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#15 |
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The click is the starter solenoid engaging but not spinning. I am currently putting the tranny back together but will try jumping those point I have a hand held switch
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You said you tested the new starter you put in it? I had a similar issue on a different vehicle. Starter would click but not turn the engine over. Turned out to be a bad starter from Autozone. This could be the issue you are having as well.
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I've been dealing with my car not starting for a few weeks now. It happened suddenly, not gradually. No work done on the starter or related elements immediately proceeding the issue (work has been done recently a couple of weeks prior... full exhaust, intake tube, and replaced the battery with a lightweight setup). We thought it might be the starter itself, so we replaced it, but that wasn't actually the problem. Went ahead and replaced the starter relay and clutch switch, but no fix there. I can start the car by shorting the starter itself across connections and it starts up fine and runs. We're hearing clicking when trying to start in the fuse box, but the starter relay itself looks fine. Grounds all look good. Not sure what else to check, any thoughts?
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Quote:
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It's not a battery issue, since we can short the starter connection and start the car up fine. Or at least not a battery voltage issue directly I should say.
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Check the ground strap on the bell housing. May have got damaged doing the exhaust.
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#21 |
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Where on the bellhousing is the ground connection?
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Left side where it says "disconnect".
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#23 |
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One way to figure out where to focus is to test the state of vehicle electronics during the start attempt.
Ideally, you would have an inductive amp measuring device on the positive battery cable. Alternatively, you can put a DVOM on the battery itself. Starters draw approx 150-300 Amps when working properly. If you have an electrical issue, you will see lower than expected amps. If you have a mechanical issue, you will see higher than expected amps. A weak battery can also cause excessive amperage when starting. If you are only measuring voltage, expect to see around 10-something volts during a normal crank attempt on a good battery. Lower will indicate mechanical issue and higher electronic. This method is not nearly as accurate as an amp test though. After this test, you can zero in better.. As others have said, if you didn't have a problem before you did the work and then suddenly after the repair, you do, it's almost always a result of work performed. I had a guy walk into my shop asking for a jumpstart. I obliged, grabbed our jump box and got his car started back up. After talking to him and learning he had only been parked for a few minutes, I was curious as to why suddenly it wouldn't start. I grabbed and twisted the battery cables. The negative cable was loose. Turns out, he had just done a headlight bulb and did not properly reconnect the cable end. That may not be what's happening here, but just saying that sometimes we can be sure that we've done something correctly when in fact.. oops.. we actually did forget to do such and such a thing. Also, there's always the chance that during disassembly you damaged the starter. Maybe it dropped? Then you replaced it, but got a defective starter. You can't always trust new parts. Not all that likely of a scenario, but throwing that out there.
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2016 Oceanic Last edited by ActionMaxon; 02-07-2020 at 09:11 PM. |
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#24 |
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^^reported and to @ichitaka05 via PM^^
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