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Old 08-23-2024, 03:16 PM   #57
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Newest episode is up!

let me know what you guys think!


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Old 11-26-2024, 11:25 AM   #58
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I am still plugging away with no real news just yet.

Work has been in the way, replacing the cam phasers in my F150, doing a rear suspension overhaul on my buddies cayenne, painting my house....

Now it's time to get hard into the work.

I'm currently working with a 3D scan to create a tubular subframe design. I'm planning on doing the subframe work in Docol R8, 1.5in x 0.095 wall thickness. Should be stronger then the factory frame, and weigh about the same or possibly a touch less.

With the new rules, I'm trying to decide if I want to run in Max 4 at 3000 lbs with driver and whatever power I can get out of the car, or run my originally planned weight of 2700lbs with driver and end up in Max 2

Photos for funsies.

Please help me decide on the Max 4 v Max 2 and give me some critique on the subframe design ...
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Old 11-28-2024, 12:27 PM   #59
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Please help me decide on the Max 4 v Max 2 and give me some critique on the subframe design ...
Hard to say anything about the subframe with the sections that I can see.


In my area M4 isn’t competitive, but I thought M4 was up to 2.4NA and M3 is 4.2NA. I ran my car up in M3(NA BRZ) and still got 3rd. I’d look at the classes and see who’s winning and what the lap times are locally and try to put yourself where you will be competitive.
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Old 11-28-2024, 10:32 PM   #60
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I'm currently working with a 3D scan to create a tubular subframe design. I'm planning on doing the subframe work in Docol R8, 1.5in x 0.095 wall thickness. Should be stronger then the factory frame, and weigh about the same or possibly a touch less.

With the new rules, I'm trying to decide if I want to run in Max 4 at 3000 lbs with driver and whatever power I can get out of the car, or run my originally planned weight of 2700lbs with driver and end up in Max 2

Photos for funsies.

Please help me decide on the Max 4 v Max 2 and give me some critique on the subframe design ...
Why does the cross tubing design look out of alignment with the original subframe? Are you planning to hang mounts off it that will put everything in the correct location?

Also, if it weighs basically the same, what's the actual point of building a new one from scratch?

I haven't read the new rules yet but I would think you would want to check out the National results and see how you might compare there against each class.
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Old 12-02-2024, 10:59 PM   #61
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Why does the cross tubing design look out of alignment with the original subframe? Are you planning to hang mounts off it that will put everything in the correct location?

Also, if it weighs basically the same, what's the actual point of building a new one from scratch?

I haven't read the new rules yet but I would think you would want to check out the National results and see how you might compare there against each class.
The cross tubing is out of alignment to clear the rear of the pumpkin in the transaxle. I could make the old on work...but I'd be left with a bunch of patchwork that I'm not sure would be safe.
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Old 12-03-2024, 11:13 PM   #62
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As for the Max rules, the entire subset has pretty much been re-written/organized.

Max3 used to be 2.9 to 4.5L NA and 95% vehicle weight with driver, or 2500 lbs, whichever is greater.

That class has been shaken up for the heavier cars, and is now up to 6.4L and 3800 lb minimum.

Max 4 is now 4.5L max displacement and a minimum of 3000 lbs with driver. I can cut up to 300 lbs under that, and jump to Max 2.

Max 2 is more broad, but thats pretty nutty territory. Competition I would be looking at modified NA up to 6.4L and 3300lbs, or single forced induction unmodified up to 6.4L and 3800 lbs. So, c7Zo6 and C7ZR1....
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Old 12-04-2024, 02:40 AM   #63
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As for the Max rules, the entire subset has pretty much been re-written/organized.

Max3 used to be 2.9 to 4.5L NA and 95% vehicle weight with driver, or 2500 lbs, whichever is greater.

That class has been shaken up for the heavier cars, and is now up to 6.4L and 3800 lb minimum.

Max 4 is now 4.5L max displacement and a minimum of 3000 lbs with driver. I can cut up to 300 lbs under that, and jump to Max 2.

Max 2 is more broad, but thats pretty nutty territory. Competition I would be looking at modified NA up to 6.4L and 3300lbs, or single forced induction unmodified up to 6.4L and 3800 lbs. So, c7Zo6 and C7ZR1....
What mods were you considering to the engine? Leaving it stock with bolt on’s and tune seems like it would be a more feasible build. I couldn’t imagine trying to ballast up a twin to 3300lbs with driver.

Getting OT but do you have a link to these changes? I saw an announcement on the last Fastrack that there would be changes to Max classing structure but this is pretty extreme.
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Old 12-04-2024, 07:00 AM   #64
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Originally Posted by Rex1585 View Post
As for the Max rules, the entire subset has pretty much been re-written/organized.

Max3 used to be 2.9 to 4.5L NA and 95% vehicle weight with driver, or 2500 lbs, whichever is greater.

That class has been shaken up for the heavier cars, and is now up to 6.4L and 3800 lb minimum.

Max 4 is now 4.5L max displacement and a minimum of 3000 lbs with driver. I can cut up to 300 lbs under that, and jump to Max 2.

Max 2 is more broad, but thats pretty nutty territory. Competition I would be looking at modified NA up to 6.4L and 3300lbs, or single forced induction unmodified up to 6.4L and 3800 lbs. So, c7Zo6 and C7ZR1....
See here for the November Fast Track: https://timetrials.scca.com/downloads/73768/download
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Old 12-04-2024, 09:25 AM   #65
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See here for the November Fast Track: https://timetrials.scca.com/downloads/73768/download
Thank you!!! I only saw the first page like a dolt.

What a mess, so much weird overlap with displacement/mods/weight combo’s that don’t make sense to me at all.
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Old 12-04-2024, 10:41 AM   #66
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Thank you!!! I only saw the first page like a dolt.

What a mess, so much weird overlap with displacement/mods/weight combo’s that don’t make sense to me at all.
Completely agreed. I'll start a thread in the correct forum on this topic because I've wanted to talk to someone about it to make sense of it.
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Old 12-04-2024, 11:32 AM   #67
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What mods were you considering to the engine? Leaving it stock with bolt on’s and tune seems like it would be a more feasible build. I couldn’t imagine trying to ballast up a twin to 3300lbs with driver.



Getting OT but do you have a link to these changes? I saw an announcement on the last Fastrack that there would be changes to Max classing structure but this is pretty extreme.
Engine mods are going to only be "bolt-on" in nature. Nothing wild or crazy, even though a roots S/C would be a RIOT to have on this thing.

So, ITBs and Custom headers is pretty much the only plan.

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Old 12-21-2024, 04:29 PM   #68
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Ok, so I am finally done designing the rear subframe to hold the transaxle. I have a few things that I need to do to polish. I need to verify everything from bolt hole diameters, to mount widths, etc. I then need to make sure that these parts can even be made. With all of that said, here it is in different views, first picture is the design, second picture is the subframe scan overlaid the top of it with the tubular frame highlighted to make it stand out.

Let me know what you think about it.

[See attached photos]

I have been reading over the rules and ballast addition is not legal. Which sucks.

I am pretty much looking to add weight at this point to run Max 4 and be competitive. Photo taken from FTClub

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Originally Posted by hal0n @FTClub View Post
I weighed my US market BRZ (premium). This is with a full tank of gas and nothing else extraneous (tools, mats, spare).
[see attached photo]

With a factory weight 2690lbs and you figure me at 185 lbs...this is going to be tought to pull off and not end up in Max 2 where I will be absolutely man handled. I need to find a way to add about 190 lbs :\

You might be asking " Tyler, isn't the added displacement going to add a lot of weight?" The short answer is "No".

When I put the engine in the car I weighed it at 391lbs without the intake, which is around 15lbs. The FA20 is around 390-395lbs complete, so the weight change won't come from the engine side...

When you look at the tranmission, the Factory Automatic is around 140 lbs, which is about 50 lbs or so more than the manual. The rear differential is around 75 lbs, and the driveshaft is about 35-40. My transaxle is 175lbs complete, or 40 lbs less than the automatic and rear differential. So I am back into the realm of ZN6 with a manual.

The one advantage I have here to add weight will come from running 2 exhaust pipes, a larger radiator, and an oil sump from the dry sump setup. The larger wheels and tires will also add weight, stock setup is about 40 lbs per wheel and tire assembly. Factory wheels are around 20.6lbs, and the aftermarket wheel are all around a similar weight or lighter. The ESR wheels I have are heavy, 29lbs or so each. Tire choices I am looking at are around 7lbs more per tire, so there might be around 60-70lbs. I was originally planning on running a BBK from AP Racing, but their system weighs less... I will be running a roll bar/ rear cage so I am sure there is 50-80 lbs depending on setup... With all of this mentioned, it will be CLOSE.

TL;DR, I need to find 190 lbs of weight to add in, without ballast plates.
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Old 12-29-2024, 09:33 PM   #69
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This weekend I picked up the needed steel tube for my rear subframe.

The bending die should be here tomorrow.

I have placed the order for my subframe mounts that I have designed. They should be here on Jan 7th.

Some interesting bits about this, I will need to make sure the upper control arm mounts stay on the same axis otherwise the suspension will bind. I have a few ideas on how to do this.

I need to find an un-modified subframe so I can make my jig to mimic the original setup without making the car undrivable by changing the geometry unknowingly. This shouldn't be too bad, as there have been a few twins made....

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Old 12-30-2024, 01:19 PM   #70
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I need to find an un-modified subframe so I can make my jig to mimic the original setup without making the car undrivable by changing the geometry unknowingly. This shouldn't be too bad, as there have been a few twins made....
Aren't you missing the trailing arm connection points in your subframe? Also, might want to consider relocating them similarly to the MCA traction mod to reduce anti-squat.

The same can be asked about the sway bar mounting plates.
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