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Forced Induction Turbo, Supercharger, Methanol, Nitrous


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Old 12-03-2015, 04:35 AM   #6721
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Originally Posted by Harro View Post
Howdy all, I've been trawling this thread for some ideas, although it is difficult sorting out the good from the bad.

I'm running an intercooled 210 - serial number S5-210-010313-0001. The number worries me a bit - I only had the blower installed about 9 months ago and I have a feeling I've been duped with an old stock model....any way I'm facing some issues that I am trying to reduce.

One is power - I'm only sitting at about 135 rwkw on 98 RON fuel - I would expect this kit to make around 150 rwkw at least.

The other one is heat - on a recent sprint session here in Queensland where the ambient air temp was 34 degrees C (94 F), track temp would've been at least 45 C (113 F) I would imagine.

I have two after market IAT's - One in the airbox for intake temps, one post screw/intercooler, the airbox temp was sitting pretty around 45 degrees C, after 4 laps, post screw temp hit a whopping 69 degrees C - 156 F.

I'm running an oil cooler, so oil was a happy 90 C (194 F), coolant never saw over 90 C - everything else was apples.

Headers have been ceramic coated, bonnet is a siebon CF Vented, both engine and intercooler coolant have been boosted with Motul Mo Cool and flow into the engine bay is good, I've ensured there is no high pressure behind the radiator.

There are a couple of idea's I've had - insulate the coolant line into the Laminova plate...avoid any of the heat from the oil cooler lines affecting the coolant, insulate the plastic intake tube into the blower to stop heat soak, remove the skid plate from the bottom of the engine bay to increase air flow past the headers to remove some of the heat travelling upwards. Larger water pump in the intercooler circuit to increase the flow....

I'm open to other suggestions, so fire away!

Consider yourself lucky! I've just had my 335 kit mapped on a very cool day (ambient temp couldn't have been more than 15 degrees C) and on a 15 seconds dyno pull we saw IAT's of 80 degrees C!


Seeing as e85 isn't available in the UK, my only real option is to install a meth/water injection kit which I'll be doing early next year


Air flow in and around the engine bay doesn't make a lot of difference from what I've read. It's purely the fact that the charger runs so hot as it's such a compact little unit
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Old 12-03-2015, 09:12 AM   #6722
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Smudge. I'd look into a bigger intercooler radiator and an uprated pump while you are at it too.
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Old 12-04-2015, 07:53 AM   #6723
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Do you know where I could source a post blower air temperature plate, and temp sensor, or are you the guy I already asked a while ago? or if you don't use the MAP plate to monitor temps, where are you doing it?

For your temperature question I would ask Mike at Moto-East. He's very familiar with the kit and the 335 kit as well. He's pretty busy however so don't expect instant turnaround with a response.
Sorry stocky - I'm not sure where you could source a temp plate from - I used a dual input temp sensor - one sensor in the airbox, the other drilled into the lower part of the blower casing. It's dead accurate, although not for the faint hearted, drilling into the casing.

Thanks for the heads up too mate, I'll hit up Mike and see what he thinks.

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Originally Posted by smudge View Post
Consider yourself lucky! I've just had my 335 kit mapped on a very cool day (ambient temp couldn't have been more than 15 degrees C) and on a 15 seconds dyno pull we saw IAT's of 80 degrees C!


Seeing as e85 isn't available in the UK, my only real option is to install a meth/water injection kit which I'll be doing early next year


Air flow in and around the engine bay doesn't make a lot of difference from what I've read. It's purely the fact that the charger runs so hot as it's such a compact little unit
Holy crap man, 80 C is massive - I'm not sure what damage may happen at that temp, but it can't be good. Water/ meth injection is one option I had considered but I need to research it a bit more. Considered putting a water jet that hits the intercooler radiator to try and get the temps down?
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Old 12-04-2015, 09:58 AM   #6724
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Smudge. I'd look into a bigger intercooler radiator and an uprated pump while you are at it too.

Bigger pump is something we've considered, not sure the bigger intercooler will do much but it can't hurt I suppose

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Holy crap man, 80 C is massive - I'm not sure what damage may happen at that temp, but it can't be good. Water/ meth injection is one option I had considered but I need to research it a bit more. Considered putting a water jet that hits the intercooler radiator to try and get the temps down?



Yeah it's not good, a meth injection kit will help ease the issue but the 335 kit will always run hot
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Old 12-04-2015, 10:06 AM   #6725
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Bigger pump wont help much if the radiator sturggles to cool it.

I'd say you need to connect up some thermocouples and measure the water temp at various points in the system to determine how to improve things. I mean, the laminova is too small, we all know this, so what car you do to improve that? More flow will mean you can pull more heat with the laminova, but you need to make sure the radiator and get rid of the additional heat as the water passes thought it. Every little helps.
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Old 12-04-2015, 11:00 AM   #6726
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Bigger pump wont help much if the radiator sturggles to cool it.

I'd say you need to connect up some thermocouples and measure the water temp at various points in the system to determine how to improve things. I mean, the laminova is too small, we all know this, so what car you do to improve that? More flow will mean you can pull more heat with the laminova, but you need to make sure the radiator and get rid of the additional heat as the water passes thought it. Every little helps.


Not that I've really looked, but I'm not aware of any larger air-water coolers out there? Some custom brackets would probably have to be made
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Old 12-04-2015, 11:05 AM   #6727
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Harro I see that you are in Brissy. Have you talked to Tony at coyote tuning? He has a ton of knowledge in these cars and I wouldn't trust anyone else in Brisbane as much as him.
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Old 12-04-2015, 11:30 AM   #6728
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quick question, is there supposed to be a washer or an O-ring where the dipstick is
confirm, no o-ring
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Old 12-05-2015, 01:37 AM   #6729
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Harro I see that you are in Brissy. Have you talked to Tony at coyote tuning? He has a ton of knowledge in these cars and I wouldn't trust anyone else in Brisbane as much as him.
Certainly have, Tony is a good mate of mine - and has given me the safe tune I run now. He's a busy fella though so as soon as I can I'll book some more dyno time with him and explore options. The Sprintex kit is a challenge to tune though and he has enough projects on without me adding to the list.

Cheers for the direction though mate.
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Old 12-09-2015, 03:35 PM   #6730
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Hello, all.

We have full SPS kits in stock, now, just in time for Christmas.

SPS 210 kit--$5,695 retail
SPS 335 kit--$6,290 retail

Ask your dealer about 10% off for the holidays.

(FYI--I have a couple of SPS blower sub-assemblies, but they need the inlet casting attached. PM me if you want one. No trade-ins.)
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Old 12-10-2015, 06:03 PM   #6731
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Guys, forgive me, didn't want to search through a bunch of pages. How much oil is supposed to be in the supercharger when changing?
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Old 12-10-2015, 06:51 PM   #6732
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Guys, forgive me, didn't want to search through a bunch of pages. How much oil is supposed to be in the supercharger when changing?
There's a notch on the dipstick to show you that, assuming a level surface.
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Old 12-11-2015, 06:25 PM   #6733
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What would be the best way to drain the coolant from an intercooled kit, in preparation for flush and coolant change?
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Old 12-11-2015, 08:13 PM   #6734
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Guys, forgive me, didn't want to search through a bunch of pages. How much oil is supposed to be in the supercharger when changing?
The 210 takes 157mL.
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