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Engine, Exhaust, Transmission Discuss the FR-S | 86 | BRZ engine, exhaust and drivetrain.


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Old 09-14-2021, 11:17 PM   #15
soundman98
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Originally Posted by NoHaveMSG View Post
This is what I do on a stubborn shift. Though if you have to do this every time even with transmission at operating temp, you may have an issue that needs addressing.

yep. there's 3 stop signs leaving the house to the main road. if i lapse a little and don't try shifting into 1st until i come to a complete stop at any of those 3, it usually presents an issue. by the time i'm at the main road, everything's somewhat up to temp, and the issue resolves itself.

i also tend to deal with it by blipping the throttle, and shifting to 1st just before stopping, while the output shaft is still rotating.
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Old 09-15-2021, 03:19 PM   #16
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The issue really came on after the SC install, so I suspected bushings, it was nominally good before that. The SC definitely puts more movement/hysteresis in the system. For now, I just sacrifice the TOB and hold the clutch in while I'm in first until I get this resolved. New clutch and TOB is on 5K, I'm safe there. New motul gear fluid put in same time as clutch.

I'll get some more bushing work before I replace the trans, thanks to PulsarBeerz. I'll try evert bushing available before I put a new trans in.

I just had Torque Solution motor mounts, and Whiteline KDT922, KDT925 and KDT923 bushing kits installed today. Needed them for SC upgrade, hysteresis was excessive on any spirited launch to the point of bucking, or wheel hop. Laying into it hard you could definitely feel the excessive deflection in the system that if you didn't manage correctly, it lost its smooth transition to and from power.. That's gone now, feels really good and the transition to and from power hysteresis is greatly minimized. You can still feel the bushings doing their thing, but they're all much stiffer now as they should be.

I blew a pressure hose off leaving as the techs must have loosened the connection for motor mount install and forgot it upon reassembly. The clamp not blown was loose to the point I could loosen it by hand, so I know they had to have loosened them. I had 4k miles from same shop on the SC install with no issues. Thankfully, I leaned in hard out of the shop to find out early. Walked back, got a screwdriver, fixed in two minutes, drove back and returned the screwdriver. I'll lean on that shop for some perks in the future. And teach the owner to lean on the car harder when testing.

Shift issue persists, but I didn't expect that to be resolved as I was after another issue that I figure caused this one to begin with. But I can see how it is party to the issue and likely moved or damaged othher bushings as well. Or, at m mileage, its just finally worn out.


Back to the parts boards, thanks for the guidance and experience on these matters. ​
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Old 09-16-2021, 12:07 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by radroach View Post
@jeepmor glad you got your bushings set in.

You probably need to do a clutch engagement adjustment. After I did my bushings job at 130k miles, I did a minimal clutch adjustment, maybe a half turn and had much better time getting into gears.
Where do you adjust this thing, seriously? It's about as tight as it can get and no bubbles in the line. It's new Southbend (exedy) 350ft lb clutch, it works fine.

It's feeling a bit better after a shakedown on the new bushings today. Doesn't seem right though, went ahead and ordered the shift lever bushings. Give that a go before digging into transmission resources.

Still no feedback on trans replacements. Found Jack's in here. Anything else, ebay questions aren't getting answered.
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Old 09-16-2021, 06:01 PM   #18
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@jeepmor clutch engagement adjustment, it is right above your gas pedal, the clutch rod/lever goes up from the clutch pedal, over the footwell, and enters the firewall near the gas pedal. All you do is loosen a nut and rotate the pushrod, (half-turn recommended) and then tighten the nut back.
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Old 09-16-2021, 06:50 PM   #19
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Gotta let the transmission slow down after you push in the clutch pedal so first gear slides in. I never have a problem if I'm patient.
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Old 09-16-2021, 09:59 PM   #20
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@jeepmor clutch engagement adjustment, it is right above your gas pedal, the clutch rod/lever goes up from the clutch pedal, over the footwell, and enters the firewall near the gas pedal. All you do is loosen a nut and rotate the pushrod, (half-turn recommended) and then tighten the nut back.
Thank you, I was staring at the slave cylinder to the clutch fork scratching my head. Engage it more is what I gather you're referring too, so tightening it up just a little more. My engagement is already tighter than I'd prefer. I hit the TOB with only about 1/8" free travel to spare on the clutch pedal as it is. And the shop checked it the other day when I had my bushings and motor mounts put in.

Different topic with the bushings, but it did clean up this shifting issue a little bit. It's less frequent now, but I'm also more aware and putting my new TOB through more than my normal driving style of late.

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Gotta let the transmission slow down after you push in the clutch pedal so first gear slides in. I never have a problem if I'm patient.
This issue dead stop still, in neutral, clutch out sitting at a light. Light green, press in clutch, won't engage. If I'm moving, at all, it engages fine. I didn't suddenly wear out 1,2 syncros. I got a SC, enjoyed the power, ~4000miles now, and now I have this issue. I don't hit second much in my dedicated twisty drives that now would be a problem versus pre SC thrashing. But as stated, there is a lot of movement in the system with the added power and torque.

Last edited by jeepmor; 09-16-2021 at 10:14 PM. Reason: grammar
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Old 09-17-2021, 03:11 PM   #21
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@jeepmor then unscrew it and loosen it. If its too tight you won't be able to disengage the clutch and put it in gear!
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Old 09-17-2021, 10:34 PM   #22
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If its too tight, it'll ride the TOB and destroy it sooner than later. I'll look at it this weekend. It's too dark and I'm tool lazy at the moment, and have to go to work in the morning.
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Old 09-17-2021, 10:39 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Turdinator View Post
Was it an ACT clutch? Have you played with the clutch pedal height?

Very unlikely to be bushing related. Very likely to be clutch related.

I got an act clutch and it makes a weird whining noise when I turn my AC on but it drives fine. Occasionally I have to put it in 2nd and then first. I wonder if the noise is normal though. It’s definitely not the crickets noise either.


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Old 04-09-2022, 06:59 PM   #24
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I ended up adjusting my reverse lock out, it helped, but isn't the root cause as it still happens on occasion. May be time to drain the Motul and try something different. I also looked at the clutch adjustment and lowered the pedal 1/4-1/2". I overshot on the first try and had the pedal releasing right off the floor. So plenty of range to adjust it so you can keep your heel on the floor during shifting if that's what you like.

Penzoil gets really good reviews for this transmission. Any comments there, I think that's my next move.
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Old 04-14-2022, 04:04 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepmor View Post
I ended up adjusting my reverse lock out, it helped, but isn't the root cause as it still happens on occasion. May be time to drain the Motul and try something different. I also looked at the clutch adjustment and lowered the pedal 1/4-1/2". I overshot on the first try and had the pedal releasing right off the floor. So plenty of range to adjust it so you can keep your heel on the floor during shifting if that's what you like.

Penzoil gets really good reviews for this transmission. Any comments there, I think that's my next move.
Here's summary of mine

Clutch: Southbend stg2 w/ Verus fork and pivot
Mileage: been riding for 20K mileage~

and here's mods i have relate to transmission

whiteline transmission insert
Mtech shifter spring

what i did
1. replaced Transmission fluid w/ Motul --> not resolved
2. adjusted reverse lockout plate to give more space to have firm shifting --> little better but not resolved
3. Installed Torque Solution Shifter bushing --> this improved a lot but problem still exists but better
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Old 04-14-2022, 06:46 PM   #26
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Is this only when it is hot? I had a similar issue with first especially when I came off the track. I fixed it by switching to Motul 75-140.
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Old 04-14-2022, 07:13 PM   #27
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2022 BRZ with the same issue (same trans so makes sense). I'll hear a dull thud if I try to engage first after clutching in from a stop quickly.

Smooth if I count to three after clutching in.
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Old 04-14-2022, 11:10 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by zc06_kisstherain View Post
Here's summary of mine

Clutch: Southbend stg2 w/ Verus fork and pivot
Mileage: been riding for 20K mileage~

and here's mods i have relate to transmission

whiteline transmission insert
Mtech shifter spring

what i did
1. replaced Transmission fluid w/ Motul --> not resolved
2. adjusted reverse lockout plate to give more space to have firm shifting --> little better but not resolved
3. Installed Torque Solution Shifter bushing --> this improved a lot but problem still exists but better
I've done the same clutch and fork, perrin shift bushing and oil change at same time. It came on then. I've adjusted my reverse lockout and it's helped the best so far, but still cranky sometimes. Namely, stopping, going to neutral at a light and releasing the clutch. Then reengaging when to get going it again.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Grady View Post
Is this only when it is hot? I had a similar issue with first especially when I came off the track. I fixed it by switching to Motul 75-140.
It is worse when cold like the syncros aren't moving. Only when sitting still, releasing clutch at a light and putting in neutral. Trying to reengage at a stand still is the issue. It's like something quits spinning in 1, 2 and reverse sometimes making it real a pill to get in gear, very notchy. If I'm moving, even a little and engaging gears, it's fine.

Last edited by jeepmor; 04-14-2022 at 11:21 PM.
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