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Old 05-25-2021, 10:00 PM   #239
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I guess I will add mine even though I am going to puling it off the car PM if your interested

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Damn this sounds soooo good
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There's a point at 7,000 RPM... where everything fades. The machine becomes weightless. Just disappears. And all that's left is a body moving through space and time. 7,000 RPM. That's where you meet it. You feel it coming. It creeps up on you, close in your ear. Asks you a question. The only question that matters. Who are you?
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Old 05-25-2021, 10:33 PM   #240
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Damn this sounds soooo good
Leave this as well. I do miss the sound



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Old 05-25-2021, 10:46 PM   #241
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Leave this as well. I do miss the sound



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Sooo good! How did the 245s hold the power? NA my car felt heavy in first when just street driving. Iím curious how boost changes that.
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There's a point at 7,000 RPM... where everything fades. The machine becomes weightless. Just disappears. And all that's left is a body moving through space and time. 7,000 RPM. That's where you meet it. You feel it coming. It creeps up on you, close in your ear. Asks you a question. The only question that matters. Who are you?
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Old 05-25-2021, 10:50 PM   #242
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Sooo good! How did the 245s hold the power? NA my car felt heavy in first when just street driving. Iím curious how boost changes that.
Street was just fine. Track was different and autocross as well. Had to be careful not to get on throttle to soon or it wanted to kick the backend out. Boosted on the street was so much fun due to bell curve TQ output.

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Old 06-09-2021, 01:06 PM   #243
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Here is the dyno from my Edelbrock SC I just had installed. I noticed my toque comes on around 3k and hits 220ft/lbs. Is that too much for stock rods? I see most people say to stay around 200ft/lbs, from what I’ve been reading historically (all hearsay, of course).

Should I ask my tuner to lower the torque, if possible? I drive pretty conservatively; no track or auto-x
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There's a point at 7,000 RPM... where everything fades. The machine becomes weightless. Just disappears. And all that's left is a body moving through space and time. 7,000 RPM. That's where you meet it. You feel it coming. It creeps up on you, close in your ear. Asks you a question. The only question that matters. Who are you?
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Old 06-09-2021, 01:49 PM   #244
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That Dyno plot is perfect. Flat and ramps in nicely. Nothing is 100% safe but you are in the safer region.

Couple things. With boost you need to change your driving habits a bit. Don't floor it while lugging the engine. Also warmup is important now. Stay out of boost till oil temps get to a safe area. Other than this enjoy and have fun. For a while keep an eye on afr while driving. Highly recommend a p3 vent gauge that plugs into obd2 port.

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JDL 4-2-1 EL, MXP-SP, Tuned by Zach@CSG on e85
RR Wilwood Front/Rear Sport BBK, Motul 600 Fluid
ARC-8 17x9 Satin Black ET35 SX2 GTs 245/40/17
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Old 06-09-2021, 01:58 PM   #245
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That Dyno plot is perfect. Flat and ramps in nicely. Nothing is 100% safe but you are in the safer region.

Couple things. With boost you need to change your driving habits a bit. Don't floor it while lugging the engine. Also warmup is important now. Stay out of boost till oil temps get to a safe area. Other than this enjoy and have fun. For a while keep an eye on afr while driving. Highly recommend a p3 vent gauge that plugs into obd2 port.

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Awesome advice - thank you! Currently I wait about two minutes after cold start RPMs drop to start driving and do not go-over 1/2 throttle or 4k rpm before oil hits at least 180*.

When driving, I roll onto the throttle and do not go-over half throttle until at least 3k RPM (never over half throttle in 6th; rarely in 5th). My shift are also 6k max since this when I hit peak HP, and only on occasional pulls.

Thanks for the tip about the p3 vent -- I have been using my bluetooth ecutek device plugged into the OBII and have it on in my cell cradle.
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There's a point at 7,000 RPM... where everything fades. The machine becomes weightless. Just disappears. And all that's left is a body moving through space and time. 7,000 RPM. That's where you meet it. You feel it coming. It creeps up on you, close in your ear. Asks you a question. The only question that matters. Who are you?
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Old 06-09-2021, 04:57 PM   #246
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Originally Posted by BrahmaBull1990 View Post
Awesome advice - thank you! Currently I wait about two minutes after cold start RPMs drop to start driving and do not go-over 1/2 throttle or 4k rpm before oil hits at least 180*.

When driving, I roll onto the throttle and do not go-over half throttle until at least 3k RPM (never over half throttle in 6th; rarely in 5th). My shift are also 6k max since this when I hit peak HP, and only on occasional pulls.

Thanks for the tip about the p3 vent -- I have been using my bluetooth ecutek device plugged into the OBII and have it on in my cell cradle.
idling too long can actually cause more harm then good. You have less oil pressure, typically a richer less clean burn with more fuel contamination into the oil, and you extend the total overall warmup time. waiting about 30seconds or just after initial higher rpm idle drop which of the two takes longer is plenty, perhaps in freezing temps another 20-30seconds but otherwise no point.

You should be shifting just before limiter for maximum acceleration, 6k is far from when you should be shifting. Peak hp is meaningless. You shift when mechanical torque at the wheel in the current gear is less than mechanical torque at the wheel would be in the next gear you would be shifting to, typically this rpm however is beyond even the limiter so we are limited to the rpm of the limiter before shifting.
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Old 06-09-2021, 05:41 PM   #247
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idling too long can actually cause more harm then good. You have less oil pressure, typically a richer less clean burn with more fuel contamination into the oil, and you extend the total overall warmup time. waiting about 30seconds or just after initial higher rpm idle drop which of the two takes longer is plenty, perhaps in freezing temps another 20-30seconds but otherwise no point.

You should be shifting just before limiter for maximum acceleration, 6k is far from when you should be shifting. Peak hp is meaningless. You shift when mechanical torque at the wheel in the current gear is less than mechanical torque at the wheel would be in the next gear you would be shifting to, typically this rpm however is beyond even the limiter so we are limited to the rpm of the limiter before shifting.
Thanks for the reply. Sorry I am confused. You're saying I should be shifting at around 7k RPM (assuming redline is around 7.2kRPM)? My torque and HP are highest right at 6k RPM; if this is the max in the current gear, how could the torque be higher in the next when I am upshifting?
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There's a point at 7,000 RPM... where everything fades. The machine becomes weightless. Just disappears. And all that's left is a body moving through space and time. 7,000 RPM. That's where you meet it. You feel it coming. It creeps up on you, close in your ear. Asks you a question. The only question that matters. Who are you?
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Old 06-09-2021, 05:54 PM   #248
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Thanks for the reply. Sorry I am confused. You're saying I should be shifting at around 7k RPM (assuming redline is around 7.2kRPM)? My torque and HP are highest right at 6k RPM; if this is the max in the current gear, how could the torque be higher in the next when I am upshifting?
RPMs fall when shifting into next gear. This if you shift early you are father from the sweet spot for your torque and HP curve.

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JDL 4-2-1 EL, MXP-SP, Tuned by Zach@CSG on e85
RR Wilwood Front/Rear Sport BBK, Motul 600 Fluid
ARC-8 17x9 Satin Black ET35 SX2 GTs 245/40/17
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Old 06-09-2021, 05:56 PM   #249
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RPMs fall when shifting into next gear. This if you shift early you are father from the sweet spot for your torque and HP curve.

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Ahhh understood. So wringing it out to 7k vs 6k isnít adding more wear? Keep in mind this during a pull. City driving Iím a piker around 4.5k
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There's a point at 7,000 RPM... where everything fades. The machine becomes weightless. Just disappears. And all that's left is a body moving through space and time. 7,000 RPM. That's where you meet it. You feel it coming. It creeps up on you, close in your ear. Asks you a question. The only question that matters. Who are you?
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Old 06-09-2021, 06:55 PM   #250
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Ahhh understood. So wringing it out to 7k vs 6k isnít adding more wear? Keep in mind this during a pull. City driving Iím a piker around 4.5k
Nope not really. FI is adding accelerated wear vs NA at any level but you knew that.

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Old 06-09-2021, 07:00 PM   #251
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These engines always feel kind of sketchy to me past 6500 rpm. I'm sure it's fine but that's about where i push mine. Just sounds so strained after that.
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Old 06-09-2021, 07:01 PM   #252
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Thanks for the reply. Sorry I am confused. You're saying I should be shifting at around 7k RPM (assuming redline is around 7.2kRPM)? My torque and HP are highest right at 6k RPM; if this is the max in the current gear, how could the torque be higher in the next when I am upshifting?
Stock limiter is 7,400 most tuners raise to 7,500.
Shift 50rpm before limiter. Shift at the last possible moment to still not hit limiter/fuel cut but rev as high as possible.

I specified mechanical torque to the wheel.
Not torque or hp on a dyno graph.

Mechanical torque is calculated after all gear ratio, wheel size etcÖ are factored in.

You want to shift gears at the RPM when the current gear you are in has LESS mechanical torque at the wheel than the next gear will have at the RPM it will land in after shifting.

On most cars the mechanical torque to the wheel is always higher in the numerically lower gear all the way to rev limiter. Youíd need to make like 400ft lbs at 5k and 200ft lbs at 6,500rpm to benefit from short shifting. A 20-30% drop in torque is more than made up for by torque multiplication through numerically higher gearing.
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