02-11-2018, 08:21 PM | #3487 |
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That might be an option, does anyone have experience with two camber bolts? I'm not really worried about the DD aspect, I just want it to feel sporty again. Currently I hate the rear camber but then again my front is +1.5 comparatively. Any drawbacks to your recommended camber?
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02-11-2018, 11:01 PM | #3488 |
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2.5f/2r is a great for spirited driving without too much tire wear. Stick to zero toe. Lots of people do the two bolkt trick, including the entire SCCA SSC solo cpec class. SPC bolt in the top, move the topo bolt to the bottom I think it is. I don't have personal experience as I've always had camber plates so verify the bolt setup. Depending on tire size and wheel offset, you may get less camber before the tire is too close to the spring perch. Or more.
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02-12-2018, 12:10 AM | #3489 |
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Others will have to chime in as I haven't tried it myself either but I thought it was SPC bolt for bottom and put OEM bottom bolt into top bolt. I don't think the other way would work since the top bolt is larger than the bottom bolt.
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02-12-2018, 01:03 AM | #3490 | |
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"I just want it to feel sporty again" makes me suspicious though, as to what you really want and what is sporty feel by your book. It did felt sporty, but not anymore? My guess is that you installed grippier (or wider) tires while still staying at stock NA power, so car feels less lively/hard to loose grip if/when you wanted? Then not sure, if upping neg. camber will net what you may really want, as it will add grip in turns taken fast. I have suspicion that you may have wished ease of power oversteer "like stock", but it's just guesswork from my part. Less grippier tires imho should bring what you seem to want better. |
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02-12-2018, 02:44 AM | #3491 | |
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I put the SPC camber bolts in the lower hole, and the original bottom bolt (14mm) into the upper hole. I'm able to max the front out at -2.5 degrees, but your results may vary. |
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02-12-2018, 02:58 AM | #3492 | |
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Essentially you can get the SPC 14mm front bottom camber bolt and move the oem 14mm to the top. Only reason why I didn't go this route is because I am afraid of it slipping. Smaller bolt in a bigger hole without any support from it slipping into the gap that isn't filled despite being torqued isn't my cup of tea. At least with the SPC 16mm camber bolt up top, you can still adjust camber but still have that empty void in the hole filled up. That is correct. |
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02-12-2018, 05:06 AM | #3493 | |
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Great to know I can get -2.3 with bolts. I think I'll go this route. Thanks for everyone's responses! |
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02-12-2018, 05:56 AM | #3494 |
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Spacemane969: If you are on lowering springs as you mentioned, then with two camberbolt sets you can go to -2.5. If even more wished, one can get powerflex front LCA bushing pff69-801g (both camberbolts + it = ~ -3, so lowered, probably -3.2). Even more than that - one will need camberplates.
Weird to hear that understeer/oversteer grip bias has changed. Lowering rised camber, but in both rear & front, vs stock, didn't it? I wonder if it's not due toe getting out of whack and maybe one may simply need alignment to get both sides even and put toe back to zero (or slightly toe-in, if on rear). Of course, stock alignment already is understeer biased (but you said, you liked it?), so extra camber both front & rear shouldn't change it much. Well, anyway, more neg. camber front then rear should deal with excessive understeer unlike stock that had camber other way around (0 front, -1.2 rear). |
02-12-2018, 07:58 PM | #3495 | |
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02-12-2018, 08:28 PM | #3496 |
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75k miles on bad roads can wear shocks, indeed. Maybe not to failure, but to performing worse then new. For best bang for buck suggest getting slightly used MY2017 shocks. Many speak very well of them.
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02-15-2018, 09:36 AM | #3497 |
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I do have shocks high on my list. How difficult is install for a beginner? I had my springs installed for me because I was worried about dealing with the spring tension.
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02-15-2018, 10:13 AM | #3498 | |
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02-15-2018, 08:36 PM | #3499 |
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Install imho isn't difficult, if you have needed tools to lift car for maintenance, eg. jacks & stand. Problem comes that after changing shocks one needs to do alignment. Which while also can be DIY doable (eg. strings method and such), but is time-sapping tedious process i find much better being done on laser alignment rig while i drink coffee
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02-15-2018, 10:18 PM | #3500 |
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Are the regular '17 dampers any different than the '13-'16? My '14 is past 80K miles on what I believe are the stock dampers. They still feel good. Throwing on TRD springs soon which I would imagine would degrade their performance a little quicker but not willing to drop the money on Bilstein or Koni.
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