Suggestions for separating trans from the block

[twistednoble]

Yea I really feel like I'm insane. I was spinning that tone wheel on the back of the crank smoothly, trying to get it to line up with the bolt holes. There wasn't a key present for me to catch on or slide into a flywheel bolt hole.

[twistednoble]

I would have noticed it since I was trying to figure out how to hold the timing plate since there was no way to keep it against the crank while lined the flywheel up.

I have the whole thing back together, is there any way to check the alignment without pulling the whole damn thing back apart and checking? Again I'm a one man crew, I had to go bother a neighboor to have him hold a bar while I replaced the flywheel. I also really don't want to have to tear the whole thing apart again if there is a way I can verify without literally undoing EVERYTHING again.

[EndlessAzure]

Originally Posted by twistednoble

How is that key anchored in the crank? Is it fixed in one spot and the hole is blind or can it be shoved through the crank to make the trigger wheel flush? I'm looking through iRacer's build thread and I do not recall that pin being in place or the extra hole in the plate and I definitely would have noticed them. I feel like I'm going crazy.

Wouldn't it being misaligned result in a P0335 error like Khrono had? Or if I had really jacked up the timing plate shouldn't it be panicking and throwing a P0016 since it would appear to the ECM that the crank is out of alignment?

Definitely a valid concern but the reason I don't jump to agree is that I have no codes and the engine is literally on the cusp of starting most of the time. It acts identically to when I'm working out of a hotel in 10 degree weather and trying to start the car with a tank full of e85 leading me to immediately think "tune problem".

See @Ultramaroon for service manual link


It's another knock pin essentially. If you torque the flywheel onto the crank but neglect to set the reluctor wheel slot onto the key, you'll just press the pin flush onto the crankshaft face.

[EndlessAzure]

Originally Posted by twistednoble

I would have noticed it since I was trying to figure out how to hold the timing plate since there was no way to keep it against the crank while lined the flywheel up.

I have the whole thing back together, is there any way to check the alignment without pulling the whole damn thing back apart and checking? Again I'm a one man crew, I had to go bother a neighboor to have him hold a bar while I replaced the flywheel. I also really don't want to have to tear the whole thing apart again if there is a way I can verify without literally undoing EVERYTHING again.

I have a nifty trick for you so you don't need to ask for a buddy when torquing the flywheel bolts. You just need a combo wrench


https://www.ft86club.com/forums/show...31&postcount=3

[twistednoble]

I have many many cuss words to say. I guess I'll be speed running a transmission drop again tomorrow. I really need this damn car to be back on the road on Monday.

[twistednoble]

Originally Posted by EndlessAzure

I have a nifty trick for you so you don't need to ask for a buddy when torquing the flywheel bolts. You just need a combo wrench


https://www.ft86club.com/forums/show...31&postcount=3

Thanks, now I just need a way to keep the timing wheel anchored since I almost definitely pressed the dowel flat into the crank.

[EndlessAzure]

Originally Posted by twistednoble

Thanks, now I just need a way to keep the timing wheel anchored since I almost definitely pressed the dowel flat into the crank.

Well luckily the reluctor wheel is constrained by the same bolts as the flywheel. They key also serves as a helping hand so you don't need to fumble with the reluctor and the flywheel at the same time. But as long as you sight the slot over the key, you can just use a screwdriver/rod/dowel/pin punch and place it through one of the bolt holes as a temporary holder while you install the flywheel over it

[twistednoble]

Alright, now before I get too deep; is there a way to check if it is properly clocked without tearing the whole thing apart?

Somewhere in the last three moves in the past two years I lost my USB-B mini for the OFT so I'm waiting till amazon delivers a new one probably at 1700 tomorrow. That's why I haven't tried editing the cranking fuel tables to see if that gets the engine to take off yet.

Again, the root of my skepticism is tied to the engine really trying to run as it is currently. It'll do a half-assed run almost identical to when it's cold like I said earlier but won't keep going without the starter pushing it along. I would really expect the ECU to fire a trouble code if it was perceiving "out of time".

[twistednoble]

Ok, the reason the ECU isn't throwing misalignment codes is that the set conditions require:
Battery Voltage 11V or more
60 seconds of engine running
122F coolant temp or higher

And a couple other conditions that are not important at the given time.

I wish the FA20 had less convoluted timing marks that would allow for me to open the inspection cover over the crank tone ring at TDC and inspect the ring location.

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by twistednoble

Alright, now before I get too deep; is there a way to check if it is properly clocked without tearing the whole thing apart?

If I had a spare reluctor wheel I could throw it on my dead engine in my shop and possibly tell you what you should be seeing for timing marks at TDC but I don’t. My guess at this point is the reluctor wheel is sitting incorrectly on the dowel so the ECU can’t see it is in time. This may also explain your assembly issue if the flywheel and clutch isn’t sitting flat the pilot bearing and splines for the clutch disc may have been binding on the input shaft.

[twistednoble]

Ironically I think I'm correct or damn close. With the timing at my best guess for TDC on the crank I can see the flat spot on the tone wheel in the inspection window. I wish someone had this information but it's looking like I'm going to have to pull it apart and actually visually confirm it.

[twistednoble]

Ring was 45 degrees retarded; I was indeed damn close by luck.

[twistednoble]

Originally Posted by EndlessAzure

I have a nifty trick for you so you don't need to ask for a buddy when torquing the flywheel bolts. You just need a combo wrench


https://www.ft86club.com/forums/show...31&postcount=3

Thanks for the tip, worked like a charm.

I see why everyone thinks this is a relatively easy job. Now that I don't have to fight it apart I had the thing split and on the floor from completely assembled in 2 hours. Even including the oil drain time.

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by twistednoble

Thanks for the tip, worked like a charm.

I see why everyone thinks this is a relatively easy job. Now that I don't have to fight it apart I had the thing split and on the floor from completely assembled in 2 hours. Even including the oil drain time.

How much extra slop is in the tone wheel without the alignment pin?