KPower Industries K24 swap

[Irace86.2.0]

Originally Posted by ML

k20z3 head is the good one for a k24a2 right?

Why do you believe that?

[ML]

Originally Posted by Irace86.2.0

Why do you believe that?

at the bottom of the Kpower dyno blog post it says "The K24 head seems to be holding us back a bit, and K20 heads are readily available on the cheap." and if my memory does not fail me I thought the k20z3 had the highest flow of all the stock heads...could be wrong.

[Irace86.2.0]

Originally Posted by ML

at the bottom of the Kpower dyno blog post it says "The K24 head seems to be holding us back a bit, and K20 heads are readily available on the cheap." and if my memory does not fail me I thought the k20z3 had the highest flow of all the stock heads...could be wrong.

It has a headifold. Not the best flow. K20a(JDM high performance)/k20a2 is the best.

Edit: maybe that is just the K24z3. Sorry. The intake manifold might be better on the k20z3 head, but it gets replaced on this swap.

[funkjaw]

Originally Posted by captain awesome

Sounds like 8200 will be where I'll stay then. As of right now I don't plan to go crazy on mods since my wallet is not in a healthy place right now. Kpower drained me.

This is from David Calzada on facebook:

"We’ve done 8200 RPM on track on stock K24A engines with a K20 pump for the last 10 years without ever experiencing a bottom end failure. Done it boosted making over 500whp too. Lots of internet experts will tell you more or less, but this has been our direct experience."

This is great info for guys like me who will be running a stock K24a2 + whatever performance enhancers come with the complete swap package (K20 oil pump, 50 degree VTC, etc..). I think gears would be a big plus since at a minimum on an NA setup there is about 1000 meaningful RPMs to be had over the FA20.

Now I'm thinking 4.44 FD... ahh decisions, decisions.

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by funkjaw

Now I'm thinking 4.44 FD... ahh decisions, decisions.

It is worth just buying a complete 4.3 diff to try. At worst you will get your money back out of it. If you don't like it you will have a better idea of what you would want, and can have your original diff's gears swapped without putting your car down. I just bought another complete Y58 diff for 450 free shipping. FD gears from MFactory are 650ish alone, plus install.

[Irace86.2.0]

Looks like they are tediously working on the harnesses.

[funkjaw]

Originally Posted by NoHaveMSG

It is worth just buying a complete 4.3 diff to try. At worst you will get your money back out of it. If you don't like it you will have a better idea of what you would want, and can have your original diff's gears swapped without putting your car down. I just bought another complete Y58 diff for 450 free shipping. FD gears from MFactory are 650ish alone, plus install.

$450 is a good deal, did you find that on eBay?

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by funkjaw

$450 is a good deal, did you find that on eBay?

Yeah. I paid 590 for the one I bought before so I jumped on this one.


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[redlined600]

I'm still on the fence, the electronics package is quite a bit more than I expected. I'm still going to continue to prep the k24 I picked up though.
I also really like the idea of using the lighter and stronger ZF trans, but in practice they are all really old now, going up in price and add complexity to the swap.

I don't think I'll need everything so I don't see value in buying the full kit.

The draw of weight loss and the added power under the curve is a strong argument.

[Irace86.2.0]

Originally Posted by redlined600

I'm still on the fence, the electronics package is quite a bit more than I expected. I'm still going to continue to prep the k24 I picked up though.
I also really like the idea of using the lighter and stronger ZF trans, but in practice they are all really old now, going up in price and add complexity to the swap.

I don't think I'll need everything so I don't see value in buying the full kit.

The draw of weight loss and the added power under the curve is a strong argument.

How much did you think it was going to be? Just curious. The Haltech is more expensive than the upcoming Hondata K-Pro, but not a whole lot more, and you get a lot with it. You could use a Tfworks harness with a Hondata I believe, but it’ll not have CANBUS integration, so consider that, but between the harness and Hondata, you are still looking at $2k+. The extra money spent is expensive, but $1500ish is worth it for Haltech control, CANBUS and full plug-n-play.

The ZF kit will probably come next year when they release a turbo kit. Unless you are CSG Mike and beating on your transmission at the track, or unless you are boosted, you probably won’t need the transmission upgrade. I put down 350-400whp and 250-275tq+ on the stock transmission. Not tracking it though.

[redlined600]

Originally Posted by Irace86.2.0

How much did you think it was going to be? Just curious. The Haltech is more expensive than the upcoming Hondata K-Pro, but not a whole lot more, and you get a lot with it. You could use a Tfworks harness with a Hondata I believe, but it’ll not have CANBUS integration, so consider that, but between the harness and Hondata, you are still looking at $2k+. The extra money spent is expensive, but $1500ish is worth it for Haltech control, CANBUS and full plug-n-play.

The ZF kit will probably come next year when they release a turbo kit. Unless you are CSG Mike and beating on your transmission at the track, or unless you are boosted, you probably won’t need the transmission upgrade. I put down 350-400whp and 250-275tq+ on the stock transmission. Not tracking it though.

I figured around $2500, $1500 for the haltec and $1k for the harness. I understand the benefits to the can integration, if I do it, this would be my path forward.

It the weight of the zf.that is enticing, the extra strength is an added bonus.

[Irace86.2.0]

Originally Posted by redlined600

I figured around $2500, $1500 for the haltec and $1k for the harness. I understand the benefits to the can integration, if I do it, this would be my path forward.

It the weight of the zf.that is enticing, the extra strength is an added bonus.

Like I said, you could do a TF-works wiring harness and Hondata K-Pro without any can integration, and it'll probably cost around $2000-2500. It appears that KPower might be deciding to forget the Hondata option. They probably have enough interest in the Haltech kit, but on their Q&A session on Instagram, they said the Hondata is not good on this platform, which led me to believe they were dropping the "cheap" Hondata option.

I don't have experience with the ZF. My concern, if I ever do a transmission upgrade, is finding a good transmission with a similar quality to the shifts. I like a tight, short-throw shifter that feels very gated like a bolt-action rifle. Gearing is also important. Weight will be third to both of those things, as I will be pushing north of 450whp to be using a different transmission. I almost need to drive an old ZF and a CD009 or something to figure which feels the best.

[ML]

I'm pulling out all the brz stock harness and remaking them as I only have a short list of circuits remaining in the car. The canbus is going to be amazing. My question is on the jumper board it looks like they are missing a lot of inputs from the ECU (white Plugs) even though it is going into the oem ECU case. Seems like there should be more connections for the white plugs and I don't want to start ripping up the harnesses until I see the diagram

[funkjaw]

Might be wishful thinking - but really hoping the next gen 86 transmission both bolts right up to the car/this kit and also takes quite a bit more power. That would definitely encourage me to build a torque focused supercharged K engine...