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Tracking / Autocross / HPDE / Drifting What these cars were built for! |
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#1 |
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Duel Purpose uild recommendations
Hi Everyone,
I have a 2017 BRZ with the Brembo performance package and looking for some advice on what you all would recommend on upgrading. Currently I daily drive my car ~1000miles/month and plan to track it 4-6 times/year. My goals are to have a bit more fun daily driver and not go too crazy with the mods to ruin the reliability/comfort when not on the track. Currently I’ve upgraded all of the oils/fluids and have stickier tires. I’m thinking I would upgrade the wheels and suspension first. Then eventually get the jackson racing supercharger + oil cooler. My budget is flexible, but was thinking of something in the ballpark of 10-15k. Thanks! |
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#2 |
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Keep it simple...
Wheels/tires (17x9 245) track pads, brake fluid, coilovers w/ camber plates (higher end like MCS), adj. rear LCA’s, good alignment (-3,-2 camber) oil cooler, header (higher end like Ace) and a tune. A nice set of higher end coilovers will give you a comfortable ride when you turn down the damping and be excellent on track. I would skip the supercharger...the car is pretty fun with just a tune and header and if you need a bit more you can get to 200whp+ with E85. |
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#3 |
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Upgrade brake pads/fluid, get the oil cooler sooner than later, and some alignment parts. Camber bolts, and maybe LCAs in the rear, is a good place to start.
Go do the track days and then figure out what will work best for you. Nobody on the internet will be able to give you better input than the actual feeling of your car on track. Otherwise, if you're just looking to get the mods because you want them sooner than later for the sake of it, @skylinekin's recommendations above are good.
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#4 | |
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Quote:
Sounds like I should get the Jackson racing duel oil cooler as I was seeing temps up to 270 at the track. Unfortunately I live in CA and I don't think the Ace headers are CARB legal, that's why I was thinking of the super charger, but upgrading the motor was more of a in the future mod I'd do. |
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#5 |
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http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25485
Suspension should match tires which should match driver experience/desired track experience. If you set expectations appropriately you can have a fun track ready car for <$2k, if you set expectations unrealistically you can spend $15k and be deeply disappointed in what you've done. Expensive =/= good |
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#6 | |
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You need to make the car sustainable first, not faster. Given how much you plan on tracking, start with a legit track pad, not a "mixed duty" or entry level pad. Too much pad is better than not enough. Try Winmax W6 front/rear with Project Mu G-Four as a starting point. PM to order. |
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Thanks everyone for the advice. I think I'll start out with Mike's suggestion and go from there.
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#9 | |
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Spend all that money on a beastronix box to kill the nannies, tires, pads, fluids, and track time. The skills you gain will make the daily drive more fun without chasing the Unicorn - the daily driver / track compromise (it's called a Cayman gt4 btw) ![]() Especially for 4 hpde days a year...learn to drive it. the factory car is plenty of fun to hustle bone stock with better tires and the nannies off for a majority of people. And it's easier to ruin the superb balance and chassis feedback with mismatched suspension parts thrown at the car without targeting a specific handling result in mind.... Take this advice with a grain of salt- it's from an unknown dude on the internet who is a serial tinkering, tire slaying track junkie trying to get his car to 2700 lbs with driver and a half tank of fuel ![]() |
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#10 | |
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#11 | |
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![]() ![]() My BRZ is at 2,832 and it is completely gutted. No A/C but I am a big burger (230 lbs with gear) and I have a full cage. Lightweight battery and only race driver seat on it, no passenger seat. I did leave the heater core in there as I like it to clear the windshield and warm me up on those chilly mornings. Still have the electric windows but the door cards are out. No interior left in the car other than the gutted and trimmed to the cage dash to hold gauges and the cluster. Not having the dash really looks like shit. I am completely happy with it. It is 243 lbs lighter than when it was new with a level of stiffness with this cage completely overcomes the weight differential to what it could be if you just go and mega strict diet. To the original poster just up your brake fluid and pads and add the JR oil cooler. I also advice to use a heavier weight of oil but how heavy depends on what you do with the car and where you live. Perhaps 0-40W could be a good compromise. So everyone knows beastronix is not the only computer intrusion killer. I personally prefer the MIG-86 as it is a plug in option and it works excellent by killing everything but ABS. Quote:
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#12 |
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Better hit the gym brother! *** ducks and runs to eat a donut to maintain my manly figure***
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#13 | |
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![]() Not all of us can look as svelte in a fire suit as you...or carry that much speed through big bend...and If I can get down to 125 this season I'll hit that 2700 lb goal! Notice I didn't say anything about actually being fast- Most of the tire slaying mentioned in my above post is overdriving the car in panic trying to keep Jonesy from growing bigger in the rearview! ![]() |
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#14 | |
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![]() Although you later got more on top of it =) and actually gave me a perfect pass on what turned out to be the fastest lap of the weekend.
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