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Old 06-30-2021, 12:31 PM   #15
blsfrs
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If it grinds when you try to put in reverse then the clutch is not disengaging. If you haven't already, replace the master and clutch slave cylinders. There is also the possibility of a bad clutch fork or pivot.
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Old 07-06-2021, 01:29 PM   #16
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I have exact issue with mine too
I have southbend stage 2 clutch
I also have white posive shift and transmission bushing? (I have both anyway)
as well as mtec shift spring

back to the topic, i flushed both transmission fluid and differential fluid but still issue there.

I heard that aftermarket clutch has most of this issues so i just kinda gave up and live with it.

if you stop and couldnt engage into gear, press clutch pedal then wait 3~5 seconds then shift into 1st then it should go in.
i also just shift into 1st when car nearly comes at stop then gear goes in really well
then take out to neutral

i know it's annoying but i also would like to know its solution
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Old 07-06-2021, 05:09 PM   #17
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also check that clutch Fork yo! if its bending or the pivot is poking into it your TOB isn't putting enough force on the pressure plate. Did you take a look at the fork during the clutch change
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Old 07-07-2021, 07:30 PM   #18
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I'm having the same exact symptoms. When they first started, the clutch soft line was oily so I thought it was a leak. Replaced the line and bled it, no dice. Replaced slave cylinder, no dice.

I have a 2015 BRZ at about 100K with about 40K on an ACT XT street clutch. Replaced the shift fork and pivot with the verus ones when I did the clutch about a year and a half ago. Everything seems fine at a roll, but reverse, first, and second are usually impossible from a stop.

I've even figured out the same trick with getting it to barely move with third, and then quickly switching to first, so as not to embarrass myself with my POS, fire-breathing, overly-loud, turbo BRZ.

The clutch system is not very complicated and I'm not really sure what else it can be beside a bad clutch/pressure plate, somehow my new(ish) clutch fork is failing, the ACT TOB has bent/deformed, or (most expensive case) synchros are failing.

I have not yet adjusted the lockout plate like some have suggested. I'll check it out, but find it hard to believe it's going to solve this.

I also made a similar post where a few folks suggested that the ACT clutch is to blame, but it appears some of you are having the same issue with other brands.

Please help. My wife is already asking when I'm going to take it to a "real mechanic".

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Old 07-08-2021, 03:50 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zberz View Post
I'm having the same exact symptoms. When they first started, the clutch soft line was oily so I thought it was a leak. Replaced the line and bled it, no dice. Replaced slave cylinder, no dice.

I have a 2015 BRZ at about 100K with about 40K on an ACT XT street clutch. Replaced the shift fork and pivot with the verus ones when I did the clutch about a year and a half ago. Everything seems fine at a roll, but reverse, first, and second are usually impossible from a stop.

I've even figured out the same trick with getting it to barely move with third, and then quickly switching to first, so as not to embarrass myself with my POS, fire-breathing, overly-loud, turbo BRZ.

The clutch system is not very complicated and I'm not really sure what else it can be beside a bad clutch/pressure plate, somehow my new(ish) clutch fork is failing, the ACT TOB has bent/deformed, or (most expensive case) synchros are failing.

I have not yet adjusted the lockout plate like some have suggested. I'll check it out, but find it hard to believe it's going to solve this.

I also made a similar post where a few folks suggested that the ACT clutch is to blame, but it appears some of you are having the same issue with other brands.

Please help. My wife is already asking when I'm going to take it to a "real mechanic".

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
i also have verus fork and pivot as well
i have southbend stage 2 clutch and oem flywheel

people are saying aftermarket clutch is the problem and oem clutch does not give this problem which is hard to believe you mentioned this is not rocket science

I previously replaced transmission fluid and differential flud with motul (doesnt solve problem)
I re-adjusted my gear location (metal plate when you shift into reverse, little better but problem still there)

as mentioned, i just gave up what to do and live with it
I usually put into 1st gear when i nearly stop at light then i take it out to neutral then it doesn't give me hard time engage into 1st gear again (not 100% time but i will say 90% time)

this doesn't happen when car starts right up
it happens after driving for little while
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Old 07-09-2021, 07:32 AM   #20
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I had this same issue with my 2014. It was with the stock clutch. It started with not being able to get it into first gear. I would go to second and then it would go to first. It progressed to not being able to get into first or 2nd. I would need to let the clutch out a little to get things in the trans moving to get it into gear at a stop light. Car had 44k miles. Many of those miles were on the track. Mine would also be fine when the car was cold. I ended up putting the stock suspension back on and selling to CarMax.

My "opinion" based on the symptoms is that this is an internal transmission problem. The 1-2 syncro is failing.

It may be worth changing the trans fluid and using 1 quart of Pennzoil Syncromesh fluid. I don't recall if I tried that on my BRZ or not but I have used in in several other cars and it has improved the shifting feel.
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Old 07-27-2021, 12:56 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zc06_kisstherain View Post
I have exact issue with mine too
I have southbend stage 2 clutch
I also have white posive shift and transmission bushing? (I have both anyway)
as well as mtec shift spring

back to the topic, i flushed both transmission fluid and differential fluid but still issue there.

I heard that aftermarket clutch has most of this issues so i just kinda gave up and live with it.

if you stop and couldnt engage into gear, press clutch pedal then wait 3~5 seconds then shift into 1st then it should go in.
i also just shift into 1st when car nearly comes at stop then gear goes in really well
then take out to neutral

i know it's annoying but i also would like to know its solution
Yea im learning to live with it for sure, this was the weird confusing thing though...

I lifted up my car and did the whiteline positive shift and transmission bushing install and I also removed the master cylinder to try and open it up and clean it out, but I couldn't find the right tools so I just reinstalled it.
Afterwards I went to a parking lot to just go into the problem gears (R/1/2) from a standstill in neutral, and I couldn't replicate the problem at all so I thought it was all fixed it. And even in normal driving, even from a cold start, the issue was completely gone and I was driving it like it was normal again.

This lasted about 3 days till the issue came back again and was just as bad as before, basically like half the time I came to a full stop in nuetral it was either hard to go in gear or impossible.

So it felt like something was 'fixed' for a few days since I was actively trying to get it to lock me out but it wouldn't.

My thoughts so far are this (if any of these don't make sense let me know):
-Clutch fork: If it was bent I could see this causing the issue but I would think it would do it all the time, not sporadically.
-Synchronizers: The problem occurred all at once so unless the reverse, 1st and second gear sychros all started failing at the same time then I don't see this making sense, plus theres never grinding when I put it in gear, just total lockout from a stop.
-Clutch/Pressure plate: I've done the test where I rev it while in gear while holding the clutch and I don't think it's dragging but with how sporadic it is maybe I need to test that some more. But the idea that it is sticking or dragging randomly would make sense. Again though, for almost a year it was flawless and all at once theres a problem so idk how it would happen since I don't launch it or shift like a maniac.
-Master/Slave: Idk how I would test these but I've flushed the fluid and maybe they're going out but I've seen here that other people with the same symptoms didn't see any change from replacing these but I still think it's worth a try (way easier than dropping the trans and inspecting/replacing anything in there). Also could an upgraded stainless clutch line could help, has anyone tried that?
-Linkage?: I've already messed with the lockout plate but idk what else I can do with the linkage or what could've went wrong with it. I've inspected it and seemed fine from the outside but could make sense, if anyone has suggestions on this let me know.
-Bushings: Got the whiteline positive shift kit and perrin trans bushing. Dude here said something about deflection which seemed to make sense, I know when I'm locked out and I try to bump it into gear (I don't force it but sometimes it's just notchy), sometimes it'll make a thud sound from the back of the car (to be clear the thud is when I cannot get it into gear), might be irrelevant but idk.

Last edited by J52; 07-27-2021 at 01:46 PM.
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Old 07-27-2021, 09:30 AM   #22
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I have found a new technique that works pretty well all the time, when I can't get into first. Basically, nudge the stick TWICE as you're getting it into 1st when rolling to a stop. Just simply moving the stick a little bit towards first (but not putting it in) slows down something still rotating in the transmission. You know what I mean because it will sometimes kick back at you if you force it into 1st while its still spinning. No need to wait several seconds or clutching in-out to get it into 1st.

@J52 you might need to step up to the positive traction kit to fix the rest of the driveline lash.
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Old 08-05-2021, 07:07 PM   #23
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I have a similar problem, and my car is a 16 all stock with only 25k. It seems that the internals just don't stop spinning for a long time after clutch in, and it is a design problem with this transmission. Maybe it just has a very poor quality pilot bearing.



I improved it quite a bit by adjusting the clutch pedal to have more travel. Otherwise, I can either push the clutch in and wait several seconds, or tap the shifter toward first a couple times before it drops in. Its a very annoying flaw for a car that was designed specifically to be fun to drive. I would think that a lightweight clutch would also help.
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Old 08-05-2021, 10:41 PM   #24
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@conehead we're definitely on the same page here

@J52 I adjusted my clutch actuation point last week and it got rid of some of these issues. I only needed to adjust it a half-turn and 1st and 2nd are easier to get into, and also got rid of some annoying vibration sounds. Also did the clutch-spring removal, definitely a good mod too.
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Old 08-10-2021, 09:36 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by conehead View Post
I have a similar problem, and my car is a 16 all stock with only 25k. It seems that the internals just don't stop spinning for a long time after clutch in, and it is a design problem with this transmission. Maybe it just has a very poor quality pilot bearing.



I improved it quite a bit by adjusting the clutch pedal to have more travel. Otherwise, I can either push the clutch in and wait several seconds, or tap the shifter toward first a couple times before it drops in. Its a very annoying flaw for a car that was designed specifically to be fun to drive. I would think that a lightweight clutch would also help.
I thought only aftermarket clutch have this kind of issue but stock also?? jeez
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Old 08-13-2021, 11:51 PM   #26
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@conehead we're definitely on the same page here

@J52 I adjusted my clutch actuation point last week and it got rid of some of these issues. I only needed to adjust it a half-turn and 1st and 2nd are easier to get into, and also got rid of some annoying vibration sounds. Also did the clutch-spring removal, definitely a good mod too.
@radroach
Yea I was messing with clutch actuation and when I set the pedal high I can tell it's better. Like with normal clutch pedal height, when I am locked out of gear with the clutch pressed in I can hear a rubbing sound, like the clutch not disengaging and still lightly touching. And as soon as I set the clutch pedal to have a longer throw/higher engagement point (clutch pedal visibly higher than the brake pedal, I think like 3 or 4 full rotations of the CMC rod), I can't replicate the sound and I don't get locked out, but the high engagement point feels and drives terribly, but it does seem to help a lot. Anything less than 3 rotations for me still gets a lock out sometimes. I could get used to it but I wish there was a better solution, but at least I'm getting closer to a fix. Wish I could like shorten the CMC rod just a little so I can have a better clutch pedal position but still have the benefits of the press being longer.
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Old 08-21-2021, 07:31 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zberz View Post
I have a 2015 BRZ at about 100K with about 40K on an ACT XT street clutch. Replaced the shift fork and pivot with the verus ones when I did the clutch about a year and a half ago. Everything seems fine at a roll, but reverse, first, and second are usually impossible from a stop.

I have not yet adjusted the lockout plate like some have suggested. I'll check it out, but find it hard to believe it's going to solve this.

I have the same clutch, fork and pivot. It sounds like the lockout plate is your issue. I haven't had this issue with mine but then again I only have like 5k miles on it and I marked the plate before removing it.
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Old 08-21-2021, 02:24 PM   #28
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I have the same clutch, fork and pivot. It sounds like the lockout plate is your issue. I haven't had this issue with mine but then again I only have like 5k miles on it and I marked the plate before removing it.
Plate only does minimum play on this issue. I even adjusted my plate hoping that this issue.
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