Brake rotor temperature right/left and front/rear comparison questions

[Racecomp Engineering]

Oh no he's banned.

Originally Posted by HappyMonkey

So it's looking like every initial decision I made was significantly suboptimal. Throwing money away is one way to learn...

From what I've been reading the Hawk High Performance Street Race pads are a little more street friendly than the Project Mu HC+ 800 ones. Leaning toward the Hawk until I swap out dedicated track pads.

For fluid I'm using ATE Typ200. No idea how I decided on it. Sounds like everyone uses Motul RBF600. I might as well join the club too.

Basically what you bought was a fine street maintenance replacement package. Really no improvement over stock, but they're not "bad" parts (drilled rotors don't do it for me though). I run some of the same parts on my street cars. Keep them as a back up or run them as your street set-up. In general I recommend a separate set of dedicated track pads...if nothing else it gives you a chance to inspect your car and braking system before a track day which everyone should be doing anyway. A separate set of track rotors makes life easier too.

Lots of good brake pad information and reviews on here. CSG has a lot of info and there's more in the track forum.

- Andrew

[churchx]

HappyMonkey: i'd strike out "significantly". It's not some race BBK kit for $10K . In few trackdays you'll burn more fuel & wear tires then what your purchase did cost. Yes, not much difference over stock .. but then again imho even stock brakes are relatively rather good on twins. You get spares, good enough. Stock rotors/pads may cost even more then some aftermarket offerings .
BTW, next thing i suggest to read a bit on alignment. At least that was what i felt that may benefit from changing after first track visits. But worth to go to track first to feel yourself if/what/how much improve.

[wparsons]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

Oh no he's banned.



Basically what you bought was a fine street maintenance replacement package. Really no improvement over stock, but they're not "bad" parts (drilled rotors don't do it for me though). I run some of the same parts on my street cars. Keep them as a back up or run them as your street set-up. In general I recommend a separate set of dedicated track pads...if nothing else it gives you a chance to inspect your car and braking system before a track day which everyone should be doing anyway. A separate set of track rotors makes life easier too.

Lots of good brake pad information and reviews on here. CSG has a lot of info and there's more in the track forum.

- Andrew

Just to add a little to that... if you're planning on swapping pads, but not rotors, be sure to get pads that are compatible with each other to minimize the amount of bedding needed between swaps.

[HappyMonkey]

Thanks for all the comments. I learned a lot more than I expected to when I posted the questions. Before I go back to stock rotors here's a goodbye photo of the slotted/drilled ones.

[CSG David]

Originally Posted by HappyMonkey

Thanks for all the comments. I learned a lot more than I expected to when I posted the questions. Before I go back to stock rotors here's a goodbye photo of the slotted/drilled ones.

Crack em first for good faith.

[HappyMonkey]

Originally Posted by CSG David

Crack em first for good faith.

She going to the track on the 19th and 27th. The plan is to run these ones on the 19th and the OEM ones on the 27th. I'll do my best to crack these on the 19th. I'll definitely report back if I pull it off.

[HappyMonkey]

Also, if anyone is curious I used the G2 High Temperature Brake Caliper Paint System Set Blue G2162 on the calipers. It's not a perfect match but close enough that I'm happy with it.

Here's the unedited straight from the camera version of that photo showing the true colors a little better.

[strat61caster]

fwiw since this thread is back on track the ATE fluid is a good choice for beginners imo, especially at half the cost of motul, I just switched to it myself (but not for track duty). It's the preferred fluid for casual Miata track guys last I checked (light cars = less brake heat) my roommate ran it in his NC with no issue, but we're solidly amateurs.

I've read people who run it will sometimes bleed the brakes between track sessions, which seems silly to me, but that's likely the worst case scenario for you HappyMonkey, but I bet the stoptech pads fade first unless you've changed your mind on those.

[HappyMonkey]

Originally Posted by strat61caster

but I bet the stoptech pads fade first unless you've changed your mind on those.

Yes, I gave up on those and went with the Hawk High Performance Street/Race pads instead. They have good reviews as a compromise street/track pad and they're compatible with Hawk DTC-* line when I decide to go with a dedicated track set.

[Icecreamtruk]

Originally Posted by HappyMonkey

Yes, I gave up on those and went with the Hawk High Performance Street/Race pads instead. They have good reviews as a compromise street/track pad and they're compatible with Hawk DTC-* line when I decide to go with a dedicated track set.

Street/race will work well for you, its no DTC-60, but its close enough and doesnt squeal like a dying pig on the street. I have run them both, and I can get away with 1 cooldown lap every 5 or 6 laps and no fade. This is being very rough on the brakes tho, enough to make them smoke hard when I come off the track (meaning I get to do parade laps around the pit area to cool them down). DTC-60s are better, but street/race is still very good.