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Engine, Exhaust, Transmission Discuss the FR-S | 86 | BRZ engine, exhaust and drivetrain.


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Old 04-27-2020, 07:22 PM   #15
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i dont know if ur dead set on more power, but coilovers and a more race inspired seat will make you feel like you are on a fast and furious special mission.
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Old 04-27-2020, 07:26 PM   #16
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?

I'm not familiar.
https://www.aemelectronics.com/produ...soline-engines
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Old 04-27-2020, 08:20 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by imprezive View Post
?

I'm not familiar.
Water methanol injection.
Methanol is almost identical to E85, the water portion adds increased cooling vs ethanol and especially regular pump gas, which allows for continuous consistent power pull after pull with no heat soak issues. Methanol has similar “octane rating” to ethanol but you are obviously using a lower % since you are spraying in addition to your normal fuel instead of replacing your fuel entirely.
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Old 04-27-2020, 11:09 PM   #18
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i dont know if ur dead set on more power, but coilovers and a more race inspired seat will make you feel like you are on a fast and furious special mission.
Haha! I already feel like that every time I turn of the traction control!

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Water methanol injection.
Methanol is almost identical to E85, the water portion adds increased cooling vs ethanol and especially regular pump gas, which allows for continuous consistent power pull after pull with no heat soak issues. Methanol has similar “octane rating” to ethanol but you are obviously using a lower % since you are spraying in addition to your normal fuel instead of replacing your fuel entirely.
Meh...that sounds just as "dangerous" as FI.

I was also not too familiar with the Billet Power Blocks, those are intriguing for a few more HP. Most of the info I've found was done pre 2017. Is there any data on the effect when compared to the revised intake manifold on the 2017+?

I may end up just putting a few more dollars into aero, bushings, etc and go on a vacation. Idk if I'm ready to take the FI plunge. Decisions, decisions.
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Old 04-28-2020, 01:18 AM   #19
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Haha! I already feel like that every time I turn of the traction control!



Meh...that sounds just as "dangerous" as FI.

I was also not too familiar with the Billet Power Blocks, those are intriguing for a few more HP. Most of the info I've found was done pre 2017. Is there any data on the effect when compared to the revised intake manifold on the 2017+?

I may end up just putting a few more dollars into aero, bushings, etc and go on a vacation. Idk if I'm ready to take the FI plunge. Decisions, decisions.
It can be setup to be reliable, and safely make more power from higher effective octane allowing you to safely advance timing and also have cooler intake temps.

Not sure how much testing has been done on 17+ Aluminum manifold with the BPB. But the same principle and functionality still applies. You would need to research if the runner length changed from plastic manifold to aluminum manifold to really determine. But It works by increasing runner length to shift the power band down a little to meaten it up a bit. And with vvt tuning you can regain most of the top end so you effectively gain about 4whp for about 1400rpm of your peak power band 5400-6800rpm at the cost of about 2whp lost for the last 600rpm 6900-7500rpm. Still a total net gain since double the increase for double the time vs the decrease.

You already have the 2017 4.3 FD ratio so less beneficial than if you had a 4.1 FD ratio but switching to a 4.44 or 4.56 is a great NA option, makes the car a little faster to top of each gear making it feel a lot faster.

Weight reduction adds up and goes a long way. From a power to weight standpoint so not exactly the same as just increasing power. But going from say 2800lbs with 200whp to 2600lbs with 200whp would effectively be like giving you 15whp. Meaning 2800lbs + 215whp = same power to weight ratio as 2600lbs + 200whp. This effect is slightly enhanced when it is rotational mass IE lightweight wheels or willwood 4 pot bbk.
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Old 04-28-2020, 01:31 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by 86TOYO2k17 View Post
Not sure how much testing has been done on 17+ Aluminum manifold with the BPB. But the same principle and functionality still applies. You would need to research if the runner length changed from plastic manifold to aluminum manifold to really determine. But It works by increasing runner length to shift the power band down a little to meaten it up a bit. And with vvt tuning you can regain most of the top end so you effectively gain about 4whp for about 1400rpm of your peak power band 5400-6800rpm at the cost of about 2whp lost for the last 600rpm 6900-7500rpm. Still a total net gain since double the increase for double the time vs the decrease.

You already have the 2017 4.3 FD ratio so less beneficial than if you had a 4.1 FD ratio but switching to a 4.44 or 4.56 is a great NA option, makes the car a little faster to top of each gear making it feel a lot faster.

Weight reduction adds up and goes a long way. From a power to weight standpoint so not exactly the same as just increasing power. But going from say 2800lbs with 200whp to 2600lbs with 200whp would effectively be like giving you 15whp. Meaning 2800lbs + 215whp = same power to weight ratio as 2600lbs + 200whp. This effect is slightly enhanced when it is rotational mass IE lightweight wheels or willwood 4 pot bbk.
Thanks for the replies.

I'm going to keep looking into the BPB.

I do a lot of secluded highway driving at 5am, so I'm often cruising at 85mph. Can't go any shorter on the gearing.

I've already done a lighter battery, lighter wheels, lighter header, lighter spoiler. I'd like to keep some of the DD comforts, so there isn't a ton more to gain without going pretty extreme. The willwood brake kit would save weight vs the PP, but isn't cheap and hard to justify when I already have brembos.
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Old 04-28-2020, 08:11 AM   #21
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Old 04-28-2020, 10:56 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by imprezive View Post
Thanks for the replies.

I'm going to keep looking into the BPB.

I do a lot of secluded highway driving at 5am, so I'm often cruising at 85mph. Can't go any shorter on the gearing.

I've already done a lighter battery, lighter wheels, lighter header, lighter spoiler. I'd like to keep some of the DD comforts, so there isn't a ton more to gain without going pretty extreme. The willwood brake kit would save weight vs the PP, but isn't cheap and hard to justify when I already have brembos.
I was skeptical about the BPB, but most people liked it for DD. Only drawback was at the high end which I spend little time at. So I tried them and I have to say they work. Car just feels better through the mid range. This is butt dyno so take it for what it is worth. I am also stage 2 uel catless header with high flow cat in the front pipe. Also panel filter and Perrin silicone intake. OFT tune. Mine is a 2016 so don’t know about 2017. Only thing left to do for me really is a protune, as I am staying NA.

I would love to try one of those electric turbos, but not going there.
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Old 04-28-2020, 11:19 AM   #23
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I was skeptical about the BPB, but most people liked it for DD. Only drawback was at the high end which I spend little time at. So I tried them and I have to say they work. Car just feels better through the mid range. This is butt dyno so take it for what it is worth. I am also stage 2 uel catless header with high flow cat in the front pipe. Also panel filter and Perrin silicone intake. OFT tune. Mine is a 2016 so don’t know about 2017. Only thing left to do for me really is a protune, as I am staying NA.
Sounds like were about the same place with our cars/mods. I may try them out before pulling the trigger on FI. Thanks!
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Old 04-28-2020, 11:23 AM   #24
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Sounds like were about the same place with our cars/mods. I may try them out before pulling the trigger on FI. Thanks!
It's a waste of money. You'll regret doing it.

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Old 04-28-2020, 11:25 AM   #25
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It's a waste of money. You'll regret doing it
Care to add any facts/context to your strong statement?
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Old 04-28-2020, 11:41 AM   #26
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Sounds like were about the same place with our cars/mods. I may try them out before pulling the trigger on FI. Thanks!
As long as you understand what they do then I don't see why you shouldn't try them. For me they would never work and you will want a re-tune for the blocks. For FI, they would probably be useless but there is a used market for them.

Pet peeve of mine, but wtf does stage 2 even mean? It's like it implies there is a standard that nobody follows. Who decided what stage 2 is? Is my stage 2 the same as your stage 2? Do you have to have a stage 2 clutch if you are modded to stage 2?
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Old 04-28-2020, 11:52 AM   #27
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As long as you understand what they do then I don't see why you shouldn't try them. For me they would never work and you will want a re-tune for the blocks. For FI, they would probably be useless but there is a used market for them.

Pet peeve of mine, but wtf does stage 2 even mean? It's like it implies there is a standard that nobody follows. Who decided what stage 2 is? Is my stage 2 the same as your stage 2? Do you have to have a stage 2 clutch if you are modded to stage 2?
I think the stages were designed by companies to make purchasing easier for marketing to customers. Mostly in the Subaru community, some stages do have merit, but they have and will always be a simplification of the intention behind the product.

It can be dangerous, but honestly if someone is buying things without consulting others, they will learn that a "stage 2 clutch" from one company does not mean it is in any way comparable to another's. When their stage 2 eBay clutch slips and their stage 2 Exedy clutch does not, they'll learn to look for the torque rating and ignore the stage completely. The arbitrary staging behind a group of modifications will always be impossible to quantify unless an entire platform and its enthusiasts adhere to it.

I'm sure you know this, but it also frustrates me and I had to find a productive way of venting.
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Old 04-28-2020, 11:54 AM   #28
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It's a waste of money. You'll regret doing it.

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