PROcede ESC User Software!

[Shiv@Openflash]

Hi guys,
The user software for the PROcede ESC controller is now available for download. This software allow you to change ESC activation maps or to modify them yourself. We don't recommend modifying them unless you know what you are doing. But you can certainly try uploading the different off-the-shelf (OTS) ESC maps we have available. I'll outline the whole process here. It's really important that you follow these directions exactly

1) Download and extract (they are compressed when you download them) all three (3) files here: http://openflashtablet.com/Automotiv...ads/index.html

2) Open the USB driver folder and read the Read Me file carefully. Please follow those instructions exactly.

3) If you followed the Read Me file, you should be connected to your Procede. You can confirm this by looking at the bottom of the Procede Programmer screen. It should say "Procede connected" instead of "Procede Offline". If it does not say connected, re-check all your steps. And make sure that ignition is on the ON position. The ESC arming switch can be in the OFF position for now.

4) Select File, then Open and select either one of the two Off-the-shelf ESC maps (ESC GT86 Sport Throttle or ESC GT86 Standard Throttle) you downloaded in Step 1. Once you select and click on OK, you should see it count from 0 to 100%. Confirm that it reaches 100% and finishes. If it doesn't finish or gets stuck partial way, go to COMMS, and go offline and then online again. And then try to upload the map again. If you are unsure which map to select, try the Sport Throttle map first. It's my personal favorite. But feel free to test both in time.

5) Once the map is loaded, you will see something colorful like this:


The X axis represents engine speed (RPM). And the Y axis represents throttle blade angle.

6) Go ahead and start your engine. When you start your engine, you should see a live RPM reading. If not, you didn't tap into the Crank signal wire correctly When you touch the throttle, the active yellow cell should move left to right. If not, you didn't tap into the Throttle sensor wire correctly

7) Assuming you are seeing a valid RPM and Throttle signal, you can now turn on the ESC arming switch. If you listen carefully with the hood open, you will hear a series of beeps. While you hear the beeps, the Phantom controller is initializing after being turned ON. This takes about 8 seconds. During this time, keep throttle movement to under 25% or else the system won't initialize properly. After that, you should be ready to drive!

ADDENDUM:
Here is an old video showing how to upload new Procede maps. Shown is an old version of the software specific for BMW use. So cosmetics are different but everything else the same.

[dpgfunk]

Cool

[swarb]

Hot

[l0aded]

Anyone try this on Windows 10? Only have one laptop =X

Any of the first batchers get it working yet?

Edit:
- Windows 10 does work.
- RPMs and load registered so looks like the taps are OK.
- Map is loaded.
- Need to check voltage on foot pedal switch at work tomorrow. Chances are the voltage is not going through.


Can someone confirm something for me? For Rev2 versions, the ESC should activate when the foot pedal aux cable is UNPLUGGED correct?

[Sojhinn]

Originally Posted by l0aded

Anyone try this on Windows 10? Only have one laptop =X

Any of the first batchers get it working yet?

Edit:
- Windows 10 does work.
- RPMs and load registered so looks like the taps are OK.
- Map is loaded.
- Need to check voltage on foot pedal switch at work tomorrow. Chances are the voltage is not going through.


Can someone confirm something for me? For Rev2 versions, the ESC should activate when the foot pedal aux cable is UNPLUGGED correct?

It's possible the female stereo plug may not be soldered to the correct point. You need the tip of the male end to register the voltage changes. Double check which part of the female end is soldered to.


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[l0aded]

Originally Posted by Sojhinn

It's possible the female stereo plug may not be soldered to the correct point. You need the tip of the male end to register the voltage changes. Double check which part of the female end is soldered to.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Your suspicion is most likely correct. I tried to measure the signal with a voltmeter for the inside of the female plug and the same ground as the PROcede. Couldn't get anywhere near 1V moving the thing around. Since the plug goes into 1 wire into 1 pin I'm assuming the wires are crossed so it should have measured something anywhere inside.

Update: Ripped the insulation before the female side and took the voltage. It read between 0-5V depending on load (and probably RPM). Looks like a simple fix: going to cut off the 2.5mm female jack which is likely not connected properly and solder on a new 3.5mm jack fusing all 3 wires together since there is only one signal. It SHOULD work after that. Early adopting is painful while rewarding.

[l0aded]

Update:

Soldered on a new female 3.5mm connector. Plugged it in. Now there's a new problem shown here:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/oppuuaa5a3...83346.mp4?dl=0

When I first turn on the car it looks fine. After giving it gas though this starts to happen and just continues to reset over and over (blank, 35, 28, blank, etc etc). Any idea what's going on?

When I plug in the foot pedal switch it still works fine.

[Sojhinn]

Originally Posted by l0aded

Update:

Soldered on a new female 3.5mm connector. Plugged it in. Now there's a new problem shown here:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/oppuuaa5a3...83346.mp4?dl=0

When I first turn on the car it looks fine. After giving it gas though this starts to happen and just continues to reset over and over (blank, 35, 28, blank, etc etc). Any idea what's going on?

When I plug in the foot pedal switch it still works fine.

Check your power tap. Did it cut the wire?


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[l0aded]

Originally Posted by Sojhinn

Check your power tap. Did it cut the wire?


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I'll try squeezing it a bit more and see.

edit: Yeah power is fine. I'll get a voltmeter tomorrow and check all the connections again. Can someone help me understand what's happening on the foot pedal aux cable? Right now the way it is hooked up all 3 wires are receiving the same 0-5V signal from the PROcede, is this how it is supposed to be? Is there no ground here?


update: Don't know if anyone is working on their install or has finished but for those still debugging and are at this stage do NOT solder the female side connections together. After speaking with Rob, only the GREY wire (tip of the TPS aux connector) should be receiving the 0-5V. This might explain why my controller was resetting itself. Now I need to resolder a new female connector with just the tip (Grey wire) connector in contact with the PROcede. Hopefully the PROcede has not been damaged by this.

[Sojhinn]

Originally Posted by l0aded

I'll try squeezing it a bit more and see.

edit: Yeah power is fine. I'll get a voltmeter tomorrow and check all the connections again. Can someone help me understand what's happening on the foot pedal aux cable? Right now the way it is hooked up all 3 wires are receiving the same 0-5V signal from the PROcede, is this how it is supposed to be? Is there no ground here?


update: Don't know if anyone is working on their install or has finished but for those still debugging and are at this stage do NOT solder the female side connections together. After speaking with Rob, only the GREY wire (tip of the TPS aux connector) should be receiving the 0-5V. This might explain why my controller was resetting itself. Now I need to resolder a new female connector with just the tip (Grey wire) connector in contact with the PROcede. Hopefully the PROcede has not been damaged by this.

Yeah I thought I said that... Maybe I wasn't clear?!? Is it all better?


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[l0aded]

Originally Posted by Sojhinn

Yeah I thought I said that... Maybe I wasn't clear?!? Is it all better?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sorry my mistake, I didn't read it clearly. I'm going to solder a new connection in a bit.

When I solder it, are the other two connections not connected to anything? As in just cut them off.

[Sojhinn]

Originally Posted by l0aded

Sorry my mistake, I didn't read it clearly. I'm going to solder a new connection in a bit.



When I solder it, are the other two connections not connected to anything? As in just cut them off.

When we were working on it at shivs we had to be careful about the soldering. Just double check that the wire you solder is for only the tip connection. (Voltage )


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[l0aded]

Originally Posted by Sojhinn

When we were working on it at shivs we had to be careful about the soldering. Just double check that the wire you solder is for only the tip connection. (Voltage )


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I will. Going to test the connections before going in. I'm still confused about what to do with the Ring and Shield connections.



If the tip goes to the PROcede, is it correct that the other 2 go to nothing and I should just cut them off on the female side going to the PROcede?

[Sojhinn]

Originally Posted by l0aded

I will. Going to test the connections before going in. I'm still confused about what to do with the Ring and Shield connections.







If the tip goes to the PROcede, is it correct that the other 2 go to nothing and I should just cut them off on the female side going to the PROcede?

Leave them there and don't do anything.


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