05-24-2021, 10:12 AM | #15 |
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Something that has been on my mind for a while regarding the transmission, why not use the bmw zf 5speed along with a shifter that mounts to the tunnel like the AKG or Bimmer world. The transmission is lighter, I’m assuming stronger, it’s not prohibitively expensive and the adapter already exists. Additionally, eliminating the shift carrier simplifies things and reduces cost. The downside is they are old.
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05-24-2021, 05:37 PM | #16 | |
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05-25-2021, 12:15 AM | #17 |
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Turbo et al came in. Looks good with minor blemishes. Wheel spins freely and well. Overall, it looks solid. I’ll have to see how it does in the real world when the time comes. It shipped from China DHL express in a few days. I got an extended T3 oil drain flange that is several inches long to clear the turbo and make mounting a -10AN line easier, or maybe it’ll be harder if the manifold gets in the way. I guess I’ll see. That piece is coming from Kentucky.
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05-25-2021, 02:12 AM | #18 |
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I am working on all the fittings and lines for the turbo pluming.
The turbo has: -4AN Oil feed -6AN Coolant feed (x4) -T3 to -10AN Oil return This distribution port would work well. I will run the stock oil pressure sensor from the end. I will run a brass 1/8 PT/BSP female to 1/8 NPT male to one of the NPT ports for attachment of my Defi oil pressure gauge and another for the oil temperature gauge and the final NPT port will have a -4AN to NPT fitting. https://k-tuned.3dcartstores.com/New...ter-_b_52.html The oil feed line will run from the port adapter with a -4AN to -4AN 90 degree fitting that connects to the -4AN brass adapter going into the turbo. The oil return will be a -10AN to -10AN with the potential for a 45/90/120 degree fitting if necessary to direct the lines, but the end will probably go to this -10AN to -10AN ORB adapter to the port on the cover posted earlier. https://www.anhosefittings.com/an-90...b-adapter.html Now, I just need to figure out the coolant lines.
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05-25-2021, 02:47 AM | #19 |
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You are amazing and it's lovely to see how you are figuring out things yourself. I would hire a professional garage and leave them with the hard work but honestly hats off to you for persevering!
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05-25-2021, 06:06 PM | #20 | |
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05-25-2021, 08:07 PM | #21 |
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So, to be clear, most Honda cranks if they need to be machined need to be re-nitrided which will set you back another $500 just for that plus machining. So look for a low mileage motor or expect delay/cost.
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05-25-2021, 09:03 PM | #22 | |
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Good info. For now, I will be using stock internals. Assuming the motor survives my modest goals, it will be years before I crack it open. I start nursing school this fall.
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05-25-2021, 09:16 PM | #23 |
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So apparently the oil adapter could be bad or lead to leaks. The one above is a second version, so maybe the comment below doesn’t apply. I might consider doing a sandwich plate. I will likely run an oil cooler, so maybe a sandwich plat will be better. I’ll have to do more researching.
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05-26-2021, 03:55 PM | #24 |
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Garrett suggests clocking the turbo to 20 degrees and running the water lines to either side of the center housing with the cool side feeding the lower inlet and the hotter return leaving the higher outlet. Garrett specifically says not to run both lines to one side of the turbo, that someone should always run them to opposite sides. The idea is that heat rises in a fluid, so there will be a thermosiphoning effect where the coolant will flow when the car turns off. If it is flat then there will be less flow and less cooling. Clock the turbo too much and oil draining will suffer. With that said, here is the stock K20C1 with two water lines running to the same side of the turbo. It could be made different. If it is bad to run it to both sides then why supply four lines? Do some people run four lines? Is it because a manifold pipe could be in the way, so it provides an offset plug to clear a line? I don’t know.
This article discusses everything. https://www.garrettmotion.com/racing...or-your-turbo/ Borg-Warner have a similar discussion. The difference between the https://www.borgwarner.com/docs/defa...ining_book.pdf As we can see, there are four water jacket ports, so it isn’t like the turbocharger on the CTR has a CHRA that has a horseshoe instead of a donut water section. Either it doesn’t matter, or Honda knows it is better to run the water pipes on opposite sides, but doesn’t care, or it doesn’t matter because they run the water pump after shutdown, so the system is dependent on thermal siphoning.
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05-28-2021, 05:19 PM | #25 | |
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I'm also following Oren's build and I don't recall seeing anything thus far with regards to his CD009 mating with the K24. I believe he said as long as you have the FAVQ adapter, it should work? A final verdict on this would be great because if there is a serious fitment issue then that makes a K24 turbo project almost pointless. IMO simply not worth it to build a 500hp K24 turbo just to mate it to the stock transmission... |
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05-28-2021, 05:28 PM | #26 | |
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05-28-2021, 08:40 PM | #27 | |
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KPower will be coming out with a ZF option down the road for turbo builds. I will eventually upgrade to this transmission most likely unless a CD009 swap is also released. This says the ZF is rated to 273tq, but it will do much more. The stock 86 transmission is rated for like 176tq or something, but I was running around 275wtq. I'm sure my stock tranny will be destroyed next https://kpower.industries/collection...dapter-package https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ZF_S6-37_transmission TF-Works has a CD009 to K-series adapter and flywheel. I believe someone would need to make some custom transmission mounts and use the shift below. https://www.tf-works.com/k-series-to...llet-flywheel/ https://www.serialnine.com/cd999-shifter
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06-02-2021, 03:51 PM | #28 |
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I purchased a Drift Armor front crash bar. This isn’t needed, but I wanted something that would allow for more flexibility and room for mounting the FMIC and for running the IC piping. I also bought a Honda coolant overflow tank that I want to use to replace the huge windshield washer reservoir. I plan to retrofit the filler neck and pump to this new reservoir.
I bought a Berk catted front pipe. That has delays but should be here in a few weeks. I bought some titanium exhaust studs for the header. I’ve had bolt mounting/clearance problems and broken/worn bolts in the past. These should make installation and reliability better. I bought a Mishimoto S-Line FMIC. I opted for the black powdercoated version for stealth. Very nice quality for the price.
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