range and my oil pressure is acceptable, perhaps i should simply happily cruise along with the state as-is until i do do something more drastic like add FI? thoughts? tagging a bunch of people from track/oil threads.

@Dezoris @CSG Mike @Amadeus @rice_classic @smbrm @smbstyle @Dave-ROR @CSG David

I responded to your FB post. But long story short in the summer you can run 10w30 just keep a close eye on your pressures near 7400, you don't want to be running in the 40psi range. If you start running longer sessions and getting faster you can switch to 10w40 but only during summer/hot months then go back to 0w20 if you are running in the winter as heating up 10w30+ takes a lot longer here. Your coolant based oil cooler will help heat up faster but still longer.

Also once your radiator heat soaks you lose your cooling efficiency from the cooler you have, since you are tuned have your tuner switch your coolant fan activation point to 200F, this will help get you anywhere from 5-10F cooler on track in terms of oil and coolant temps on average.

From there your option becomes a liquid to air setup like most people run and your only option for FI along with 10w40/10w30 for track in summer months.

[rice_classic]

260 oil temp is hot, but nothing to worry about, especially if it's measured in the pan.

Too little oil pressure is something to worry about. Here's my thought on that...

If you double duty the car, then bump up the oil weight and make the fans come on sooner (like Dezoris said). If you find that you have to bump the oil wt so much it becomes a bad option for daily driving (like if you need a 20w-50) then you may want to consider a pressure relief valve shim. A 5w-40 might be where you end up which is fine for double duty (DD/Track) in the summer time but you'll want to go back to a 0w-20 in the winter.

Finally, since your radiator is doing double duty (also heat-exchanging your oil) then you're going to want to increase it's efficiency which can be done by bringing those fans on earlier (like 180F) and installing shrouding around your radiator so no air can escape around/below/above it and thus way more air will be forced through it and your radiator efficiency will increase quite a bit which will help reduce cooling system heat soak which stands a good chance of bringing down the oil temps a bit and in doing so will also increase oil pressure (oil won't be so thin).

Stay safe, have fun.

[sickmint79]

Originally Posted by rice_classic

260 oil temp is hot, but nothing to worry about, especially if it's measured in the pan.

the data is from the obd2, i get pressure and temp from a sandwich plate, which i noticed yesterday was 3-5 degrees lower than obd2.

Too little oil pressure is something to worry about. Here's my thought on that...

If you double duty the car, then bump up the oil weight and make the fans come on sooner (like Dezoris said). If you find that you have to bump the oil wt so much it becomes a bad option for daily driving (like if you need a 20w-50) then you may want to consider a pressure relief valve shim. A 5w-40 might be where you end up which is fine for double duty (DD/Track) in the summer time but you'll want to go back to a 0w-20 in the winter.

did i gain anything by choosing 10w30 vs 5w30?

is what i lost, my understanding to be more friction at cold temp startups now, from 40/50 degrees upwards (spring/summer/fall) meaningful?

what would i lose by going 5w40?