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Suspension | Chassis | Brakes -- Sponsored by 949 Racing Relating to suspension, chassis, and brakes. Sponsored by 949 Racing. |
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#15 | |
That Guy
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The Following User Says Thank You to Calum For This Useful Post: | jonnyozero3 (04-12-2013) |
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#16 |
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This post is useless without video! I would love to watch that!
Sorry, been racing and teaching since the 90's, doesn't seem remarkable anymore. I'll have to get some rain day video for you. Should be able to humiliate Z06's and modded M3's in the rain.... |
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#17 |
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BTW I have had offline questions about the xp8's. They are perfect track pads. Although I use them on and off track (1/3 track miles) I wouldn't recommend them for a daily driver unless you want to put up with excessive squealing on the street. (I'm usually too tired to care enough to change them) If you wanted to use xp8's I would use Carbotech's 1521 bobcat compound on the street so you would not spoil the rotors with non-ceramic compounds.
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The Following User Says Thank You to AndyB For This Useful Post: | Calum (04-12-2013) |
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#18 | |
That Guy
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#19 | |
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I'm just a guy driving the wheels off of a great little sports car. |
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The Following User Says Thank You to AndyB For This Useful Post: | sroby (07-09-2019) |
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#20 | |
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I'm just a guy driving the wheels off of a great little sports car. HPDE is street car track days FYI |
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#21 |
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JRitt, Essex offers excelent advice on brakes here. I'm only planning driving on the street but in a spirited fashion. The stock brakes seemed a bit soft to me. I added a master cylinder brace and stainless steel lines in that order so I could assess whatever gains they afforded. I can report that the stainless lines transformed the brakes. One can now really get into the brakes and they act RIGHT NOW. It's one of those $100 investments that really makes the FR-S/BRZ into a significantly better vehicle. Money well spent!
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The Following User Says Thank You to Red2Liter For This Useful Post: | JRitt (04-14-2013) |
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#22 |
Join Date: Feb 2012
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I had someone on the Corvette forum ask about drilled vs. slotted vs. plain brake discs, and which one is the toughest on pads. I threw together a summary of the merits of each:
Generally speaking, the more leading edges you have on the face pattern of the disc, the more places the pads have to 'grab' the disc face, and the more pad wear they will cause. It's a tradeoff...more leading edges= more bite, less leading edges= less pad bite. So in order of pad wear, from the most pad wear to least pad wear, it would look something like this: Drilled discs Slotted discs with lots of leading edges ( X pattern, J Hook, etc.) Slotted discs with straight slots Plain face discs (without any slots or drill holes) That said, we're talking about a modest increase in pad wear as we move up the ladder from the bottom. In other words, I wouldn't expect a drilled disc to wear a pad twice as fast as a plain face disc. It's really tough to attach a number or order of magnitude to it, so I'm not going to make anything up and pretend it's fact. ![]() The hierarchy above holds true for noise as well. The more aggressive drill or slot patterns will create more scraping or whirring noises than a plain-faced disc. As others have mentioned, drilled discs are generally not the best performance option, as they are more prone to cracking. They look good, but stick with some form of slot pattern if you plan to run them hard. Summary: Drilled- looks good on the street but highest NVH, not recommended for track use due to a propensity to crack. Slotted discs with lots of leading edges- Good on street, and best for track. Offer high pad bite with reasonable amount of noise and NVH on street. A carefully executed design such as the AP Racing J Hook distributes heat evenly throughout the disc and helps prevent disc cracking and uneven pad deposits. Slotted discs with straight slots- Slightly less noise on street vs. an aggressive slot pattern, but also a little less pad bite. Slots that go to the outer edge of disc are bad because they create stress risers/cracks. Also, standard straight slot patterns tend to cause temperature gradients (hot spots around the slots and cool spots in between them on disc face), which can contribute to cracks and or pad deposits/judder. Plain face discs (without any slots or drill holes)- Lowest NVH for street use, but less pad bite on track vs. any of the slotted discs. More even heat distribution than a straight slot disc, and less prone to uneven pad deposits/judder. Choosing which type is best for you is all about tradeoffs and what your goals are with your car. ![]()
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#23 |
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Awesome guide.
Sent from my Q10 |
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The Following User Says Thank You to Accurate Race Shop For This Useful Post: | JRitt (12-20-2013) |
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#24 |
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Awesome reading. Pretty common knowledge (I would think anyway) but still very good information.
I've seen far too many guys cook their brakes on spirited mountain runs (some downhill) by just sitting on them for extended periods of time. Get on them hard, get off and be on your way. When you see brake lights on for far too long, it's not long before you can smell em cookin from behind them. The stock brakes on the FR-S are DEFINITELY soft/mushy. A Grimmspeed master cylinder brace went a long way to improving the pedal feel and reducing the pedal travel needed to stop the car. With that being said, I had a Tarox BBK on my R32 which I absolutely loved. Amazing feel, stopping power and tons of braking confidence. Arguably overkill but hard to tell. I don't think I will go BBK on this car, yet. Doesn't seem necessary with the current power levels. Definitely looking into an upgraded set of pads (project mu?), rotors (dba t3's?) and some rbf 660 in the near future though. Thread deserves a sticky. Far too many suspension threads and not nearly enough brake-related (often overlooked imo) threads in this forum. ![]() |
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The Following User Says Thank You to mfbmike For This Useful Post: | JRitt (12-20-2013) |
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#25 |
Just a dude
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Posts like this are why I like this site. So much knowledge and always something anyone can learn something new.
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#26 | |
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The Following User Says Thank You to JRitt For This Useful Post: | mfbmike (12-20-2013) |
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#27 | |
Twin Screw You
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Thank you @JRitt for putting your thoughts together to help make our decisions a little easier. ![]()
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The Following User Says Thank You to Dustin For This Useful Post: | JRitt (12-30-2013) |
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#28 |
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anyone have feedback on the performance of swapping out with the 2006/7 wrx calipers?
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brake, discs, lines, pads, rotors |
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