HKS Supercharger owners thread

[Grady]

The HKS is probably the best looking SC kit. Was not an easy decision not to go that route.

[wbradley]

The V1 setup is probably the least pretty and the most raw with the mushroom intake.

Mine has the intake restrictor deleted and an oversized intercooler. In fact there is no space for an oil cooler, so it is behind the intercooler.

Will be looking to purchase new oil lines, AN fittings and thermostatic sandwich plate this year.

[Kylebrz]

so for anyone that has a hks v3 kit or even any other hks kits make sure your diverter valve is working perfect cause i have traced my failed supercharger to that.
it wasn't opening all the way! turns out the diaphragm had a little tiny crack in the rubber causing a small vacuum leak that wouldn't allow it to open all the way!!!
it must have been like this a few months after i got the kit new. anyways if the valve doesn't open all the way it causes the compressor to surge and put a ton of stress on the charger and in the end the annulus will strip out! and then bam fucked!.
so one way to know its not working properly is to pull the hose that is attached to the intake off and see if the diverter valve is open full on idle!.
should be blowing air out like a leaf blower. and another tell tale sign is you will hear a flutter sound. I'm just letting everyone on here know thats what my failure was cause by and as of now i have heard 3 other kits with the valve issue and also in the end a stripped annulus. its a easy fix i just bought a bicycle inner tube patch kit and used the vulcanizing cement to seal it back up.
car is running a 100 times better and will keep an eye on this issue.

[Kylebrz]

Originally Posted by Kylebrz

so for anyone that has a hks v3 kit or even any other hks kits make sure your diverter valve is working perfect cause i have traced my failed supercharger to that.
it wasn't opening all the way! turns out the diaphragm had a little tiny crack in the rubber causing a small vacuum leak that wouldn't allow it to open all the way!!!
it must have been like this a few months after i got the kit new. anyways if the valve doesn't open all the way it causes the compressor to surge and put a ton of stress on the charger and in the end the annulus will strip out! and then bam fucked!.
so one way to know its not working properly is to pull the hose that is attached to the intake off and see if the diverter valve is open full on idle!.
should be blowing air out like a leaf blower. and another tell tale sign is you will hear a flutter sound. I'm just letting everyone on here know thats what my failure was cause by and as of now i have heard 3 other kits with the valve issue and also in the end a stripped annulus. its a easy fix i just bought a bicycle inner tube patch kit and used the vulcanizing cement to seal it back up.
car is running a 100 times better and will keep an eye on this issue.

Here are some pics of what it looks like now the last one was from the fall

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[weederr33]

Originally Posted by Kylebrz

so for anyone that has a hks v3 kit or even any other hks kits make sure your diverter valve is working perfect cause i have traced my failed supercharger to that.
it wasn't opening all the way! turns out the diaphragm had a little tiny crack in the rubber causing a small vacuum leak that wouldn't allow it to open all the way!!!
it must have been like this a few months after i got the kit new. anyways if the valve doesn't open all the way it causes the compressor to surge and put a ton of stress on the charger and in the end the annulus will strip out! and then bam fucked!.
so one way to know its not working properly is to pull the hose that is attached to the intake off and see if the diverter valve is open full on idle!.
should be blowing air out like a leaf blower. and another tell tale sign is you will hear a flutter sound. I'm just letting everyone on here know thats what my failure was cause by and as of now i have heard 3 other kits with the valve issue and also in the end a stripped annulus. its a easy fix i just bought a bicycle inner tube patch kit and used the vulcanizing cement to seal it back up.
car is running a 100 times better and will keep an eye on this issue.

So you're saying that all the reliability issues people have had with the supercharger unit failing are because of a simple rubber gasket or valve? (I'm not entirely sure what the diverter valve is...).

[Kylebrz]

Originally Posted by weederr33

So you're saying that all the reliability issues people have had with the supercharger unit failing are because of a simple rubber gasket or valve? (I'm not entirely sure what the diverter valve is...).

Well from the few failures I have seen I traced it back to a hole in the diaphragm which caused huge pressure sure on the compressor and also a vacuum leak just giving a heads up for you guys

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[wbradley]

Hmmm on the V1 kit the recirculating valve is inside the bumper, pain in the ass to remove for inspection.

What are telltale symptoms?

Is the valve not closing fully (leaking boost)?

My kid busted my tablet and I can't seem to calibrate the boost gauge in Torque on my phone. It shows -22 at idle and when revving climbs to -10 psi thereabouts. Defintely wrong. I can tell that I am getting boost, just not sure if I am hitting targets or leaking somewhere.

Perhaps if I knew what idle vacuum is I could just do the math.

[Kylebrz]

Originally Posted by wbradley

Hmmm on the V1 kit the recirculating valve is inside the bumper, pain in the ass to remove for inspection.

What are telltale symptoms?

Is the valve not closing fully (leaking boost)?

My kid busted my tablet and I can't seem to calibrate the boost gauge in Torque on my phone. It shows -22 at idle and when revving climbs to -10 psi thereabouts. Defintely wrong. I can tell that I am getting boost, just not sure if I am hitting targets or leaking somewhere.

Perhaps if I knew what idle vacuum is I could just do the math.

Hey Warren yea so the valve actually just stays shut and when the vacuum is suppose to pull the valve open but with a hole in it it can't open so all that boost pressure gets pushed back onto the compressor wheel cause the shaft to break of the annular to strip

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[Kylebrz]

Originally Posted by wbradley

Hmmm on the V1 kit the recirculating valve is inside the bumper, pain in the ass to remove for inspection.

What are telltale symptoms?

Is the valve not closing fully (leaking boost)?

My kid busted my tablet and I can't seem to calibrate the boost gauge in Torque on my phone. It shows -22 at idle and when revving climbs to -10 psi thereabouts. Defintely wrong. I can tell that I am getting boost, just not sure if I am hitting targets or leaking somewhere.

Perhaps if I knew what idle vacuum is I could just do the math.

Oh and also if you have the oem map sensor it only reads boost to 5psi then its velocity tuned after that I also have factory map I need to get my hands on a 3bar

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[Grady]

Originally Posted by Grady;30516h74

The HKS is probably the best looking SC kit. Was not an easy decision not to go that route.

And now I remember why I did not go with this kit. Almost every page on this thread someone is talking about a failure of some sort.

[Kylebrz]

Originally Posted by Grady

And now I remember why I did not go with this kit. Almost every page on this thread someone is talking about a failure of some sort.

The kit makes good power I just think they could have done a better job on quality control of the diverter valve diaphragm

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[wbradley]

Mine's running great for now. Absolutely minimal traction at rear wheels when shifting at 4500 RPM lol.
I am treating it as a power enhancement in moderation. I won't push it, keep from revving high and make sure for example that throttle fully off when pressing clutch. My gut feeling was the annulus threads were loaded by high RPM and possibly quick rev climb as might occur with pressing clutch while throttle engaged or just neutral revving. Even more so if you have a lightweight crank pulley. Also the traction fluid needs to be proper viscosity based on average driving temperatures in your area. There's thicker stuff for hot climates and thinner stuff for cold climate use. People that store their vehicle in the winter will want to use the thicker summer stuff if the temps will be warm to hot during driving season. But if you drive in freezing temps with the thicker fluid that might also put extra load on the annulus thread.

I suppose pressure against the compressor creating resistance is going to "overscrew" the threads.

[define198]

Originally Posted by Kylebrz

Well from the few failures I have seen I traced it back to a hole in the diaphragm which caused huge pressure sure on the compressor and also a vacuum leak just giving a heads up for you guys

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from the s2000 side i believe also mine failed due to the BOV not properly working, i had surge for 6 months before i changed to a tial BOV, but the charger still failed 5 months or so later, my friend with the surge who did not fix it his charger also died.

if the new one dies this time, then its obviously not the compressor surge, BUT i am doing very very limited mileage anyway these days

[Kylebrz]

Originally Posted by define198

from the s2000 side i believe also mine failed due to the BOV not properly working, i had surge for 6 months before i changed to a tial BOV, but the charger still failed 5 months or so later, my friend with the surge who did not fix it his charger also died.

if the new one dies this time, then its obviously not the compressor surge, BUT i am doing very very limited mileage anyway these days

Yea yours should be good if the spring rate is the same as the hks Bov.

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