Should I first mod for power or handling?

[Ultramaroon]

Meanwhile, OP is MIA. I hope this doesn't end up being just another drive-by thread. There's good review of life experience here from young and old alike.

[Shawnio]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

Meanwhile, OP is MIA. I hope this doesn't end up being just another drive-by thread. There's good review of life experience here from young and old alike.

Sorry I’m on mobile and new to the forum and only just found out how to reply

[Shawnio]

Originally Posted by Ernest72

Do this.

Yeah definitely the advice I’m taking most to heart

[Shawnio]

Originally Posted by Jesse36m3

I will be straight up with you - $5k will not go far with a turbo build. I spent more than that on just supporting mods (clutch, aos, full exhaust, oil cooler, hood vents, gauges, etc.) There's a lot more to it than just buying the kit, and i guess you could argue you don't need any of that stuff, but it is strongly recommended. I'd also suggest you do the supporting mods first if you are fully commited - and you might want to add suspension work, wheels/tires, brake pads/fluid, etc.)



If the money is really burning a hole in your pocket, the first thing i would do is a set of lightweight wheels, tires, lowering springs, and a good alignment. Save the rest for maintenance.

Yeah I’m realizing quick a turbo will be well over my head. Still very appreciative for all the advice.

[soundman98]

Better than I was at that age. I told more than enough experienced people to go screw themselves, I knew better.

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by Shawnio

Yeah I’m realizing quick a turbo will be well over my head. Still very appreciative for all the advice.

Well done. It's loads of fun on its own.

[jflogerzi]

If you want to wake up the car best bang for your buck power wise is Gruppe-S UEL header, oft tablet and a custom tune from steve99 or wanye. Save the rest. But as others have said it's pretty good out of the box

Sent from my GM1915 using Tapatalk

[Decep]

As someone who did both, the FI is much more enjoyable at least on the street. The car handles pretty damn well stock tbh.

[rbfr.s]

I'll chime in as I'm a college student myself! I've had my FR-S for almost a year now and my build is almost complete (albeit the previous owner had a few pieces I planned on buying). Listen to the vets on this thread - FI is not the way to go since you're starting college and will need a reliable DD. Focus on building a car that YOU want within a budget you're comfortable with. Just because you were given the O.K to spend 5k on mods doesn't mean you need to spend 5k. Here's my 2 cents:

1. Used parts are everywhere. Plenty of people on this forum are reverting their cars back to stock or trading one mod for another. Find the deals that fit your "want" list - you can find things discounted at a great rate practically open box.

2. The best mods for DD are the most basic ones. Heed the advice above with: Tires, brake pads/rotors, new lights, fluids, etc.

3. This platform has one of the biggest aftermarket scenes. Having a goal of what you want your car to be will save lots of money and headaches in the future from unnecessary spending/improper mods.

4. Know when to take your car to a shop if you do decide to mod. This is different for everyone and I'll probably get some flak for it. There have been projects I thought I could handle on my own. I ended up creating a bigger problem that was double the cost I initially planned on.

I hope this helps and I know I reiterated some posts! Always ask around because there's information for everything on our platform.

[jflogerzi]

Originally Posted by Decep

As someone who did both, the FI is much more enjoyable at least on the street. The car handles pretty damn well stock tbh.

Not worth it and not reliable. This is terrible advice

Sent from my GM1915 using Tapatalk

[Decep]

He wasn't asking if it was reliable, he was asking what's a better way to blow 5k. IMO this car needs more power and torque far more than it needs better handling out of the box. In MY experience, i have a hard time getting close to the limits of even the stock suspension on the street, at least where i live. At least i can snap my head back and go when i downshift to 2nd or 3rd and get my jollies that way.

ps what happened to your sprintex? or am i misremembering.

[jflogerzi]

Originally Posted by Decep

He wasn't asking if it was reliable, he was asking what's a better way to blow 5k. IMO this car needs more power and torque far more than it needs better handling out of the box. In MY experience, i have a hard time getting close to the limits of even the stock suspension on the street, at least where i live. At least i can snap my head back and go when i downshift to 2nd or 3rd and get my jollies that way.

ps what happened to your sprintex? or am i misremembering.

Nothing is wrong. Just removed due to SMOG in CA and better reliability at the track. Sprintex kit is not the most efficient at the track due to heat soak.

[RToyo86]

Originally Posted by jflogerzi

If you want to wake up the car best bang for your buck power wise is Gruppe-S UEL header, oft tablet and a custom tune from steve99 or wanye. Save the rest. But as others have said it's pretty good out of the box

Sent from my GM1915 using Tapatalk

I agree with you there.
tomm.brz did my tune and it runs strong. A dialed tune ran stronger mid range on my setup vs canned tune.

Their header + OP combo is by far the cheapest on the market by a good margin while still maintaining good quality welds etc.
Absolute steal getting the header+OP for $770 CAD when Tomei is $900 without the OP.

[86TOYO2k17]

At stock power on a pure daily full suspension setup beyond springs and especially brakes are pointless unless they are worn and need replacing or you like the look of a super stanced car.

Header preferably catless or a high flow cat depending on smog
Decat the oem front pipe
Get a CBE that you like the sound of (no performance gain, but sound improves driver experience)
Flex fuel
Tune
Decent Tires
RCE yellow springs

When brakes get worn then replace with some decent slotted ones like stoptech shouldn’t be more then 400$ for 4 rotors and 4 sets of pads.