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#1751 |
Member
Join Date: May 2021
Drives: K24 2014 brz
Location: long beach, CA
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I finally got the pedal dance to work in my car. I know a lot of people just get the trac box to activate it at a button push but just in case some people are struggling and don't want to spend the extra money, I figured I would post what worked for me.
My idle was set too high (1050) so no matter how much the car warmed up it wouldn't ever be in a state to accept the inputs. Dropping it to 850 made activating pedal dance easy and consistent to start. It only needs to be below 1000 but my brake pedal causes the rpm to jump so I went lower than necessary. |
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#1752 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Drives: Whiteout track car; lava donor
Location: Portland, OR
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#1753 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
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Location: Arizona
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If anyone was ever thinking of running something stiffer than the rubber WRX mounts that come with the kit ... don't even bother trying.
![]() edit: Anchor 9024 is what is included in the KPower mount kit Anchor 9023 is also listed for a WRX, it is what some refer to as "STI Mounts". They're larger than the 9024 and you have to run the drivers side flipped to clear the oil pan. Probably just buy the 9024 if replacing the mounts.
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Last edited by RedReplicant; 02-08-2024 at 03:00 PM. |
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#1754 |
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Join Date: Aug 2015
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Location: Arizona
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Going to be testing this option for the shift selector rod here soon
https://www.instagram.com/p/C2-y-FmRolc/
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The Following User Says Thank You to RedReplicant For This Useful Post: | endless_pain (02-08-2024) |
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#1755 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Drives: Fr-s
Location: MN
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Maybe a bit of semi-useless info, but I was digging around a found that both the TSX and S2000 use manifold braces. This may be a moot subject if Kpower offers/switches to the balancer shaft setup.
#9 might be a second brace as well but I couldn't confirm. ![]() ![]()
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Last edited by redlined600; 03-12-2024 at 03:30 PM. |
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#1756 | |
Wears Pants
Join Date: Apr 2019
Drives: 14 FRS K24 swap - SOLD
Location: Bella Vista, AR
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This may have been buried in this thread somewhere but a homebrew brace can be made pretty easily with cheap materials.
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#1757 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Drives: Fr-s
Location: MN
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Quote:
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#1758 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Drives: K24 Swapped FRS
Location: Vancouver, BC
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Jumping on the forums to see if members on here can offer any knowledge or wisdom.
My car is primarily a track car running a 4Piston K24 NA engine making around 280whp and 200wtq. The issue that I've been having for a while now is when on track, and when things seemingly get hot, the clutch pedal doesn't come back up off the floor during gear shifts. And I'd have to use my foot to bring the pedal back up. I would clutch in to grab a gear, and it would be hard to move the gear lever into a gear as if the clutch wasn't fully disengaging. When I first encountered this problem last year, thinking it was air getting into the hydraulic system. I replaced the clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder with new OEM units, and stainless braided clutch line and I still am encountering the problem despite replacing all external clutch parts with new components. Have bled the clutch slave countless of times with various brake fluids (Castrol SRF, Endless RF650, Brembo 64T) I'm running the Verus clutch fork with Kpower steel flywheel and Exedy stage 1 clutch. Strangely enough, this problem only occurs when things get hot on track with repeated redline shifts, and the car shifts fine on the street after everything has cooled off. Also any tips on how to drop the transmission with the engine still in place? Seems harder to do with a K-swapped car than the stock FA20 setup. My next move is dropping the transmission to inspect all the clutch components. |
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#1759 |
Senior Member
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I've heard of this happening before, you might find something if you search the FB group.
As far as dropping the transmission in car, it is pretty easy as long as you sufficiently clearanced the chassis so the transmission can drop down through the mounting horns on either side. Remove the slave cylinder first and then put a block of wood under the oil pan and jack up the motor to tilt it backwards. HF transmission jack is your friend.
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#1760 | |
Member
Join Date: Feb 2017
Drives: Many
Location: San Francisco
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#1761 |
Member
Join Date: Aug 2016
Drives: 2017 Series.Yellow, 2005 LGT wagon
Location: Rockford, IL
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Would anyone happen to have, or know how to obtain CAN data for Gen 1.5 (2017-2020) BRZs?
I have a 2017 with K-Power's full kit. Most everything works, except for a few items. My AC, oil temp gauge on the dash cluster, and clutch switch are either non-functional, or not working fully. The AC is non-functional, the Haltech doesn't receive the signal from the switch to engage. The oil temp gauge is non-functional, the Haltech receives temp info from the sensor, but doesn't relay it to the dash. The clutch switch appears partially functional, I'm able to start the car (push button), but while cruise control is on, the clutch does not cancel cruise, the Haltech does not see a state change in the clutch switch. We know the kit was developed on a 2013 car, and Subaru obviously made some changes in 2017. I've reached out to Haltech, and they stated that the CAN they provide is not for Gens 1.5 and 2, and that they don't have the manpower to reverse engineer the CAN data for the later Gens. They did state that if I was able to get them a DBC file with it, that they could add it in. I started dipping my toes into figuring out how to obtain the info, but it's slow going. I found a couple threads with some individuals that seemed very knowledgeable on the CAN system, namely @timurrrr , @M0nk3y, and @ojuniour. If they or anyone would be able to assist, it would be greatly appreciated. Last edited by Misfire; 07-02-2024 at 02:50 PM. |
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#1762 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2016
Drives: 2016 Scion FRS / Chevy Colorado
Location: Ohio
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Kyle H. - #89 STX
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#1763 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
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Location: Arizona
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Your best bet is talking to GeraldJust
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#1764 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2018
Drives: Subaru BRZ 2017
Location: New Jersey
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I'll start off with making an arduino connection to the canbus port (behind the radio): https://github.com/timurrrr/RaceChronoDiyBleDevice Then get a VCI J2534 complaint cable (tactrix openport is a great choice) and the OEM diagnostic software ala techstream ( or SSM4) - You know where to find the application ![]() There are quite a few windows application that can read/intercept message (or commands) off the canbus via the diy arduin-built device. Bestr arduino with already built can trasceiver would be CANduino v4: https://www.tindie.com/products/mass...-with-can-bus/ All you have to do is just connect the High and low canbus wire.. pretty straight forward. -(so you can basically skip most the steps from timurrr build). let me know if you need any further help. also the canbus data between the first and gen second gen should be practically thesame quite honestly..Unless maybe the can frame has different identifier..idk |
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