Installing a Ford GT500 'Heat Extractor' hood vent

[BuffDriver]

I've got an Edelbrock E-force Supercharger on top of my 2016 BRZ engine (putting out 280 WHP on a 90 degree day which makes the BRZ 'JUST RIGHT' as a daily driver and track car) and going out of the engine is a FT86Speedfactory UEL catted header...

...and the problem I have had is the pipes for the header are about 0.050 from the oil pan causing heat soak and during hard track driving or long duration highway driving (in West Texas it's not uncommon to be doing 85+ for over an hour [you have to be that fast to keep the semis from running over you from behind]) the oil temp gets VERY hot even though the engine water temp is "normal".

Note that I am not just guessing, I have constant engine monitoring by ECUtek's ECU-Connect plugged into my OBD2 port and have an old Nexus phone on the dash showing me all the important parameters while I'm driving. I've also got an Inovate Oil Temp/Oil Pressure dual gauge mounted in a pod on the dash too for double reliability (you can see the pod in some of the pictures).

I also have a Subaru oil/water oil cooler done as per this thread:https://www.ft86club.com/forums/show...ler+parts+list
and it helps but I also wanted to reduce the engine compartment temperature too.

Finally, I wanted to reduce the hood lift that happens when your doing high speed and an oncoming semi's (it's doing 70 or 80) pressure wave strikes you head on. it's like running into an invisible air wall!
You can see the hood flex up as that pressure enters the radiator and goes into the engine compartment!

So I looked at all the hood vents offered by the 86/FR-S/BRZ parts suppliers and wasn't very impressed. I bought the Verus Engineering Hood Louver Kit, 'small' with rain guards but when it got here it didn't satisfy me. (I guess I'll sell them).


Exploring all the other possibilities including a new CF Sebon VS style hood - although that was just too much money for something that might not work effectively.
I ran across the Ford Shelby Cobra GT500 Heat Extractor hood vent and thought "AAh, that's an elegant solution!" Able to be positioned in the optimum low pressure zone on the hood and big enough to vent heat and pressure yet fairly good looking too.


I did have to cut some of the braces but I then fabricated some 'dropped' braces to fit under the new hood vent to regain the lost strength.


update: I worked for FOUR hours trying to post the pictures... resized them to less than 1300 pixels wide, then uploaded them to Imgur so I could get the URL's but nothing worked to get the pictures to show, sigh.
maybe tomorrow


here? http://imgur.com/gallery/XS8v80m
Then click on the green ball with a 'P' on the middle right side and it'll show a menu... click on the 'Posts' on the menu and then the picture that shows up takes you to the gallery. This is the last time I try this picture posting, too much trouble

[scottman]

The imgur link doesn't work, but that is a great looking style of hood vent.
I'd like to see it installed and I hope you're able to figure out the image uploading part.

Also, possibly look into the heat reflective gold tapes for your oil pan.

[LimitedSlip]

Originally Posted by BuffDriver

I worked for FOUR hours trying to post the pictures... resized them to less than 1300 pixels wide

If it takes more than about two minutes to post a picture on this forum you're doing something wrong.

Use "Fast Image Resizer" to do what the name implies:

http://adionsoft.net/fastimageresize/



Then click on the paper clip in the advanced editor to upload your pictures directly to this forum:

[Wally86]

I bought the Verus Engineering Hood Louver Kit, 'small' with rain guards but when it got here it didn't satisfy me. (I guess I'll sell them).

Without even trying them?

[Dadhawk]

Originally Posted by LimitedSlip

Use "Fast Image Resizer" to do what the name implies:

You can also use Paint in Windows. Resize is on the Home toolbar, change to pixels. I usually reduce them to 1024x760 or whatever the closest ratio to that is.

[NoHaveMSG]

Put a real oil cooler on your car if you are tracking it and driving it hard.

What about the Verus vents did you not like? I run the Driveway Labs GT hood duct and am quite happy with it. You do need to cut away quite a bit of the hood bracing to make it fit. I don't really notice the flimsiness unless I check for it.

https://drivewaylabs.com/collections/subaru-brz

[BuffDriver]

Originally Posted by Wally86

Without even trying them?

Yes because to try them would have required cutting the hood and then any other vents wouldn't have fit if I decided to change. I just didn't care for how they are stamped with the vanes connecting to the frame. they are functional but ugggly.

[BuffDriver]

Originally Posted by NoHaveMSG

Put a real oil cooler on your car if you are tracking it and driving it hard.

What about the Verus vents did you not like? I run the Driveway Labs GT hood duct and am quite happy with it. You do need to cut away quite a bit of the hood bracing to make it fit. I don't really notice the flimsiness unless I check for it.

https://drivewaylabs.com/collections/subaru-brz

I HAD a 'real' oil cooler on the car mounted in front of the radiator but when you install an Edelbrock supercharger the radiator for it goes in front of everything else and they recommend that no oil cooler be put in front of that. So it was removed.
Since the water pump for the SC cooling system is mounted in the cavity behind the right side running light that alternate location for an oil cooling radiator is taken up too. I COULD have removed the windshields wiper fluid tank on the left side and used that space but for a daily driver that was out for obvious reasons, windshields get dirty and I use the fluid frequently.
After an exhaustive search for solutions the oil/water cooler was all that was left. I even considered remote mounting the oil cooler at the rear of the car with a fan and ducting in the trunk but the pressure drop from line loss (so now you need an oil scavenger pump too???) becomes excessive and the engine already has oil supply problems at peak HP so that was out.



Note that there's not enough room to put any insulation, even a foil between the header and sump, I've tried several brands.

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by BuffDriver

I HAD a 'real' oil cooler on the car mounted in front of the radiator but when you install an Edelbrock supercharger the radiator for it goes in front of everything else and they recommend that no oil cooler be put in front of that. So it was removed.
Since the water pump for the SC cooling system is mounted in the cavity behind the right side running light that alternate location for an oil cooling radiator is taken up too. I COULD have removed the windshields wiper fluid tank on the left side and used that space but for a daily driver that was out for obvious reasons, windshields get dirty and I use the fluid frequently.
After an exhaustive search for solutions the oil/water cooler was all that was left. I even considered remote mounting the oil cooler at the rear of the car with a fan and ducting in the trunk but the pressure drop from line loss (so now you need an oil scavenger pump too???) becomes excessive and the engine already has oil supply problems at peak HP so that was out.



Note that there's not enough room to put any insulation, even a foil between the header and sump, I've tried several brands.

This is what the Edelbrock guys I have come across run. Pretty common solution across the board that can handle track duty. Those forester setups are not really worth a shit once you have modded the car substantially and drive it hard.

https://www.counterspacegarage.com/j...gt86-scion-frs

[BuffDriver]

OK, I figured it out with the advice. But I didn't have an 'upload' button in attachments at first which is why I tried to go with copied URL's. It turned out to be a settings change on my computer ungrayed the Upload button.

[BuffDriver]

Originally Posted by NoHaveMSG

This is what the Edelbrock guys I have come across run. Pretty common solution across the board that can handle track duty. Those forester setups are not really worth a shit once you have modded the car substantially and drive it hard.

https://www.counterspacegarage.com/j...gt86-scion-frs

Yes, I should have gone with the Jackson radiator but thought it was too expensive and by cheaping out ended up with a less than satisfactory solution that has cost just as much in the Foster cooler + all the installation hardware and labor costs.



Interestingly enough there were some problems with the water cooling of the SC affecting the tune response and after several dyno sessions we fixed that by adding a surge tank to the system. I understand the engineering goal of having the least water in the SC cooling system so it responds fast but the temp spikes were a problem . Adding a surge tank evened it out and IAT actually runs cooler. Higher volume pump too of course, the Edelbrock pump supplied wasn't enough and it failed after 8 months anyway. DD Performance Research of Sealy Texas is doing the tank n pump upgrade kit this was the prototype for.

[churchx]

Hmm, interesting. What i like in this, that it gives off more OE look then some other aftermarket vents. Also that you didn't cut thoroughly but left those structural ribs there.

[YamahaR86]

It's my understanding is that the forester oil mod you did doesn't really cool the oil, just makes it warm up a bit faster.


I went turbo and my temps were around 205+F normally. Installed a mishimoto oil cooler and temps dropped 40F. When I'm pushing it it almost never goes over 200F and this is in Florida's temp range whichi s 93's lately.

[BuffDriver]

Originally Posted by YamahaR86

It's my understanding is that the forester oil mod you did doesn't really cool the oil, just makes it warm up a bit faster.


I went turbo and my temps were around 205+F normally. Installed a mishimoto oil cooler and temps dropped 40F. When I'm pushing it it almost never goes over 200F and this is in Florida's temp range whichi s 93's lately.

And that would probably be true for me too EXCEPT that the header is almost touching the oil pan and THAT'S where my oil heating is evidently coming from. I wonder if all headers from FT8Speedfactory are like that or if theres something wrong with mine? But it's the header I've got....


I could remove the header and reinstall the OEM one which is both further away from the pan of course and shielded to boot to solve the heat problem (expecting a 'slight' change in performance and having to tweak the tune due to the change). The UEL header was installed during the brief period the car was NA but I like the sound of my exhaust system and was trying to 'fix' the problem without changing it. FYI - I had it all White Lightning ceramic coated, header to muffler before I installed it and that's held up for 3 1/2 years, good stuff.


Or even replace it with a different header (catted, since I'm trying to keep it emissions legal)


It's all about choices and deciding which path to take but it all ends up throwing more good money after money, after previous money. Welcome to 'racecar because racecar' . Lots of hindsight going on too.


Evolution: I've got a Phantom Electric SC kit sitting on my shelf that I tried for a bit before I went to the Edelbrock, a great unit that actually worked great for a daily driver vehicle to give bursts of power (5 PSI boost for 20 seconds, then a couple minutes recovery) but I wanted/needed longer duration pulls more rapidly so I moved on.