Blew my motor

[Noobthen]

Hey guys I recently installed a stage 2 MAP turbo kit with a precision Ball bearing 5858. I was running a safe tune and decided to race an M3 and won. Unfortunately towards the end of the race I discovered a weird ticking noise. Eventfully once my motor was cracked opened, we discovered it was a broken Piston. What is a good affordable piston and Rod that you guys recommend to handle around 450 HP (max) On E85 Gas.

[CSG Mike]

What kind of compression do you wanT?

[NyC Zn6]

Originally Posted by Noobthen

Hey guys I recently installed a stage 2 MAP turbo kit with a precision Ball bearing 5858. I was running a safe tune and decided to race an M3 and won. Unfortunately towards the end of the race I discovered a weird ticking noise. Eventfully once my motor was cracked opened, we discovered it was a broken Piston. What is a good affordable piston and Rod that you guys recommend to handle around 450 HP (max) On E85 Gas.

Might have won the battle but M3 won the war....On a serious note good luck with the build bro

[mixtape]

Did it at least buy you dinner first?

[STV3]

Your tune was obviously not as safe as you thought.

[CounterSpace Garage]

Originally Posted by NyC Zn6

Might have won the battle but M3 won the war....On a serious note good luck with the build bro

[Noobthen]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

What kind of compression do you wanT?

Im thinking of 10:1

[Noobthen]

Originally Posted by mixtape

Did it at least buy you dinner first?

Lol of course :p

[Noobthen]

Originally Posted by STV3

Your tune was obviously not as safe as you thought.

I was told not to run it hard. But I guess I am stubborn and never listen to directions. This just gives me a chance to build the motor while its open.

[GsxrMe]

1) What tune is the safe tune? MAP base map?
2) What psi? No more than 7-8psi I hope.
3) Factory rev limiter? Factory valve springs suck ass

[SoCal80six]

Originally Posted by Noobthen

Hey guys I recently installed a stage 2 MAP turbo kit with a precision Ball bearing 5858. I was running a safe tune and decided to race an M3 and won. Unfortunately towards the end of the race I discovered a weird ticking noise. Eventfully once my motor was cracked opened, we discovered it was a broken Piston. What is a good affordable piston and Rod that you guys recommend to handle around 450 HP (max) On E85 Gas.

Did the same thing ahah same turbo and kit to!!! Have you had the chance to strip down the block and see all the damage you did??

[FRS Justin]

Originally Posted by Noobthen

Im thinking of 10:1

if you want a decent idle go back with 12.5, lower compression isn't needed with the D4S system. The port injectors can spray fuel right on top of the piston to keep things cool.
The difference in power between 10.5 and 12.5 is 20hp n/a approx.. That is about 3.2 psi of boost for the same level of power on the top side. Plus Low compression boosted apps suck compared with the High compression boosted engines. Lowering compression is old school thinking for old school motors (V8s) Maximize your new school engine. Think of it this way you were 12.5 before the motor blew so why drop now? Why put strong components in your motor if your going to detune it with lower compression. DO you run your motor at mid boost and up 90% of the time?? No you daily the car so their is no need to lower the compression and sacrifice drivability on the street.
If your hell bent on 10.5 I have a set of JE 10.5 pistons with 250 miles on them I will sell cheap. I also have a set of L19 head studs to....I'm back to 12.5 and I will never lower my compression again on a FA20 the difference is night and day.....

[SoCal80six]

Originally Posted by FRS Justin

if you want a decent idle go back with 12.5, lower compression isn't needed with the D4S system. The port injectors can spray fuel right on top of the piston to keep things cool.
The difference in power between 10.5 and 12.5 is 20hp n/a approx.. That is about 3.2 psi of boost for the same level of power on the top side. Plus Low compression boosted apps suck compared with the High compression boosted engines. Lowering compression is old school thinking for old school motors (V8s) Maximize your new school engine. Think of it this way you were 12.5 before the motor blew so why drop now? Why put strong components in your motor if your going to detune it with lower compression. DO you run your motor at mid boost and up 90% of the time?? No you daily the car so their is no need to lower the compression and sacrifice drivability on the street.
If your hell bent on 10.5 I have a set of JE 10.5 pistons with 250 miles on them I will sell cheap. I also have a set of L19 head studs to....I'm back to 12.5 and I will never lower my compression again on a FA20 the difference is night and day.....

Heard you were going back to stock cr your having outfront do your build correct?

[GsxrMe]

I kinda agree with frs Justin, in the fact. When I lowered my CR on my hayabusa to 9:1, I felt the bike was a gsxr 600 before boost. When I hit boost, snap.... it was nasty, nasty, nasty.

I think the tuner can advance timing with the much lower CR to help before boost and start to pull timing as needed as the turbo starts to spool. The plus side to lower CR is just less room for error and with valve and piston clearance. Also with lower CR we can run 93octane at much high hp.

For the people running a gtx28 the factory CR with stronger rods and valves might be idle but for the members running much larger turbos such as the gtx30 I or gtx35s with hp goals over 400, I'd say lower CR is required.

Find your hp goal and talk to a real tuner that has great reviews not just a ecutek stamp on the ecutek website.

I'm still intrested in what psi this motor was blow at.