Harrop TVS86 Owners Thread

[Irace86.2.0]

For Neil @The Racers Line

Any CARB updates?

[Trefoil]

Ran into a problem with my Harrop SC '13. Whenever I am stopping with the clutch in and in neutral, the engine dies. Recently rerouted some vacuum lines back to stock configuration on the car and had to take off the airbox (with maf) and disconnect the wiring loom extension that reaches to the maf, throttle body, IAT, and MAP.


Any suggestions? Is it as easy as cleaning the MAF or is this a larger issue like a vacuum leak from a hose that I missed?



The engine power is fine, but runs rich. If I can keep the throttle in using toe-heel, i can keep the engine running by keeping the rpm above 1.4k.

[Yoshoobaroo]

Originally Posted by Trefoil

Ran into a problem with my Harrop SC '13. Whenever I am stopping with the clutch in and in neutral, the engine dies. Recently rerouted some vacuum lines back to stock configuration on the car and had to take off the airbox (with maf) and disconnect the wiring loom extension that reaches to the maf, throttle body, IAT, and MAP.


Any suggestions? Is it as easy as cleaning the MAF or is this a larger issue like a vacuum leak from a hose that I missed?



The engine power is fine, but runs rich. If I can keep the throttle in using toe-heel, i can keep the engine running by keeping the rpm above 1.4k.

Did you plug the bypass valve vacuum line back in?

[gtengr]

Originally Posted by Yoshoobaroo

It's definitely significant, I wanted to know if the math translated to reality.

FWIW, BMW used a different front spring for the E46 M3 CSL depending on whether the AC delete was spec'd.

Originally Posted by Irace86.2.0

The unruly part isn't it sliding all over the road, just to be clear, although it really isn't hard to make that happen in 1st or 2nd; it is just the annoyance of having the traction control coming on all the time I seriously get on the accelerator.

Beyond tires, a good damper and stiffer bushings might help.

[Yoshoobaroo]

Originally Posted by gtengr

FWIW, BMW used a different front spring for the E46 M3 CSL depending on whether the AC delete was spec'd

Yup, BMW does that all the time. They spec different springs for heavy option packages, 4 door vs coupe vs wagon vs convertible, AWD vs. RWD, etc.

[johan]

Originally Posted by Yoshoobaroo

Making it stiffer will just make it even harder to put power down though. IMO if you're struggling to put power down now, keep it soft and keep the traction brackets, get stickier tires.

You're absolutely right. My reference to too soft vs too hard was in relation to the fact that I previously had a my15 FR-S, and that suspension was perfection to me. I always felt the '17 lost some precision in comparison.

[Yoshoobaroo]

Originally Posted by johan

You're absolutely right. My reference to too soft vs too hard was in relation to the fact that I previously had a my15 FR-S, and that suspension was perfection to me. I always felt the '17 lost some precision in comparison.

Interesting! I went from the original springs on my 13 BRZ to a set of 2017 springs and the car feels more planted! Different driving styles I guess!

[Trefoil]

Originally Posted by Yoshoobaroo

Did you plug the bypass valve vacuum line back in?

I dont think I ever unplugged it but I'll check when I pull the alternator out this afternoon. Before putting in the AC compresser all vacuum lines on that side were plugged in correctly.

There's power under acceleration now. I receive no cell codes after the car stalls/dies.

[johan]

Originally Posted by Yoshoobaroo

Interesting! I went from the original springs on my 13 BRZ to a set of 2017 springs and the car feels more planted! Different driving styles I guess!

Well, Toyota/Subaru spec'd different springs/dampers across 13/15/17. So that's not an a/b comparison. Also if you put the 17 springs on 13 dampers, that's a mismatch that would give a completely different experience as well.

[Yoshoobaroo]

Originally Posted by johan

Well, Toyota/Subaru spec'd different springs/dampers across 13/15/17. So that's not an a/b comparison. Also if you put the 17 springs on 13 dampers, that's a mismatch that would give a completely different experience as well.

Nah 17 dampers too.

[Trefoil]

Update: Messed with my brake booster line layout which I've suspected of having a crack and noticed while the power was on, the throttle body was humming/buzzing. Unclipped it and all other sensors, checked the connectors then reattached them. After quickly clearing the codes, the vehicle started up and idled for a few minutes while I was logging. Made it a good portion of the way home to a gas station where I refilled (e70) and then all of my problems started over again with the clutch-in stalling.

After a little ways down the road, I noticed if I eased into a stop and was gentle on the clutch disengagement, then the problem went away. Kept logging the entire time.

What the heck?

[Irace86.2.0]

Originally Posted by Trefoil

Update: Messed with my brake booster line layout which I've suspected of having a crack and noticed while the power was on, the throttle body was humming/buzzing. Unclipped it and all other sensors, checked the connectors then reattached them. After quickly clearing the codes, the vehicle started up and idled for a few minutes while I was logging. Made it a good portion of the way home to a gas station where I refilled (e70) and then all of my problems started over again with the clutch-in stalling.

After a little ways down the road, I noticed if I eased into a stop and was gentle on the clutch disengagement, then the problem went away. Kept logging the entire time.

What the heck?

Clutch in or clutch out in neutral makes a difference?

[johan]

Originally Posted by Trefoil

Update: Messed with my brake booster line layout which I've suspected of having a crack and noticed while the power was on, the throttle body was humming/buzzing. Unclipped it and all other sensors, checked the connectors then reattached them. After quickly clearing the codes, the vehicle started up and idled for a few minutes while I was logging. Made it a good portion of the way home to a gas station where I refilled (e70) and then all of my problems started over again with the clutch-in stalling.

After a little ways down the road, I noticed if I eased into a stop and was gentle on the clutch disengagement, then the problem went away. Kept logging the entire time.

What the heck?

Throttle body always buzzes. Completely normal. You just can't hear it over the engine when it's running.

[Trefoil]

New update:

The old vacuum lines were fine even after two years of hot weather driving conditions. Rerouting the front vent hose into the correct position has helped with cells.

A new ACT HDSS went in and the the old FX400 had totally lost all puck material and was down to just the steel backing! I really recommend shopping with CSG as they both have an amazing price on it while supporting the forums, or to support your local shop.

As I'm getting older, working from a garage alone has lost its appeal, since I cant bench press like i used to with a transmission on my chest and it's darn near impossible to work without a lot of investment into more tools. I asked a local subaru mechanic to do the work. After a rather quick install (~2.5 hrs) on his lift, the mechanic noticed an exhaust leak by the header or front overpipe... Which he mentioned could cause the sudden stalling issues at stop lights. Does that make sense?