Plastic Modeling

[Spuds]

Originally Posted by Kaotic Lazagna

I'll try it on a plastic spoon maybe???

Yeah that should work. Or the frames all your pieces come attached to (I forget what it's actually called)

[bcj]

Sprue you!

Yeah, that's the ticket.

[Kaotic Lazagna]

Originally Posted by Spuds

Yeah that should work. Or the frames all your pieces come attached to (I forget what it's actually called)

Originally Posted by bcj

Sprue you!

Yeah, that's the ticket.

[StraightOuttaCanadaEh]

Originally Posted by Kaotic Lazagna

Well now, I don't have a portable heater (not going to buy one just for car models ). I paint in my garage, so I'm assuming it's cold (I like the cold, so I don't usually find the temperature "cold").

I wonder if I can spray a layer, then bring everything back inside the house immediately after. Then bring everything out for the next layer, etc.

it'll smell and unless you can keep it covered up, you'll also get a load of dust on it

[Kaotic Lazagna]

Originally Posted by StraightOuttaCanadaEh

it'll smell and unless you can keep it covered up, you'll also get a load of dust on it

With the other one I did, I brought the painted parts into the house since I thought there would be higher chances of dust in the garage. Haha. It did smell a little.

[Kaotic Lazagna]

Here we go. One coat of gray primer on. This lays thicker than the pink one I used on the R32. Guessing another quick coat would be enough before laying the color coat.

[Kaotic Lazagna]

First layer of the color. Not a fan of Testors/Model Master spray paints. Might be the nozzle, but it sprays in a splatter kind of pattern. Not uniform and nice like the Tamiya spray cans. The farther I spray the can, the more splatters. So I tried a little closer with the bottom of the chassis, paint clumps together and becomes super thick.

[Ultramaroon]

Can get close as long as you also speed up your swing across the work piece. You have to really speed up. Takes practice to time pressing the valve.


There are limits just like there are some really shitty spray nozzles

[Kaotic Lazagna]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

Can get close as long as you also speed up your swing across the work piece. You have to really speed up. Takes practice to time pressing the valve.


There are limits just like there are some really shitty spray nozzles

I think I read online that that's what people complain about Testor's spray cans; that they use crappy nozzles which leads to the spraying issue that I had. I can also see this will have a lot more orange peel than the Tamiya. I still have the pearl clear coat to spray, but I'll wait a week to do that since I also read that Testor paint takes foooreeeeeeever to cure. Sucks that Tamiya doesn't do pearl purple. Well, at least now I know to avoid Testor. lol. I guess that's also why there were so many Testor cans left at the hobby shop I went to, and barely had any Tamiya cans.

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by Kaotic Lazagna

I guess that's also why there were so many Testor cans left at the hobby shop I went to, and barely had any Tamiya cans.

I've been threatening forever to get myself a little airbrush kit for similar work. No idea what that would mean for paint options but it seems like it could be a good fit for the job.


I'm more of a tool hound than I am a modeler but I've had excellent results mixing my own paint.

[Kaotic Lazagna]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

I've been threatening forever to get myself a little airbrush kit for similar work. No idea what that would mean for paint options but it seems like it could be a good fit for the job.


I'm more of a tool hound than I am a modeler but I've had excellent results mixing my own paint.

I do know your color options blow up if you get an airbrush. I just don't want to deal with mixing thinners, and then cleaning up the airbrush and paint holder.



So I just noticed that the Testors color I used is an enamel. I'm pretty sure the Tamiya pearl clear I plan on using is a lacquer. Does anyone know if this will be an issue?




Edit: googled it, and found mix reviews. Some people did say they just let the enamel dry for at least a week or two, and then used Tamiya clear on it by using very light coats. Looks like the R33 body won't be done for a long time since I think I have to spray another coat of the pearl grape since it doesn't adhere to edges very well (another reason why I won't ever buy Testors/Model Master again).


Edit #2: didn't want to waste my effort, plus the Tamiya pearl clear, so I went ahead and ordered a can of Model Master enamel gloss top coat. I'll just save the pearl clear for another model. Now I'm debating on if I should try spraying on another layer of the pearl grape since the edges of panels are much lighter since it doesn't seem like this paint adheres well to edges.

[soundman98]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

I've been threatening forever to get myself a little airbrush kit for similar work. No idea what that would mean for paint options but it seems like it could be a good fit for the job.


I'm more of a tool hound than I am a modeler but I've had excellent results mixing my own paint.

the worst part of airbrushing is cleanup. it'll take 30 minutes to mix, fill, and spray a project the size of that model car, and 4 hours to clean everything up nice enough so you can use the gun again..

it's why harbor freight sells $20 HVLP auto spray guns. guy's will spray their real car and toss the gun in the end. cheaper and easier.

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by soundman98

the worst part of airbrushing is cleanup. it'll take 30 minutes to mix, fill, and spray a project the size of that model car, and 4 hours to clean everything up nice enough so you can use the gun again..

it's why harbor freight sells $20 HVLP auto spray guns. guy's will spray their real car and toss the gun in the end. cheaper and easier.

I first taught myself how to paint & finish back in '91. Had a prized guitar neck and built a custom axe around it. Took three coats of tinted clear to match the body to the neck and then another fifteen coats of clear on top of that. I used fills from my scuba tank because I lived in an apartment complex at the time. No power in the garages.

Although I still have the original gun and now have all the supporting tools, I've only used rattle cans since then because lazy. Even the best nozzles are shit compared to the real deal.

[Kaotic Lazagna]

Since I can't touch the R33 due to the enamel paint still not being cured, I decided to start working on the R34. Sanded down the mold lines, and cut out the hood (much easier than the R33's hood). I think it's expected to rain starting tomorrow, so can't really do anything else to the R34. I still gotta finish scribing the panel lines though.